Wheel Stud Question

Discussion in 'MINI' started by Qik, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    Do studs get rid of the need for hub centric rings? This is my first vehicle with bolts and as far as I know, this hub centric deal only affects this sort of set up.
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

    Mar 30, 2009
    25,144
    10,052
    113
    Writer
    Short North
    Ratings:
    +10,069 / 0 / -0
    #2 Nathan, Aug 10, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
    I don't think so. Been using the studs for year but always use the hubcentric rings when required too.

    Edit... Try not to use the plastic ones, they have a tendency to melt and adhere to the wheel and/or hub.
     
  3. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
    19,424
    10,031
    113
    Retired old fart
    Hooterville Ohio USA
    Ratings:
    +11,656 / 2 / -0
    You can try not using hub centric rings. If you end up with balance problems you may have to install the rings. Best thing to do is buy a wheel that has a center bore that matches the hub.

    We see people quite often chancing balance problems on their Meotter's only to find out they have omitted the hub centric rings.
     
  4. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    Thanks gents!
    The reason I ask is I ordered a set of wheels. Since having the tires mounted and put on the car I've had a vibration at 60 and above. I had the tires re balanced as well as had an alignment done. I have the rings installed and tire rack has sent me a set of new rings. Pending a road force test this coming friday they'll be installed. I'm hoping it's a tire(s) or the wheels and nothing major, but this whole experience has left me with more questions than answers. There was no vibration prior to new wheels being installed. Here's to it not being a symptom of a larger/more expensive issue :beer. I did hit a pothole and had to have some work done to the left front a while back, but there's all new bushings, a strut with mount, and a control arm. I noticed the shop that did the work did nothing to push the strut tower back down, it's not very noticeable but it's still up a slight amount and I don't think that could cause my issue. But as mentioned before, I would of had the vibration prior to the new wheels. I think.
     
  5. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
    19,424
    10,031
    113
    Retired old fart
    Hooterville Ohio USA
    Ratings:
    +11,656 / 2 / -0
    Try rotating your wheels front to back & see if the vibration changed. It may help you narrow it down. A road force balance should tell you if you have a bum tire.
     
  6. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    I did that to try and isolate the problem to one of 2 wheels/tires but the vibration persisted. :mad2:
     
  7. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
    19,424
    10,031
    113
    Retired old fart
    Hooterville Ohio USA
    Ratings:
    +11,656 / 2 / -0
    One more thing, at the shop that will do the road force balancing make sure the guy who is best at it does the job. Just because they have the proper equipment doesn't ensure that know how to use it.
     
  8. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 4, 2009
    25,021
    13,497
    113
    Burbs of Philly, PA
    Ratings:
    +14,644 / 10 / -4
    This is the truth and has been proven at shops all over the country. :Thumbsup:
     
  9. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    Will do! This shop is closer to my house in Peachtree City and until recently I didn't know they existed. I went there last Saturday but they weren't able to get me in. I did notice the large amount of imported sports and luxury cars, Porsche's and LOTS of BMW's etc. I spoke to a couple of the techs and it's fantastic to get a sense of competence from them. They seem to notice the little things and that's important to me. I found a new shop :cornut: Anyone in the ATL area, if you're tired of Way or the stealership, I got your spot :beer http://www.theosautomotive.com/
     
  10. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 4, 2009
    25,021
    13,497
    113
    Burbs of Philly, PA
    Ratings:
    +14,644 / 10 / -4
    Glad you found an alternative to WAY and the Dealerships.

    I was lucky to find Helix right in my own backyard. :Thumbsup:

    Top notch, Honest and they do great work at fair price. For any real work that needs done to my car it only goes one place, Helix!

    * I have a local guy a few blocks away that does my oil changes, tire mounting & balancing and Inspection and Emissions.
    If he finds anything he always says ask you buddies at Helix about this or that.
     
  11. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    I had Helix clean my intake valves. Stand up group of folks! Can't beat $350 for that job. And after I had work done I could officially put a Helix sticker on Bitsy Mae! What's the 13 mean in H13? I think next year at MOTD I'll have them throw me in a rear sway bar :D
     
  12. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 4, 2009
    25,021
    13,497
    113
    Burbs of Philly, PA
    Ratings:
    +14,644 / 10 / -4
  13. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

    Jan 25, 2010
    1,404
    688
    113
    Pilot
    Southern NH
    Ratings:
    +688 / 0 / -0
    #13 ZippyNH, Aug 10, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2016
    Just get hubcentric rings....
    Fought the good fight once...not worth it...
    Plastic ones are maybe $5 a set....nice machined metal ones are more $$ and will last...
    Either way, put a but of anti-sieze on them before you put on, and a trace bit on the face of the hub/rotor...it will make rim changes simpler, and means the rims/and or rings won't get stuck.
     
  14. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    They're already on the wheels, I have another set that I'm going to install pending the road force test. Turns out I'm not alone, plenty of folks have this same issue when going away from factory to aftermarket wheels. All say it's the rings.
     
  15. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

    Jan 25, 2010
    1,404
    688
    113
    Pilot
    Southern NH
    Ratings:
    +688 / 0 / -0
    Honestly, they were not as smooth with my aftermarket rims....I had plastic...metal rings are said to fix it...
    I ended buying a set of used 2013 rims, sold the tires a tpms and had a free set of OEM rims to use rather than buying a set of metal rings......
     
  16. caseydog

    caseydog Well-Known Member

    Nov 7, 2012
    2,433
    879
    113
    Automotive Photographer
    Dallas
    Ratings:
    +1,059 / 1 / -0
    I've only had problems like this with aftermarket rims, which MANY of my cars have had. The BBS rims on my Miata were dead-on perfect, as were the OZ rims on one of my Audis. The others, not so much.

    Another thing that you have probably already looked at are the taper on your nuts (whhhaaat?). I wanted to save money using my factory nuts with aftermarket wheels once, and discovered that there are different tapers. My factory nuts were not the right taper for my aftermarket wheels.

    Anywho, any time you go from factory to aftermarket, you are going from something thoroughly tested by the manufacturer for use on one specific car, to something made for several cars and adapted to your car. It may take some research and fiddling around to get it to work right. At least, that is my experience.

    Lucky for me, I love the factory wheels on my MINI, so I haven't been tempted to go aftermarket.

    CD
     
  17. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    I love my factory R112's, but I've always been a 2 wheel set per car kinda guy. I do have some aftermarket "tuner" bolts that have more of a taper than the factory bolts. I'll give them a try! Thanks mate :Thumbsup:
     
  18. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 4, 2009
    25,021
    13,497
    113
    Burbs of Philly, PA
    Ratings:
    +14,644 / 10 / -4
    It all depends on the quality of aftermarket rims you buy. Also make sure the wheel bolts are torqued to the correct spec.

    My rims do not have this problem at all and I have metal hub centric rings.

    Remember you get what you pay for. :idea: :ihih:

    Enkei Racing PF01's.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
    19,424
    10,031
    113
    Retired old fart
    Hooterville Ohio USA
    Ratings:
    +11,656 / 2 / -0
    Very good point & one that I knew of, but forgot because I'm a forgetful old fart.
     
  20. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    1,421
    670
    113
    IT
    Atlanta-ish
    Ratings:
    +811 / 0 / -0
    I got some Sparco's(made by OZ), and thought the quality was decent/middle of the road. Coulda been wrong :mad2: If this road force test is inconclusive and the aftermarket bolts don't make a difference I'll return them and go up a price point I spose. These came with plastic rings. Maybe that's the real issue. We shall see :Thumbsup:
    Here's my wheels- http://www.ozracing.com/wheels/sparco/assetto-gara
     

Share This Page