2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Spark plug heat ranges on stock vs tuned engines?

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by Systemlord, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Systemlord

    Systemlord New Member

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    I've been doing a ton of research on tuning and adding mods to improve performance in our Mini Coopers, should those of us running more boost pressures, intake and exhaust systems with/without tuned engine be using a colder plug than what originally used when you purchased your Mini?

    My thought is that I'm having pre-ignition because of excess heat leftover after the combustion process, this excess heat build-up is causing the newly air/fuel to ignite too soon causing pre-ignition periodically. That is why I'm asking this particular question regarding heat ranges of spark plugs.

    Am I correct in assuming that when replacing your spark plugs with new ones that going with a colder plug than what was originally in your MCS is the best idea?

    Thanks,
    Systemlord.
     
  2. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Tuned cars with increased boost make more heat, and typically do better with one-step-colder plugs. But this may or may not be your problem.

    In 2nd Gen cars, preignition and/or misfires are often a result of carbon buildup issues.
     
  3. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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  4. Systemlord

    Systemlord New Member

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    To date I've had the dealer walnut blast my intake runners and valves on my Mini which was pretty bad and freed up a lot of snappy torque and overall performance. The combustion chambers (top of pistons) are covered in black carbon deposits, I used a bottle of BG 44K and the pistons are starting to show the aluminum alloy color of the pistons.

    There are still more black deposits around the edge of the piston so I purchased two more bottles of BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner, I will purchase and use a bottle for every gas tank until I'm satisfied there is no more (carbon) pre-ignition. Then I will use it once a month or every other gas up.

    At first the layer of carbon on the pistons was soft and dry enough to scrape off using the tip (2mm tip) of a Steelman Bend A Light Pro through the spark plug hole. After using just one bottle the layer of carbon started clumping up together and then was completely gone after going through another tank of gas without BG 44K. Now I have a second bottle of BG 44K in there, we shall see what happens after three bottles of BG 44K.

    Does anyone know of a service offered for this kind of problem that would yield better, faster and more thorough results from some kind of service shop? I don't trust my dealer because they told me that they added something special to the tank after the walnut blasting, I don't see any indication that they did any such thing.

    I really appreciate the responses guys!
     
  5. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    A complete METH kit will cut down on that carbon but you may not want to spend that much money or mod your car that much.

    I would only run 93 octane and keep cleaning when its needed.
     
  6. Systemlord

    Systemlord New Member

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    I would indeed pay the price for 93 octane if I could locate a station in California, does the fuel system cleaner add anything that would help the combustion process be more efficient? The reason I ask is because when I was driving it today I really tried to get it to do pre-ignition by being pedal heavy when in low rpms which usually throws a bunch of gas and pressure causing pre-ignition. I'd like to buy ten cans of that BG Power Enhancer!
     
  7. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Well that sucks you can not get 93. You could try adding a few bottles of good octane booster to your tank. Since they do very little a few bottles will not hurt.
     
  8. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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  9. Systemlord

    Systemlord New Member

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  10. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    I'm not sure what the R5 means.

    What's your question?
     
  11. Systemlord

    Systemlord New Member

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    Why would a Cooper S come with JCW plugs and what are the differences between the two plugs?

     
  12. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    I do not know the exact difference between the plugs themselves but the S and the JCW are exactly the same besides the tune and JCW markup, stickers and badging.
     
  13. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    #13 Crashton, Jan 10, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
    The R53 JCW uses a sparkplug one heat range colder than the R53 Cooper S. I'm not sure about R56 heat ranges, but I'd bet a donut they would be the same. One step colder for the JCW.

    R on a plug means resistor.

    Send eMINIparts.com a PM & ask Steven.
     
  14. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    Ditto, just as a one step colder plug is recommended for a 15% or smaller pulley, possibly even 2 steps with a 19% depending on your outside influences, heat, octane & such.
    My setup calls for 2 steps colder with the possibility of even 3 depending on how everything looks and reads on the bottle.

    Here's some plug basics for anyone interested:

    How to read Racing Spark Plugs

    NGK Spark Plugs USA

    Learning Center
     
  15. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    There are some other differences between the R56 S and the fJCW....

    The S has a compression ratio of 10.5
    The fJCW has a compression ration of 10.0

    And if I remember correctly the boost level is different for the two engines but that would be dependent on the separate tunes...
     
  16. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Sorry I was just taking about R53's. :devil:
     
  17. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    Same with me, but the basics are still the same, anything to possibly change combustion chamber temps, and plug choice comes into consideration.
     

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