Heeeeeeeere we go! (Fiona's 2011/2012 Service Project)

Discussion in 'Classic Mini' started by ImagoX, Nov 29, 2011.

  1. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    #1 ImagoX, Nov 29, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2011
    (((deep breath)))...

    OK, guys, Fiona's up for the winter... I have most of my parts on order... It's time to get greasy.

    Listed below is the stuff I want/need to accomplish this winter. I'll be posting updates and pics here as I work, and doubtless be asking a zillion-and-a-half questions if (when) I get stuck.

    So far, here's my list, but if the ring test fails, as noted below this will go from a moderately-complicated set of tasks I hope to complete over a few weekends to a full-blown engine removal job.

    Pray for me... :lol:

    FIONA's 2011/2012 WINTER OVERHAUL:

    • Remove head for valve service (new guides, etc.) ** DONE on 12/3
    • Replace head gasket, fuel pump gasket, and thermostat gasket (need fuel pump gasket - have rest)
    • Perform manual "oil in cylinder" ring leak test using 10W-40 motor oil
    • (If the leak test fails, the entire block will need to be pulled out for new rings and probably piston bushings - if this happens, I'll also do a new clutch while the engine's out of the car. Hope I won't have to...)
    • Remove radiator - clean rust and paint hi-gloss black ** PULLED on 12/3 - beginning scrub-down for paint
    • Replace/renew plastic radiator fan (possibly with metal "tropical" version) ** PULLED on 12/3
    • Check electric secondary fan (currently held on with zip-ties due to tin worm incursion)
    • Check all radiator hoses and renew as required ** PULLED on 12/3
    • Remove carb and measure for proper K&N fitment. Clean and polish while off the car. Adjust as needed.
    • Replace valve cover gasket
    • Re-polish valve cover (scratched from choke cable) and re-run cables to better position
    • Check wiring - main headlamp circuit is flaky. When circuit is solid, replace old headlamps with new high-output units and new 3-way cabin switch (have parts)
    • Remove all un-necessary wiring/relays from SPI
    • Replace coil (broken terminal) - possibly upgrade ** PULLED on 12/3
    • Check points - believe I may have electronic ignition since I've never adjusted or replaced points in over 20k miles of operation over multiple years)
    • Replace spark plugs ** PULLED on 12/3 - color looks good and even on all 4 cylinders
    • Replace any gasket that's leaking - rod change oil seal for sure, but possibly others
    • Clean and de-grease engine block - paint if possible
    • If block is painted, paint head as well in matching color when back from machine shop
    • Detail engine bay best possible with block still in place, including clean or replace all dingy yellow reservoirs
    • Replace main engine steady dogbone bushings (need parts)
    • Install new secondary engine steady on thermostat mounting point **STUCK on 12/3 - the bolts that hold the plate where the firewall end of the stready goes won't come out.
    • Remove old 90's style gauges and replace with proper center-mount binnacle (have parts)
    • Update lighting in center binnacle to super-bright LEDs
    • Fit oil pressure gauge to block and connect to new binnacle (have parts)
    • Check all wiring and tidy as appropriate
    • Re-install cylinder head, radiator, belts, wiring, etc. Adjust valves. Check and adjust timing.
    • Remove fried catalytic converter, replace with straight-through pipe and have muffler shop adjust exhaust pipe drop in center channel (hanging too low)
    • Replace muffler with cat-back center-mount system (need parts)
    • Replace cracked windshield and surround trim (have trim - need to order glass after engine work is complete or nearing completion).
    • Wash up. Drive car. Smile a lot.
     
  2. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Better get off the computer & start a wrenchin. :wink:
     
  3. Redbeard

    Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!
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    I'm a fan of the last bullet point. :D Sounds like one heck of a project. Good luck sir.
     
  4. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    Sounds like a weekend of fun ! !


    :D
     
  5. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    Nothing like a little light maintenance work to keep you warm on a cold winter's night.
     
  6. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    12/3 UPDATE...

    Got the head out - no issues. Ended up pulling the entire radiator (figured I would) since mine is a new model with no drain plug. I'm tempted to replace it with a more modern unit WITH a plug and an extra core for better cooling, along with a metal-blade "tropical" fan. It's louder, I know, but cools better.

    Carb is off, as is exhaust manifold. The carb needs cleaning BAD - I brought it home to work on in the basement. I noticed the exhaust pipe bracket is cracked (probably from the engine moving around because of the bad steady bushings) so I might just end up swapping the entire exhaust for a Maniflow (I think it's called) unit in stainless for no-hassles convenience. It's just money, right? (Sigh)...

    Didn't even bother with wiring or other stuff - I was just thrilled to have the head off in the first go.

    The cylinder walls feel totally smooth below the "ring groove" with no scarring/marring/scratches. The valves look to be the right color and look flat (yay). I'm gonna clean up the head and take it over to the machine shop possibly after Xmas for new guides and seals and to have everything looked over. I also got a performance rocker bar in with my kit (thanks, Paul!) that I'll have them use when they rebuild everything.

    The business ends of the rockers look discolored, as if from heat - does anyone know if the rocker arms were in fact heat-treated for strength on the later-model Mini 1275s or did they get cooked when I almost overheated the car a few years back (ran out of radiator fluid... don't ask). I'll have them take a look but I was wondering.

    Other than that, all is going according to plan with no major frustrations. Wish me continued good fortune.

    And now what you've all been waiting for... the pics:
    2daa1145.jpg
    Removing the head studs in proper order (note Haynes' Big Book of Lies on fender...)

    14f3fca5.jpg
    Head bolts loosened - ready to commence hammering!

    df7f159c.jpg
    A few brisk whacks from a dead-blow mallet and... success!! Great White Hunter and his prey...

    4bfe3a74.jpg
    Piston topzzz!!!! Toasty! Mungy! Must resist urge to start polishing at this stage (my friend the mechanic recommends Scotchbrite wheels and brake fluid - we'll see).

    0898ed8c.jpg
    Post-op recovery.

    NEXT STEPS:

    • Drop off head at machine shop
    • Begin cleaning up radiator surround, thermostat bitz and other bric-a-brac in prep for powder coating
    • Order new radiator, hoses, bushings, throttle/choke cables, coil, and other schtuff.
    • Boil carb in Pine-sol and clean/polish (fugly as all get-out).
    • Learn cost of new exhaust system and no doubt faint
    • Clean and polish bright bits (valve cover, coil cover, etc)
    • Order proper air cleaner parts
    • Consider whether or not I'm really going to pull the rest of the block out for painting/clutch/oil leak sealing, etc. I'm about 70/30 in favor ATM.
     
  7. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    I like your cheater bar. I have few of those myself.

    Congrats on a good start Matt. :cornut:
     
  8. KittyMini

    KittyMini Club Coordinator

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    Good luck!
    Thanks for the process info and pics :Thumbsup:
     
  9. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Decided to pull the rest of the block... Pray for me. Not sure if this can be done with the head off or if I'll have to wait for it to be re-installed - checking on some forums.

    If anyone is in Central Ohio and is interested in participating in the tear-down, see HERE - the more the merrier.

    Hopefully I can find someone with a hoist. :)

    Off to look at parts! Many, many parts... Oi.
     
  10. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Of course you can pull it with the head off. Much lighter that way.

    Rent a cherry picker from the local rental shop. You'll have it out in less time than it took me to type this.
     
  11. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Sweet. Do you know all the various gaskets I'll need to sort all my leaks? I already have new head, fuel pump, thermostat, exhaust manifold, rod-change oil seal, and rocker cover gaskets but what about all the rest?
     
  12. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Just me, but I would replace every gasket you have access to. Might as well do them all while you are there.
     
  13. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Besides the list below, what should I be looking at? I already have gaskets for:

    Cylinder Head
    Fuel Pump
    Thermostat
    Rod-Change Oil Seal
    Rocker Cover
    Exhaust manifold

    I also plan to replace the CV boots (Paul helped me replace a blown one a few years ago but the other is God-only-knows how old) and re-pack the bearings. Anything else of a linkage-type variety I should be thinking about? What about motor mount bushings or similar? I already have bushings for the engine steady dog-bone AND a secondary steady that bolts to the base of the thermostat (if I can get the %$#@! fasteners off the mounting plate on the firewall). :mad2:

    I also need some sort of clutch kit - does anyone know of a nice already-assembled kit, or must I order piecemeal? I know I need new plates and the wear items that connect the controls to the actual engine but I don't know the specifics.

    Thanks!
     
  14. paulsminis

    paulsminis New Member

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    Matt,

    If you are going to be at the breakfast Saturday the 17th, let me know and I can supply you with a spare "tropical fan" if you so desire....from my personal stock of used stuff. I am proud of you taking on this job. You are going to learn lots and lots!

    Paul
     
  15. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Thanks, Paul, but I ordered a special "low profile" plastic fan already - I went with a replacement 3-core fan and it's a tad thicker than stock. That reminds me - need to drive the radiator over to the shop to have a proper drain plug braized in. :)
     
  16. paulsminis

    paulsminis New Member

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    Also, come to breakfast and I can probably answer some questions and may be able to lead you some parts if you need them. Including a clutch kit -- do you need a Verto, or regular clutch?
     
  17. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    I'm not sure - someone sent me pics of the verto/pre-verto clutches with the levers highlighted. The car's at my friend's house so I need to go over and check. :)

    Unfortunately I don't think I can make it to breakfast this week (have guests coming into town) but I *may* be able to get away early. Hope so... Thanks!!

    -M
     
  18. paulsminis

    paulsminis New Member

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    #18 paulsminis, Dec 16, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
    It's embarrassing that I don't know, as I've spent time under that bonnet. I can't see the clutch end of the engine well enough in your pictures above to see which kind you have either, drat!
     
  19. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    PRE VERTO (lever highlighted):
    preverto.jpg

    VERTO:

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Where did the freeze plugs go on the red block?
     

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