2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Specific Turbo Boosting Problem.....

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by jackandjill4, Oct 7, 2015.

  1. jackandjill4

    jackandjill4 New Member

    Oct 7, 2015
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    2007 Mini Cooper S – 1.6 Liter Turbo(R56) – 122,000 Miles – 90K Timing Belt Replacement – New Clutch
    So here is the situation. I have read a couple 100 pages on the forums about the Yellow Engine Light (Limp Mode) that returns no codes when checked but can tell you I have a definite problem.
    I have checked the items that people have been telling me to check or checking what others say will fix the problem but I have not had anyone document the same exact behavior that I have been seeing.
    I can tell you that after this indicator light comes on the car is still very drivable even at high way speeds just very slow to get their like the turbo is no longer functioning.

    So here is what happens (like clockwork):
    1) Limp Mode is off (no yellow engine).
    2) Get on the highway not being aggressive (5th Gear – 3K RPM - ~ 65MPH) (no yellow)
    3) Get aggressive run to (6K RPM ~100 MPH) (no yellow)
    4) Ease back down slowly to (3K RPM - ~ 65MPH) (no yellow)
    5) Repeat steps(3 + 4) 2 more times (no yellow)
    6) Get aggressive run to (6K RPM ~100 MPH) (no yellow)
    7) Quickly release the gas petal, engine drops to ~4K (YELLOW LIGHT COMES ON)
    8) Accelerate, SLOWLY, back to (6K RPM ~100 MPH) (YELLOW - Turbo No Working)
    9) Wait a while, the light will go out(on same drive) (The process above can be repeated with same results)

    Any clues as to what the problem may be, it feels like a Bleeder Value (or the type of device that accomplishes this). Any suggestions would be help followed and feedback provided for everyone to see.
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Welcome, thanks for joining Motoring Alliance, the FUN and Friendly MINI Community.

    With that sort of mileage, have you looked to see if there a carbon buildup on the valves?
     
  3. CHKMINI

    CHKMINI Club Coordinator
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    Sounds to me like the same issues that Jeff (05R50) had a year or so ago. He ended up replacing a turbo and getting the intake valves walnut blasted. PM him to get the details.
     
  4. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #4 Metalman, Oct 7, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2015
    Based on the milage... Three guestimates....

    Strong guess...
    I'm guessing it's the turbo waste gate valve that's inside the hot side of the turbo not completely sealing all the time. There are cases where the "flapper" valve is worn out and doesn't always seat properly.... The fix is a new turbo... Here is the video of the defective waste gate not sealing properly...
    https://vimeo.com/67482352

    Strong to weak guess #1...
    Carbon buildup to the point where the turbo forces enough through the intake "buildup", but then leans out when the boost drops... Fix is a "Walnut Blast"...

    Weak guess #2...
    Torn BOV, known issue... Fix with oem part is about $50 for parts, not hard to do yourself.
    [​IMG]
    go here for description of issues... http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/cooper-s/21801-lost-power-autocrossing-today.html
     
  5. wzabrouski

    wzabrouski Active Member

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    What code are you getting? What are you using to read the code? Does it always happen on the highway? I had a similar issue and it after about 8 months of trouble shooting it turned out to be a bad wastegate bushing and had to replace the turbo.
     
  6. David Mc

    David Mc New Member

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  7. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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  8. Eric@Helix

    Eric@Helix New Member
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    The first place to start would be to scan the car with a proprietary MINI scan tool (or equivalent). The engine diagnostic trouble codes will give you a big hint on where to start.
     
  9. David Mc

    David Mc New Member

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    Agreed, my deduction is based on the conditions leading to the fault from the OP - specifically at item 6, car is driven at full boost, followed by rapid throttle release (which should cause the DV/BOV to open. After it has opened, item 7 to 9 indicates to me that it is not closing properly until all of the pressure in the induction system is released, which is pretty symptomatic of a DV/BOV failure.
     
  10. Grizld700

    Grizld700 Well-Known Member

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    I can say in my situation, it seems to be the turbo. Replaced diverter valve, performed walnut shell blast, and adjusted the tune I have (concern was happening even before the tune, but I thought what the hell give it a try.)

    I haven't finished the turbo replacement (working on a rebuild right now) so I can't say its the turbo for sure, but I've done everything else already.
     
  11. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    My Gen 1 SC is still running great after 11 years of hard use. (Just saying) :p:rolleyes:
     
  12. Grizld700

    Grizld700 Well-Known Member

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    My supercharger was making weird noises along with my transmission on my R53 so I got rid of it.... just sayin' :drool:

    That being said it was a 2003 and not a '05-'06.... :D
     
  13. Rainman768

    Rainman768 Active Member

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    Dumb question -- would it be harmful to continue driving with either a torn diverter valve or wasted waste gate?

    Our clubby went to zero boost today on the way home from work. In addition to no boost, at 70 MPH it had slight hesitations in acceleration. Under that speed, acceleration was smooth but slow.

    We'll switch to the coupe for the daily driver, for now, but if we need two MINIs I was wondering if it'd be a bad thing to drive the clubby.
     
  14. Grizld700

    Grizld700 Well-Known Member

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    I would keep the driving to a minimum for safety sake (Not being able to safely maneuver the vehicle in a panic situation).

    But short term you can drive it with basically no power.
     

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