Hey guys, I was searching the forums and wasn't able to find a diy for a stud conversion install. I know it's a simple job but it doesn't hurt to have it just in case for reference I just picked up a 75mm stud conversion kit for the R56 from Ryan over at Motorsport Hardware. He just came out with the kit for us Mini owners but he's well known with the BMW crowd. Right off the bat, I could tell it was a great kit. The studs are bullet nose/TUV approved and combined with the lugs are very light and comparable to the weight of the standard lugs. Much lighter than the extended lugs I was originally running for my spacers. In addition, they come in black which is always a plus! For reference Ryan sent me over a pic of the different stud lengths and nuts he has available for both the R56 and R50/53 platforms. Now on to the DIY: Tools Needed: Torque Wrench T30 Allen Key 17 mm Regular and Deep Socket Blue Loctite 1. Remove OEM lugs and wheel. (17mm socket) 2. Inspect the threads on the hub to ensure that none of them are stripped. 3. Clean the inside of the threads to ensure there is no debris that may lead to issues when installing the studs. *If your hubs are rusted like mine you may want to take some steel wool and give them a good clean to ensure that nothing will seize to the hub. 4. Now its time to install the studs. Thread each one in individually by hand to ensure that they will in fact go in without any issues. 5. Remove the hand threaded studs and now apply blue loctitite onto the side that will be inserted into the hub. 6.Now you will be installing the studs with the loctite. Hand tighten all the studs into the hub. 7.Use the t30 allen key to torque down the studs to 25 ft/lb. This is a little past hand tight. *Don't overdue it! *When you look in the back of the hub you should be able to see about 1 or two threads of the studs sticking out. 8. Once you finish that, its all smooth sailing from there. 9.Mount your wheel onto the studs and sit back and enjoy how easy it is to remove/install your wheels without all the moving around just to hold the wheel up to the hub. Of course the added benefit of not stripping the lugs/hub as well! *Extra: Not required but you can apply anti seize copper to each lug to ensure that they will not seize in the long run. Once the wheel is on the hub, hand tighten all the lugs then torque them down to 87ft/lb using the 17mm deep socket. *Normal length socket will not fit as the studs will stick out farther than the lug. 10. Wallah! Enjoy your new race ready look and safety :wink: *The brown is not rust, its copper anti seize. *This is how far the 75mm studs stick out with a 16mm spacer from outmotoring. If you guys are interested in a set let me know via PM and I can get you in touch with Ryan over at Motorsport Hardware.
:cornut: Your 1st post and it's a how to post with photos. We all welcome you to MA and thank you very much. You're a Gentleman and Scholar Sir and there are damn few of us left. Jason
I considered going with the 14 to 12 but I ran the Motorsport Hardware stud conversion on my e92 3 series and I can stand by their products. I decided to go with confidence in the product rather than more lug nut selections haha :arf:
I'm surprised that blue locktite will hold given the temps the brakes get to on track days..... Also, copper anti-sieze on the threads? I was always taught that was a no-no, because you couldn't get accurate torque values with it, and if you torque to spec you'll be over-torquing the nuts. There are a lot of good reasons to run studs, I wonder why the German mfrs all choose bolts instead?
I agree with you Dave on the anti seize on the studs... Torque readings for lug bolts are published as dry (no lubricant).. However there are conversion charts for "lubed"... Not sure about the concern on the temperature for the blue loctite... Am thinking the wheel itself is a huge heatsink... If the temperature is high enough to the point where it affects the locktite then the grease in the hub may also be at risk... But others may chime in with what stud temperatures get to on track days... Here in our shop we do apply torch heat in order to deal with locktite fastener removal....
Why blue loctite instead of red? Most manufacturers recommend the permanent stuff. Also, I would recommend cleaning the holes with brake cleaner before you thread in the studs. The loctite works best if the surfaces are perfectly clean and dry. I would also recommend applying the thread locker and threading them in, out, and in again to be sure the fluid is evenly applied. I took these steps and I've been using an impact wrench to take the nuts off without any problems.
I used blue loctite on my studs and copper anti seize too, torque mine to 85ft/pd, never any issues in 9 years. Had those wheels so hot, had to use gloves to handle them. I use anti seize on all my vehicles lug studs, no issues ever.
My understanding was that it took about 300* to get red locktite to release.....and I'd expect the discs to get well over that, especially on track....that was my thinking anyway.
As far as the blue loctite though it really is just an extra safety precaution to ensure that the studs won't back out. In European racing sanctions, they don't even require any sort of loctite neither blue or red. In my own personal opinion and experience, blue is more than enough. I've used blue loctite on several stud conversions in the past and have had no issues with occasional auto x/amateur track days and having the stud back out. In addition, red loctite would need to be heated up just to remove/change the studs which is overkill in my opinion. But then again it is just my opinion. Hopefully some other members can chime in
I've been getting quite a few PM's in regards to interest in the stud conversions from motrosport hardware. Maybe if we get a few more interested motorists I can talk to Ryan and maybe set up a group buy :wink:
As far as the copper antiseize I'll have to look into the torque values specific for this. Thanks for the info!
Manufacturers probably choose bolts as it is one less thing to have sticking out of the side of the car, snagging parts and people as the car runs along the assembly line. It also adds one more part and step to the assembly process Studs: 1) install studs, 2) mount tire, 3) install nuts Bolts: 1) mount tire, 2) install bolts
I was able to set up a group buy with Ryan for the studs over on motoring underground. Here's the link if you guys are interested Motorsport Hardware Stud Conversion Group Buy - motoring|underground