2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Lowering springs and BOVs

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by aoifemal1, Jan 4, 2015.

  1. aoifemal1

    aoifemal1 New Member

    Feb 10, 2014
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    Hello,
    two questions:

    I am dying to lower my mini, but don't have alot to spend. Of course ideally i would prefer coilovers but dont think that can happen at the moment. Any recommendations for lowering springs, or am i just wasting my time?

    My second question is, if anyone knows of any affordable BOVs that function well


    Thanks!
     
  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Jul 31, 2009
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    What are you going after. Looks or handling? If you want it to Handel better I would get a rear sway bar first. Then some good struts and springs. I have Eiboch springs and Koni Yellows. Next I would get adjustable camber plates and adjustable rear control arms

    What year and kind of Mini?
     
  3. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Welcome to M\A but our crystal ball is broken. :lol: Could you please tell us about your car and what you are looking to do.
     
  4. aoifemal1

    aoifemal1 New Member

    Feb 10, 2014
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    ive got a 2007 cooper s. im going for looks mainly but i am always throwing my mini around corners so kind of have to go for both!
     
  5. Stefanie

    Stefanie Well-Known Member

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    If coilovers are ultimately what you want, I'd suggest just saving up longer for those and getting something you're happy with. I know of a couple R56 guys in my area who put lowering springs on their stock shocks/struts and got a ride that was a little too..."bouncy"...so they ended up buying new shocks or coilovers anyway.

    I followed the advice of a bunch of people on these forums and put Koni Yellows and Swift Spec-R springs on my Mini...gave someone a ride last week and he commented that my car "sucks the ground." I'm taking it as a compliment...hehe. ;)
     
  6. fngolfer

    fngolfer Active Member

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    NM Engineering

    I have NM engineering springs with the stock dampers and it lowered my car 1.5 inches and rides better than the stock sport suspension. $250 installed here in So.Ca.
     
  7. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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  8. nkfry

    nkfry New Member
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    Aug 12, 2013
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    As other have said, and Dave clarified on; if you are wanting coil overs save up and go right to them, but the biggest thing is to spend the money, cheap coilovers are just that. It also depends on what exactly you want from the car, do you plan on tracking the car, DD, road warrior, is ride quality an issue, and so on.

    As for BOVs, the Forge unit is the only valve we install on customer cars, there are eBay options, but the fact of quality per $$ spent comes into play again. If looks are truly what you are looking for I would recommend a cold air intake, such as DDM Works, or AEM, you will add a touch of class to the engine bay as well as getting audible boost recirc when letting off the throttle.

    DDM Works Street Intake

    DDM Works Race Intake

    AEM Race Intake

    Forge Blow Off Valve
     
  9. aoifemal1

    aoifemal1 New Member

    Feb 10, 2014
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    On to the next question. I have realized I am not gonna have the money for the type of coil overs that I'd like to I have decided to choose a different route. I am looking at the forge blow off valve. I have heard that they do not make much noise, which is what I want. Does anyone have a forge bov that would like to weigh in?

    Forge Blow off Valve - Way Motor Works
     
  10. David Mc

    David Mc New Member

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  11. Zillon

    Zillon Well-Known Member

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    David Mc - the GFB DV+ won't work on the N14 engine, unfortunately.

    FWIW, stick with the stock diverter valve - these engines perform better when you keep the air in the engine instead of venting it to the atmosphere.
     
  12. Zapski

    Zapski Well-Known Member

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    If you're looking to have a louder BOV, you could change your intake out. You'll hear it breathe properly. I've got an Alta intake, and you can hear every breath she takes pretty clearly.

    Also I'm thinking of replacing the sway bar links in mine, the OEM ones look like pencils. Seems for stiffer handling that not having skinny bendy bits attached to the sway bar is a good way to start.
     
  13. Zillon

    Zillon Well-Known Member

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    The OE sway links are prone to failure anyway - they'll start clunking after 40-50k.
     

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