How to replace coolant expansion tank - Page 2

Ofioliti · 03-12-2010, 09:18 AM

Thanks for the tips, guys.

The aluminum tanks look great. Unfortunately I already have a new replacement oem plastic tank. It is supposed to be sealed better than the older ones. We'll see ...

lotsie · 03-12-2010, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ofioliti

Thanks for the tips, guys.

The aluminum tanks look great. Unfortunately I already have a new replacement oem plastic tank. It is supposed to be sealed better than the older ones. We'll see ...

Well if it lasts as long as the original, your good for another 7 years.

Mark

Ofioliti · 03-12-2010, 11:11 AM

Yeah!

**ScottinBend** · 03-12-2010, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batrugger

I would seriously consider this:

mini tank: mini canton - mini cooper tank - mini tank for - mini expansion tank - LivermorePerformance.com

It is much less than the Forge and you will never have to replce it.

Nice tip. I like this one........but is a 30lb cap really needed or can another be used?

imspencerwithanr53 · 03-13-2010, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottinBend

Nice tip. I like this one........but is a 30lb cap really needed or can another be used?

yes, there is a lot of pressure in there... trust me

Ofioliti · 03-14-2010, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k-huevo

The clamps are not single use, I’ve reused mine many times; the constant tension clamp expands and contracts in response to thermal changes so it will not damage the hose, nothing inferior about the OE clamp for this application.

Keith and others, just curious, it's not clear to me how the stocks clamps work. I don't see what's holding the clamp tight (except for the the rigidity of the clamp itself). Is that right?

Oh, and is there a special tool needed to get the clamps on? Thanks!

Nathan · 03-14-2010, 02:05 PM

The OEM are a spring type clamp that use the tension created in the manufacture of the clamp to hold spring pressure.

I beleive there is a special tool for this type of clamp by a pair of pliers works fine. Just squeeze the tabs together and slide the clamp down the hose some for safe keeping while changing the bottle. The squeeze the tabs back together and slide into place when ready.

Ofioliti · 03-14-2010, 02:14 PM

I see. That makes sense with what Keith said about the clamps being able to expand. Thanks!

Ofioliti · 03-30-2010, 11:52 PM

Got around to replacing the tank this evening. Here is the DIY "for dummies" with pics! Maybe it will help someone...

First, make sure the engine is cool. Let the car rest for an hour or so to be sure the coolant isn't hot.

Remove the coolant from the tank. I used a cheap "turkey baster" from a hardware store:

Remove the upper hose from the expansion tank. The oem hose clamp is loosened by squeezing the two tabs together with pliers. You can slip the clamp down the hose then pull the hose off:

Next, remove the nut holding the tank to the car:

Now, you need to lift the tank off of two holders underneath and remove the lower hose attached to the tank. The tank has two "nipples" just sitting in two holes of the holders (see picture further down when the tank is removed).

The ignition coil pack is kinda in the way to remove the tank and work on the hose, so I removed the coil pack. I first unhooked the battery. Maybe this wasn't necessary, but I didn't want to be screwing with the electrical components while the battery was attached. Since this is "for dummies" the battery is in the boot (for the Cooper S)

:

To remove the ignition coil, remove the four bolts on the top:

As you remove the ignition coil, be careful not to lose the four rubber gaskets underneath. They will probably be stuck to the base or to the engine:

If the gaskets look cracked and worn, they should be replaced. Mine looked OK after cleaning them up a bit.

Put the ignition coil to the side and out of the way:

With more work space, you can work on the lower clamp. Loosen it by compressing the tabs again, and work it down the hose. Twist the tank free of the hose: