1st Gen R53 Cooper S Battery light Issue bucketlist

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by BLKmini808, Apr 24, 2015.

  1. BLKmini808

    BLKmini808 New Member

    Apr 22, 2015
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    This might be a waste of a post but might be helpful for others in the future. So i'll apologize and take credit where its due, lol.

    I was just curious if people would be able to list/state the battery issues you've had with your mini in the past and maybe a fast explanation of how it was solved. Below is my status that sparked this...

    Car - 05 MCS
    Symptom - Battery light on
    Hypothesis - Power steering, weak charge, alternator, new stereo, chaffed wire by the transmission oil cooler
    Solution - Writing this post and debating where to start, lol
     
  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Jul 31, 2009
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    Just a question, is this the same problem we were helping with in your other post?

    http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/starting-line/24636-aloha-2005-r53-mcs-battery-light-dead-ps-pump.html

    If so we should keep it in one place so we don't repeat post.

    Your cars PS may be covered under an extended warranty for PS. My 02 was covered. Call MINI USA and ask, They will need your vin.

    Did you do a load test on your battery? Not just see if it holds a charge, that is of little help.
    If you have not none a load test go now and have it done. Let us know the results.

    One last thing. Starting on Sunday it will be quiet around here, a lot of us will be at the Dragon.
     
  3. wmwny

    wmwny Well-Known Member

    May 29, 2009
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    We'll all be back in a week, though!
     
  4. BLKmini808

    BLKmini808 New Member

    Apr 22, 2015
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    Good point, I should have kept the posts in one place but I just figured that after a day or so, it gets no visibility.

    I didn't do a load test yet. I did start my car and took off the connection to the battery which resulted in the car turning off within seconds. Took a look at the belt and serpentine system, found the top bushing smashed and falling apart.

    My next steps are to take the belt off to see how bad the wear is and then to replace the tensioner bushing (have some polyurethane ready). I'm still latching onto the hopes that my alternator didn't fail. Partly because its not old at all.

    I have a PS pump on the way which might have been a preemptive buy. If all goes well, maybe I will return the pump with just a belt and tensioner fix. :mad2:
     
  5. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

    Jan 25, 2010
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    The pump is covered under an extented warrenty IF your 2005 was built in the first few months of 2005, or before....so check the build date on the doorjamb, or get you vin# and call mini.....
    You can buy new tensioner on amazon for $130 or so....gates brand, is the mini one with the mini/BMW logo ground off....if the tensioner is bad....might explain if the battery light is on...car would be low on power too from a slipping belt....
    Belts are $15-22 at most auto parts stores...stock belt is only used if you the stock sized damper and sc pulley...getting kinda rare today...
     
  6. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    How old is the battery? I hate to harp on it but you must rule it out. Minis do very odd things when the battery goes bad.
    I would just get a new belt and tensioner You can get a gates tensioner from Amazon or Detroit Tuned for around $100. Also change the idler pulley at the same time. Make sure the crank pulley is not bad. They can go bad and be mistaken for an bad alt.
    Some people change the tensioner once a year.
    Did I say get a LOAD TEST.
    I am not sure a MINI will run with the battery unhooked. It needs the electric system in tact to operate. Hence odd problems when you have a bad battery.
    Did I say to get a load test?
    Did you check to see if your PS pump is covered under the extended warranty? I believe the 05 is covered.

    Let us know what you
     
  7. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Yep what Zippy said. I type slow.:frown2:
     
  8. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

    Jan 25, 2010
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    Naww.....I'm hunt and peck...funny I can type on a phone faster!!
    On a modern car, I would suggest that disconnecting the battery while the car running is NOT good idea...just too many electronics that are $$$.
    Just check the voltage car off, car on after start, and car on after 15 minutes of driving, fan on high, lights on high, everything on mostly.... Should be about 12.5 car off, and 14 car on with a volt it two drop max with everything on unless you have huge loads....
    A $10 Walmart voltmeter will work...
    And most $50 battery chargers of the digital type, will have an "alternator check" feature where it monitors the voltages I stated, and also a bit of battery condition, aka if it needs to be charged to be full....
     

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