2nd Gen R56 Cooper S HPFP no CEL? The saga continues...

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by Guapish_Fliver, Jun 21, 2016.

  1. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    #1 Guapish_Fliver, Jun 21, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
    07 n14 78k miles.

    Yo dudes I want some input on this.

    Car is stumbling under high load. It's a definite fuel cut or detonation or something. Lower RPM range and high gear pulling up hills under boost it always happens... Stumbles, bucks, and acts like a *****.

    The only code reader that allowed me to see anything was a $14,000 auto logic, the old auto zone reader wouldn't see anything...

    No check engine light but the only stored codes were low injector pressure on all 4 cylinders..

    Why aren't hpfp codes showing up? There were no misfire or super knock codes either. So wierd because it was definately missing or knocking or both...

    My tuner seems to think it could be a pressure regulator...

    The complete engine has been rebuilt, head is new, coils, and cold range plugs, and the builder said the injectors looked clean..

    The car now burns zero oil, and the pcv has also been replaced.

    There is no hpfp code stored but when looking at live readings the car hovered around 48-51 at idle. After revving the car and the rpms returned to idle he car would go as low as 44 and rise slowly up to around 48-50. I know idle pressure is supposed to be at 50 or above all the time right? The car idles around 850 rpm and runs good other than when it's under load lol.

    The pressure also dances around a lot at idle shouldn't it be around the same pressure?

    I set up an appointment with the dealer tomorrow to see if they will replace it for me. Hpfp warranties are supposed to be extended for 10 years and over 100000 miles.

    I think they might try to deny me because the car has obviously been modified...

    I didn't tell them my car has been modified are they going to turn me away?

    Do any type of modifications void the factory warranty? Am I wasting my time and will have to spend $1100 on the part and fix it myself?

    I also plan on replacing the fuel filter. Who is the OEM manufacturer? Does rock auto supply the OEM stuff?
     
  2. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Almost 80K miles.... When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? They do a great job catching particles protecting the injector but depending on the quality of the gas the filter may need to be replaced....
     
  3. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    Probably never... Should I replace that before taking it to the dealer u think? I know it's going to be at least an all day ordeal if I go there...
     
  4. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    Can someone verify this is the correct OEM part number for the fuel filter:

    2007 n14 turbo

    11 25 2 754 870
     
  5. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Seems correct...

    Screen Shot 2016-06-21 at 6.08.36 PM.png

    This is what Nathan's looked like after 80K

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    Dayum... Was he exhibiting "issues" under load prior to this replacement?
     
  7. oldbrokenwind

    oldbrokenwind Active Member

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    According to the RealOEM illustrated Parts List http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select that's the number for "Repair kit, fuel filter". There's also an "Activated Charcoal Filter" for a lot more $$. You need to decide which, if not both to replace --- sorry, I can't help --- mine are still OEM at slightly over 80K miles.

    Dealer had no problem replacing my HPFP under warranty, and they knew I had head work plus the Garrett and 3" exhaust. Supposedly, if the mods have no effect on the failed part, warranty should cover it.
     
  8. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    The Gnatster is not a normal MINI..... It's had it's share of issues but seems to be OK now... Nathan can perhaps better answer this question...
     
  9. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    This is what I just ordered... I always get nervous ordering parts I think it's what I need to replace though. I don't know what this charcoal thing your talking about is

    [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/151904893239?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]BMW Mini R55 R56 R57 Fuel Filter Kit with O Rings OEM Gas Gasoline Strainer | eBay[/ame]
     
  10. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    The activated charcoal filter is part of the EPA fuel system ventilation system used to capture hydrocarbons from being released into the atmosphere. Typically the filter that gets clogged with particles from impure gasolene is 11252754870.
     
  11. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #11 Metalman, Jun 21, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
    There is a thread somewhere in the forum that shows the steps to replace it yourself. You get to it under the rear seat from inside the cabin. You need to relieve the fuel pressure and have plenty of rags around the opening... It can be messy and if you spill the gasolene when you take the plastic threaded cover off, you will remember your error for the rest of your ownership.... Especially during hot summer days... And those mirror fresheners won't get rid of the gasolene stink....

    Oh.... And don't be tempted to suck up the gasolene residue around the filter with a shop vac...:D

    https://youtu.be/U6b5eSMnYg8
     
  12. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    OBW, did you show any hpfp codes prior to replacing? All I'm showing is low injector pressures. No misfire, lean codes, super knock, or any type of cel for me. The only way I saw the injector codes was with a pricey reader.

    How was the hpfp diagnosed?

    Maybe it's just the filter..

    Hopefully they'll replace the hpfp anyway..
     
  13. Firebro17

    Firebro17 Dazed, but not Confused
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    YES.
     
  14. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    #14 Guapish_Fliver, Jun 21, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
    Why? Are they going to try and replace the filter first? Or tell me to come back after I do?

    I refuse to spend any money at the dealer. Period.
     
  15. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    More often than not, overfilling kills the EPA canister, aka, the charcoal canister....trying to squeeze in that last 95¢ of fuel to fill it up all the way....STOP on the first click... don't go 5 or 6 more to "top it off".
    It's good till its not.
    It's not a your issue.

    I would suggest you check the psi on the in tank pump....it provides "head pressure" to the pump....sometimes the low pressure in tank pump is called a "lift pump" in some applications. Not sure what the specs are on it...but I would suspect if the HPFP is having to struggle to "suck" up enough fuel it could be causing issues....in aviation, and even in some diesel applications, the lift pump, transfer pump, etc is there to ensure the supply to the HPFP and prevent cavation, aka vacuum bubbles that can form around impellers/gear pumps, etc....the bubble cause accelerated wear, and pump failure, and lowers flow....that's kinda why I kinda suspect it might be an issue in more cars than MINI realizes...it seems the same people have repeated failures with HPFP's... gasoline quality, maybe, running them dry/low, maybe, bad luck. Maybe....my gut says there is more at play.
     
  16. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    Is it bad to pull the fuse and run the pump dry before pulling the fuel filter to relieve pressure or should I just shield my face and have at it?

    I would imagine Mini would verify lift pump pressure before giving me a new hpfp? I would have no idea how to check that, does it show up on live readings from a scanner? All I saw was overall pressure and individual cylinder pressures on the auto logic...
     
  17. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    #17 Guapish_Fliver, Jun 22, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2016
    That MINI dealership was so hipstered out I almost pooped a little. I felt so strange without black framed glasses and skinny jeans in there. Idk if it's their uniform or what but I found it pretty comical..

    Ok so here's what happened, I'll try to explain the best I can the story:

    I was sitting on a curb, zoning out in the parking lot of the dealer when the service advisor called and told me it needed plugs and coils...

    I said ok just throw the parts I had back in there and I'll source them myself...

    In the meantime I slunk into the garage area where my car was and started talking to the dude working on my car who happened to be a master tech there.

    I explained my situation to him letting him know coils had been replaced already, and was actually one of the first things my tuner suggested. This is also the third set of plugs with the latest set being heat range 8. OEM NGK plugs are heat range 7 and my tuner told me since I already replaced plugs and coils that I may need colder range plugs.


    The tech offered to let me drive the car on the dealership parts to verify the problem was fixed and low and behold it was... I was shocked. He explained that hpfp problems will usually always throw codes, run terribly upon startup, and will improve as the car heats up... He said since my problem was consistent hot or cold that's what lead him to spark diagnoses...

    So I told him to throw the stuff I came in with back in there and went and paid for the diagnosis ($150).

    I then proceeded to roll over to the parts counter and purchased coils that I could be certain were legitimate, and installed them myself in the parking lot. I let out of the lot with a howl and instantly encountered the same problems as before. Hilarious.

    So I shot home an re installed 4 of the 8 heat range 7 OEM plugs I had lying around and problem was solved. Again. For fun I installed the last set of heat range 7 "OEM" plugs that are the blue "IR" NGK models, and they ran like sht again... So the proper plugs were the green NGK "R" plugs, not the blue "IR" that people claim are OEM. Very confusing, I hate NGK with their ever changing part numbers and endless cross reference charts it's ridiculous.

    So to be clear:

    Blue NGK heat range 7 "IR" ILZKBR7A8G---WRONG
    Blue NGK heat range 8 LKAR8AI-9-----WRONG


    There were never any CELs and the tech said the low injector pressure codes was low rail pressure, probably from the computer pulling timing not recognizing the resistance in the different coils.. With the new dealership coils the car did not like the heat range 8 plugs for some reason and I hear that's what everyone is running that's modded out... Maybe it's because I'm currently at high altitude I'll talk to the tuner and see what he says...

    So to put it simply, it needed OEM plugs and coils lmao. Pretty embarrassing... I guess that's what I get for trying to save money where I can sourcing parts idk..


    Rock auto claimed the Delphi coils I purchased were OEM and they did in fact look identical with one minor difference after further inspection compared to the coils the dealer had. The insulation at the bottom was ribbed instead of smooth. (See pic) so they were in fact different from OEM, even though it was from the same manufacturer looking very similar...
     
  18. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    The correct coil is the one with the smooth insulator
     

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  19. oldbrokenwind

    oldbrokenwind Active Member

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    No codes that showed up on my AP, just very difficult to cold-start in the AM --- lotsa cranking before it caught, then lotsa pedal-pumping to keep it running, and all this only after a couple high rev runs that seemed to stress the HPFP before shutting it down the day before. Once it started and smoothed out, it performed as expected for a 282HP (then) sleeper. No high-stress runs before shut-down - no hard start problems.

    After a couple days at the dealer, I finally "stressed" the HPFP and left it overnite again to initiate the hard start symptom. If the dealer found a code, they didn't tell me. Since I was an out-of-state customer, they provided a loaner. Made it almost like a vacation.
     
  20. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

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    The correct plug is green
     

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