1st Gen R53 Cooper S New to the site and MC's, got a few questions for you guys!

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014.

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  1. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #1 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2014
    Hey everyone! I'm new to Mini Coopers, I plan on picking up an R53 Cooper S to turn into a weekend car/track car.

    I've got a few questions for you guys!

    1. What are some common issues and problems that are known to affect these cars? I mean like things that only Mini owners would really know about. For example, the E36 M3 is own to have issues with things like the differential bolt, rear shock towers breaking, VANOS rattling, that sort of thing.

    2. How much would I realistically need to spend to get about 220 WHP? I think it's intake, exhaust, pulley, (maybe) cams, and a tune.

    3. Once I get the car to 220 WHP, would it be reliable? Can the engine realistically take being beat on for hours at a track day? What about the transmission?

    4. I'm looking at a 2005 Cooper S with 107,000 miles. I assume front-end service hasn't been done. It has a 15% pulley, intake, heater core replaced. Headliner is worn out and needs to be reupholstered, and a few dents and dings. Owners says car had been involved in a fender bender, but nothing serious. Nothing visible upon quick inspection. Tires also need to be replaced pretty much immediately. What's a good offer for this car?

    I know at 100k, alot of things are going to start breaking so it might be time for some serious front-end maintenance and suspension maintenance on this car.

    5. How hard is it to DIY these cars? I've worked on my E36 and my 240SX, wasn't too hard, but judging from a few videos on the internet things seem very packed together. Doing anything pretty much requires the removal of 3-5 other parts lol, which is very different from my 240SX which can be fixed with hammers, wrenches, and swear words. (fyi I used the 240 for road course, not drifting)
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #2 Nathan, Sep 24, 2014
    Welcome, thanks for joining Motoring Alliance, the FUN and Friendly MINI Community.
     
  3. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #3 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    Yay!

    I also might be looking to become a vendor if I do make the final decision to get a Mini Cooper. I've been selling parts for over a year and a half, and if I get a Mini I would absolutely have to sell parts for the car I own!

    I'm a little worried about working on these cars though, looks like a big pain in the butt lol. I'm sure after I work on them for a little while I'd get used to it though!
     
  4. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #4 Dave.0, Sep 24, 2014
  5. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #5 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
  6. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    #6 cct1, Sep 24, 2014
    1. The list is long, unfortunately: Power steering pumps, water pump, upper engine mount, belt tensioner are common ones. There are more, but that's a start. Yes, the car is a PITA to work on, with regard to certain things--it's not that fixing something is technically difficult, but because everything is crammed in there, you have to take off like five other things to get to the one thing you need to fix. The MINI is a labor of love, but it's well worth the effort if you're die hard into the MINI like many of us are. And for what you want to do, the R53, either a 2005 or 2006, is perfect.

    2. For a RELIABLE 220 WHP, you're looking at pulley, injectors, CAI, cam, header and tune. The engine can take 220WHP, but if you're getting a high mileage car, you definitely want to do a compression/leak test before you start modding. The transmission holds up just fine at that WHP, so does the clutch, no problems there. But the clutch may need to be addressed in a high mileage car--the stock clutch will work fine at that HP, but on a car with 100k, it's probably time for a replacement. At 100k, the supercharger is probably past it's limit too. In other words, it's probably going to be cheaper in the long run to pay more up front on a lower mileage car.

    3. I hate cars that have been in accidents for track use, unless it was minor. Make absolutely sure nothing is bent in the frame or subframe, otherwise your life will be misery if you want to track it. Not as big an issue for around town, but I'd stay away from that car. I'd look for one that maybe has cosmetic issues--scratches, etc., but nothing structural. If you're patient, a good deal on a good car can be had, and it doesn't look like you need the car right away. You might even be able to find one that has the mods you want already installed and sorted out.

    If you're thinking of the track, suspension and especially brake upgrades are a must. The stock R53 brakes just don't hold up well to the beating.
     
  7. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #7 Dave.0, Sep 24, 2014
    It's just nuts and bolts so if you have the tools and the knowledge you should be fine and long as you have this...---> * a MUST HAVE is a Bently Manual. http://www.amazon.com/MINI-Cooper-Service-Manual-Convertible/dp/0837616395/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411591867&sr=8-1&keywords=2005+bentley+manual+mini[/COLOR]
     
  8. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    #8 cct1, Sep 24, 2014
    +1 on the Bentley manual, the Haynes isn't worth it IMHO.

    SuperCooper.com is a great resource on the internet, once it's up and running again, a ton of DIY's.

    So many people modify their car themselves, there are tons of videos and written faqs all over the place on damned near everything MINI.
     
  9. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #9 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    Yeah, I've got a regular daily driver so I have time to find the right car. I'm still not sure if a Mini is for me, but getting the car into Front End Service Mode wasn't as big a deal as I thought.

    IIRC it's:

    Remove wheels
    Undo fender liner
    Remove bumper cover
    Remove bumper
    Remove crash tubes
    Drain radiator
    Remove condensor
    Remove radiator and radiator support

    Unplugging things along the way
     
  10. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #10 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    You guys remind me of my old E36 community. Tons of knowledgeable, actually helpful people that love their cars and are eager to introduce new people <3
     
  11. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    #11 cct1, Sep 24, 2014
    Well, you just caught us on a good day...:devil:
     
  12. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #12 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    I looked up the cost of a power steering pump and WOW, a new one is $736 on Pelican! Even a rebuilt one from RockAuto is $400ish. Whoa!
     
  13. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #13 Dave.0, Sep 24, 2014
    :lol::lol: yeah this is funny, but so true. :ihih:
     
  14. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #14 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    So, being the nerd I am, I assembled this rather comprehensive list of parts... anything I'm missing?

    Maintenance
    Engine
    Oil change 30
    Power steering pump 500
    Timing Chain Tensioner 30
    Upper engine mount 70
    Belt tensioner 100
    Belt 15
    Belt removal tool (ebay) 40
    Supercharger Oil 30
    Fuel filter 25
    Spark plugs 40
    Total 880

    Cooling
    Water Pump 102
    Thermostat and gasket 40
    Coolant (Dealer) 30
    Lower radiator hose 30
    Upper radiator hose 20
    Expansion tank cap 12
    Mishimoto radiator 250
    Total 250

    Suspension
    Poly lower control arm bushings 86.95
    Total 86.95

    Drivetrain
    Competition Stage 2 Clutch 600
    Clutch Labor 950
    Transmission oil 30
    Total 1580
     
  15. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    #15 cct1, Sep 24, 2014
    There is a work around for the power steering pump--just bypass it. If mine went, I'd seriously consider it, since I drive mine mostly on the track.
     
  16. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #16 dsautosport, Sep 24, 2014
    Yeah but how hard does steering become at that point? It's pretty heavy even with a properly functioning pump.
     
  17. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #17 Minidave, Sep 25, 2014
    Don't buy a rebuilt pump, look around on the net and you can find new, correct pumps for a reasonable cost. However there is a factory warranty on the pump till 10 years or 150K, if the car you buy falls into the right chassis range - up to 2006 cars I believe - cars newer than the range warranted have a different pump. Cars from 2007 on are completely different - full electric steering.

    I've fixed a number of PS pumps by just blowing the carbon brush dust out of the motor and putting it back in.
     
  18. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #18 dsautosport, Sep 25, 2014
    Well that's some good news, though chances are if it fails anytime soon, those 10 years are almost up. I'll probably get a bypass kit if that's the case.
     
  19. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    #19 ZippyNH, Sep 25, 2014
    Er...warrenty is 13 years from in service date and 150,000 miles as per the letter from mini Dated may 2013....
     
  20. dsautosport

    dsautosport New Member

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    #20 dsautosport, Sep 25, 2014
    Oh that's very nice! As long as your build date is before Feb 2005.
     
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