Thanks to some Pro MINIacs, & Motoring Alliance I installed new PSRS control arm bushings in my Gen2 MINI. SONICHRIS gave a brief written description on this method for a Gen1 on that other forum. This method was then modified for Gen 2 MINIs and then coupled with Steve’s (Chad Miller of Detroit Tuned) Motoring Alliance Library article “R56 ALTA Positive Steering Response System (PSRS)†.This article provided the final piece of the puzzle, with the idea of using the three jaw puller to remove the bushing from the control arm. No special tools are required for this install. For me this method is much less complex than dropping the entire sub frame. Perhaps the MINIac pros can point out any defects in this method of installing control arm bushings on the MINI. Hope this helps the next MINIac doing this install -- Ron
Well done Ron, thanks for posting this! Couple bits of clarification though: That article has my name/username in the "who posted it" area only because I loaded it to the Library for Chad and that is the limit of my contribution to both his project and yours. Chad's M/A username is agocart and that's his article; credit where it's actually due. No special tools other a hydraulic press and a 3-jaw puller...those are unusual tools in many garages.
Yes, quite well done, thanks for posting. The guide does point out that one should purchase a carrier/bushing assembly. Granted it is late in the text but, one should have read over the guide before starting. 3 Jaw pullers are easy to rent for the weekend, local Autozone stores may even lend them with a small deposit that is returned when the tool is brought back.
That's a good write up. Makes it look alot easier than it is. It could be done in your garage, that's why we offer both the Alta and Powerflex bushings prepressed into the brackets.
Thanks for the kind words. Thanks for the correcting the credits -- I went back and corrected the pdf file. As far as the tools go, I was coming from the perspective of the $300+ BMW tool that some use for this install. My $10 Harbor Freight 3 jaw puller is pretty un-special in comparison. In hind sight I should have purchased the bushing pressed in the carrier from somebody like "way" and I probably should have stated that clearly. The time it took to stop, drive to my work, press out and in the bushings and then drive back took almost as much time as the rest of the work. It was not near as bad as I expected. The tough part was removing the 2 bolts that mount the bushing carriers to the sub frame, THEY WERE TIGHT AND LONG --- the work space is very tight, no impacts or long cheater bars here. The PS was especially tough. I now highly recommend buying the bushings pressed into the carriers from someone like you --- It is worth every penny!
Thanks for this post. I am considering attempting this on my R53 and doing both the CA and swaybar bushings. Couple of quick questions... 1) When you say Gen 2 do you mean R56? If so, what would be the differences if doing this on an R50/53? Removing torx bolts on the steering rack (R56) versus pinch bolt on the steering linkage (R53)? 2) For those who have installed Powerflex poly CA bushings, how hard is it to press a new poly insert (purple) onto the control arm? Would it be reasonable to do this with the control arm still mounted like in this process?
changing contro arm bushings Hi, I see you mentioned Sonichris gave a description on how to change the control arm bushings on the Gen 1 mini. Can you tell me where I can find that? Thanks, Arlene
Post # 15 on this thread from the sewing forum: MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Front control arm bushing install
Yesterday I followed Ron's great PDF and did this on the garage floor. Got the bushings off the car no real issue(3 jaw puller from Harbor Freight), just tight on the rear bolt for CAB to Frame. This took as much time as everything else to unbolt. Took the bushings to a local machine shop who pressed out the old ones for $20. The new Powerflex went right in with some soapy water. All back together. About 2hrs both directions. No real hurry as it was my first time.
Stuck at the "Very Tough" part! This was such a great write up, that I purchased the Powerflex bushings and started this project myself. However now I am stuck! On my R56, this process only drops the subframe about 1.5 inches. I don't see how I will remove the rear 5 inch bushing carrier mounting bolt as there is only 1.5 inches of clearance between the bolt and the underside of the floor. I know this post is 5 years old at this point, but does anyone who performed this process have any insight on how to remove the 5 inch long bolt, with only 1.5 inches of clearance? Thanks in advance!
I did this tonight but didn’t have access to the write up as the server was down. I neglected to loosen the steering rack bolts but the subframe dropped enough for clearance anyway. I opted to replace the control arm complete with ball joints from Dorman on Amazon for $40 each. Got the pre pressed power flex bushings and all told form jack up to jack down 3.5 hours.
@Ed Abbe - sorry, we are still working on getting all the articles up (big thanks to @MCS02 for that). Also, good to know you were able to get it done in 3.5 hours.. nice "time" marker..