I have a 2006 Justa R52 that was purchased new and currently approaching 80K miles. It has a lot of mods, but mostly minor. It ran pretty well for over 7 years / 70K miles. Up until recently, my main complaint was that the clutch wore out quickly (less than 30K miles). However, I know that it is subjected to tough conditions for a manual. Much of our driving is stop-and-go on congested San Francisco streets, often on hills. After decades of manuals, I'll probably give in and get an automatic next time. Last summer, things just began failing in quick succession. First I had boiling coolant in the overflow tank. Fixed with a new water pump. A month later, the power steering died. Got it replaced, but unfortunately MINI's recent warranty extension only covers to 2005 model year. Control arm bushings went bad again, this time replaced with Powerflex . The passenger seat sensor is starting to fail again (had been replaced once under warranty). Waiting for it to fail completely. Then the biggie. Some of you may have seen my thread about stalling after filling up with gas. For that very specific condition, the problem was the fuel tank breather valve. However, I also started getting a bad idle stalling problem unrelated to filling up. When the shop calls, you don't want to hear the word "compression". Low compression in 2 cylinders. I went ahead with a valve job. So the car is now running better than it has in a long time, but the last 8 months has been brutal (totalling almost $5K). If it were at 120K miles (or even 100K), I can accept that things wear out and I have to nurse it along. But all of this happening at 75K? A 1st gen Justa should be one of the most reliable models.
Mine has almost 140,000 miles and I have done none of your listed items. Granted I have replaced the axles twice, themostat 3 times now. Hard to tell for sure, but I'd be leaning towards trading if I had spent that kind of money in less then a year.
That's exactly why I went ahead with repairs. If I get a new car, the reason would be that I'm ready for something different. I have some interest in that, but not right away.
So, basically you are saying that out-of-the-ordinary maintenance costs 6 cents a mile. Isn't something that puts a smile on your face worth at least that?
My thinking is if you really like/love the car sure it's worth whatever it costs to keep it running. I figured that the OP was not at that point or why ask?? The other side is, KBB has the car valued at around $6500 and he just spent $5000 on it and it is still only valued at $6500 or so... It all works as long as it is repair free for a long while, but they are already thinking the car is wearing out ( hence this thread ) so now what happens if that is true and the motor goes out. Is it worth another $3500 or more to rebuild/replace it? I'm glad they love the car and willing/able to afford to keep it on the road. Was just throwing out there the other side of the coin since they asked.
Sorry but that's all just the part of the BMW / MINI way of life with the "lifetime" parts they use on all cars they make.
Last summer, things just began failing in quick succession. First I had boiling coolant in the overflow tank. Fixed with a new water pump. A month later, the power steering died. Got it replaced, but unfortunately MINI's recent warranty extension only covers to 2005 model year. Control arm bushings went bad again, this time replaced with Powerflex . The passenger seat sensor is starting to fail again (had been replaced once under warranty). Waiting for it to fail completely. Then the biggie. Some of you may have seen my thread about stalling after filling up with gas. For that very specific condition, the problem was the fuel tank breather valve. However, I also started getting a bad idle stalling problem unrelated to filling up. When the shop calls, you don't want to hear the word "compression". Low compression in 2 cylinders. I went ahead with a valve job. As a repair shop taking care of dozens of cars like yours, here is some insight: We have replaced only ONE R50 water pump in the past 5 years-yours would make 2, but it is a rarity. The suspension bushings from MINI/BMW are crap and should be replaced with powerflex at 50k, then forget it for the life of the car we have replaced many 05-06 steering pumps that were not covered by the recall. OTOH my 05S with 112k on it has not yet needed one, with lots of twisty driving. luck of the draw, I suppose. THE BIGGIE: we have had to do valve jobs for burned exhaust valves on several R50 & R53 engines, but we do even more on R56 S vehicles. IMHO the gasoline, especially winter blend, in California contributes to this. as an aside, I have 4 customers with R50s north of 150k that have had clutches and suspension bushings changed but are motoring along on thier original stg pumps, water pumps, internal engne parts. These 4 customers are INCREDIBLY GENTLE with thier cars. I mean they are way above average when it comes to shifting at 3000 rpm and never revving higher, looking for fuel mileage. They also do not drive canyons, track days, etc. I always tease them they are not having enough fun in these cars but they smile and have what is thier fun-driving a MINI and getting 35 mpgs. BELIEVEME, I AM NOT SAYING YOU ARE HARD ON YOUR CAR! THESE cars should be driven and enjoyed After a lifetime of car repair, I have seen this time and again in all brands-some cars are just a bit better and some cars are a lot worse over thier driving lifetime. Yours appears to be a bit worse. I do believe the gasoline avail here on the left coast is partly to blame for your valve issues though and nothing you can do about that.
Thanks MM. Just to hijack thread slightly. I have easy access to 93 octane fuel in the Midwest and run it in both of my N18 JCW motors. Is there a specific brand or octane you recommend in order to help keep valves relatively clean longer? thanks.
Those are valid points that I didn't think through at the time. A major factor is that I didn't (and still don't) have something in mind that I'd been yearning for as my next car. If I did, I'd probably have gone for it. As it is, I can continue life with a car I like, without disruption. For now :fingerscrossed:. My wife is very gentle on the car. My driving is more spirited but limited by city traffic. I wonder if it is city conditions that are hard on the car (basically like driving in Manhattan, but with hills).
Well...add crap fuel to the mix....sorry, but 93 octane is good stuff...heck...I am still lamenting the loss of 94 due to Sunoco closing is own owned referinery and switching to contract production.... HOPEFULLY all the stuff that your car has needed are done for the next 30,000+ miles or so... Good luck!!:cornut:
I can still get 100 octane race fuel (leaded) from pumps.....about 8$ a gallon...when i smelled the stuff, I am 100% sure it is 100LL aviation fuel.....so it is leaded... If you go by the local airport (the FBO...AVITAT at PNE comes to mind) with a container...you can buy it for a couple bucks less..just tip the line guy..and best do it at night when the management is not around!! It is leaded....and not LOW IN LEAD...LL DOES stand for LOW LEAD- that is in comparison to the older aviation grades of 100/130 leaded fuel and 115/145 octane fuel.....
I can get race fuel at the speed shop where I get my Meth VP M1. I just miss being able to buy it at almost any Sunoco. FYI the Harley Gas station at the Dragon sells 100 race fuel. If I remember correctly it was 8.75 or 9.00 bucks a gallon last year. Its the good unleaded stuff and I fill the tank completely once during Dragon week. Race Fuel + Meth = a very good smell and FUN drive. :devil: