My 07 Turbo is due for a new clutch. I really hate to tear down the trans and all to find that I also need to replace my DMF for a stupid amount of money. What is your opinion of switching to a standard flywheel and sprung disc? Pros?Cons? Cost is about the same. thank you for your opinions.
If there is a Valeo kit I'd recommend one. It seems to be the one folks with R53 MINI's use. I'd call Chad at Detroit Tuned & ask him what he recommends.
Sad to say but the Valeo Kit will not fit the gen 2 cars, and they have not made one yet for it (but have been told its in the works). My recommendation would be a OS Giken with a soft pressure plate. It has nice crisp feel to it and made to withstand it all. And it's about the same price as putting a stock clutch into the car! OS Giken MINI Cooper Clutch Kit Chad Detroit Tuned
USE THESE! JMTURBOCOOPERS! link below, we have installed all of thier combos-they are the equal to the Valeo stufff in the R53. The lightened STEEL flywheel works great and far surpasses any other manufacturer. Next week we are removing an OS Giken in favor of the JM flywheel/clutch combo. JM Turbo Coopers - Home
This is sorta where I was heading....Not sure what I would go with, but it would get the job done and I've had good luck with CM. Vehicle - Mini - Cooper S - 1.6L : 2007-2014 - Clutch Masters
There are those who have had good luck with the ClutchMasters setup, and others who are less than pleased. Unfortunately whenever you're replacing the clutch, it is highly recommended you replace the DMF, (resurface a SMF). The DMF's that come out of cars with about 60K have substantial play, both horizontally and vertically. There is supposed to be a bit of rotational play to them so as to dampen and make driving more.... Pleasurable... Failure of a DMF can be catastrophic, so it comes highly recommended you change it. Having driven multiple cars with multiple clutch setups in them I will say, the OS Giken mentioned above is by far the best engaging clutch option for these cars. Not to mention, there isn't a clutch manufacturer that can match the build quality of the OS Giken throw out bearing design (all steel design with a sealed bearing). Many manufacturers will provide a stock throw out bearing with their "race" clutches, which seems a bit flawed to offer something designed to take the abuse only to pair it with a stock throw out bearing. Nick Detroit Tuned
We haven't always had good luck with Clutchmasters products. One thing to consider is that the price of DM flywheels for the R56 gen cars is coming down. Non-dealership channels are starting to stock them. I know that the SM flywheels are popular for the 53s--we install them pretty regularly, but fair warning, the clutch pedal feel is different, and it takes some getting used to. Last time I looked, I think I saw a part number for the Valeo SM conversion, meaning that they are in the works.
OSG! Don't know about the gen 2, but I wouldn't trade the one i have for anything. A very well made product.
I wish the OSG clutches weren't so expensive.. Since this isn't a clutch job I'm doing myself, i've still got to cover labor, and I'm having the Chain replaced while I'm there, so I'm looking at a hefty repair bill. I ended up going with the CM Steel SMF (since the steel is heavier, the car wont be likely to die from rapid RPM changes when I clutch-in at a stop) and the Kevlar segmented disc. I'm going to get all this done next week sometime. I'll let you know what I think of the setup.
One work of warning about the Kevlar disc... If you get it contaminated with oil....it us done... If you glaze it....it is done, and it will not recover. Heave read a couple of threads of folks installing because of the "posibility" of 2x the wear life... Most came out in weeks or months...about as long as an oil change. I wish you luck...but knew one person who tried...and had one fail. Was it the driver...maybe..city driving, yes, or maybe the install (done at a mini centric garage), too much lube on the throwout bearing?, maybe, or a person who borrowed the car in question who was iffy driving a stick..maybe...but was still a $$$ mistake.
Most of my driving is interstate driving, I'm easy on my clutches and don't race the car at all. I have gotten 150k from a clutch. While I'm in there, the seals are all getting replaced as well so should be good unless something bad happens. Thank you for the words of warning.
Well, that was Fun. I got everything done while I was there. The upper timing chain guide had been ruined and the chain was slapping the metal so it also needed to be replaced. The new Solid flywheel didn't have the hole in it for locking the drivetrain so it had to be sent out and drilled and rebalanced before it could all be done. It's been about a month now. The clutch is working great for me. I like the feel and don't notice anything unusual in the idle of the car or any excess vibration really. I should have taken pictures of the old flywheel and PP as they were both very blue and had more heat cracking then I've seen on one for a long time. The disc was starting to rub the rivets holding on the friction material. In total, i ended up spending around 4300 for everything. Not easy on the wallet but now I should been good for a long time......at least I hope i am. I'll keep updates on the feel of the clutch as time and miles rack up.
original clutch had 98k on it(as far as I know). The flywheel and P.P were blue, purple, and all other colors of the rainbow along with a LOT of heat cracks. She'd been sliding since I bought it and who knows how long before it was in my hands.... So far, the clutch is working flawlessly. I'm at 105k now and not a hiccup.
WELL..................on the clutch aspect, yes. Unrelated to the clutch, the bearings are going out in the differential. :/ NOT pleased with this new development.....