My R53 journey, First time Mini owner,LOT S of pics

Discussion in 'Car Builds, Projects, Idea's Experiments' started by z_wrecker, May 15, 2017.

  1. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

    Apr 14, 2017
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    so this past Saturday I decided to tackle the supercharger oil replacement. I've been toying with the idea of keeping the wheels and changing the color on them ( I'll make sure to take pics). Also the clear protection looks awful and it is has been cracking since I got the car so figured I'd tackle a few things at once. I only took a couple of pictures of my disassembly, but I am happy to report a few things.
    1) I started and completed the oil replacement in the supercharger in one day. I took my time cleaning things and really learning the car.
    2) I had no extra bolts left over :)
    3) supercharger had plenty of oil. Water pump side was dark brown while the belt side was more honey brown.
    4) I ordered Gates K060532 belt to go with already installed cravenspeed 17% reduction pulley (previous belt was K060535 which should work but I've read K060532 should be used???)
    5)cleaned and oiled the intake and cleaned most of the engine bay
    6) I hate the intercooler couplers with passion


    0B07E84A-5628-44AB-BB16-45400E149BFE.jpg 9283262D-49C0-4C60-859F-74A60DAF26F7.jpg B05006EF-34B4-4E78-87D3-E75BCFB829F3.jpg
     
  2. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Intercooler couplers are easy to install omce you know the trick.

    First thing is use the rubber OEM ones. The silicone ones do not stretch or seal well. I had them and they all cause boost leaks. The OEM rubber ones are used on 400+ hp MINI race cars so are good enough for our cars.

    Now the trick. :ihih:

    Take off the two lower front brackets that hold the IC and cover on. It's only 2 bolts for each because it will give you wiggle room later to make sure the IC is sealed properly. You will be able to put them back on after the IC is installed again before you put on the cover.

    Looking at the motor put the small one the right side all the way on and push it all the way on past the lip that stops it.
    The whole thing will be on the outlet horn.

    Next put the large one on the the left side with the claps loosely on and slide the IC in and to the Left.
    You can tighten them a little more so they are snug.

    Now go back to the right side and line up the IC with the outlet horn and slide the rubber IC boot to the right and it will line up perfectly.

    For the two small right hand side claps you can feed the bottom parts under the boot from the back or the front and then put the tops on and out the screws back in. You can snug them up and double check everything with a flashlight to make sure all the claps and rubber boots are lined up ready to be completely tightened.
     
  3. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I know those blue IC boots look good but I would go back to the stock ones. They go on easer and don't leak.
     
  4. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    What Dave said. You beat me to it Dave!:lol:
     
  5. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    Thank you so much for your words of wisdom! This won't be the last time I take them off I am sure. I got them on with the help of little silicone spray. They were on the car when I bought it. I will most definitely add the OEM ones to the list. Either one of you gents have a suggestion on the correct belt to use?
     
  6. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I have a 17% pulley and use the Gates K060532. Also I would change the belt tensioner and idler pulley at the same time. If you don't have the belt tensioner tool get one! I struggled for years with out one. That was stupid!!!
     
  7. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    Perfect. This is the reassurance I needed. Already changed the belt tensioner, idler pulley and got the tool! Having worked on Audi's for years I've learned the importance of good quality specialty tools.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    A little late now but did you change the green seal on the SC? I didn't and it started to leak. If you mini starts to stink under WOT when the boost is high that is the problem.
     
  9. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    I changed every seal that was removed in addition to the crank position O ring. I was surprised how clean everything looked. I think I have a small leak around the oil filter housing (already have a new gasket). Which I will tackle tonight or tomorrow night as I change out the transmission fluid and oil change.


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  10. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Good. A few months ago when I did my clutch I did the oil filter gasket/seals and the oil pan gasket. I also replaced the water lines going to the oil filter because they had swelled.

    R53's are great! nothing better than that SC whine!
     
  11. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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  12. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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  13. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    It's a very tight fit and a PITA to get on so make sure you have the tensioner compressed as far as you can with the pin in the second hole. You may even nee a second set of hands to compress it a little more.

    Just remember the idler pulley is the last pulley to slide the belt onto since it has no lip like the other pulleys.

    I also keep a spare belt and spare new tensioner on my garage just because. :ihih:
     
  14. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    Great advice. I ended up purchasing a pulley and tensioner from FCP Euro. They have lifetime warranty on their parts. I've used them for my Audi wear and tear items. Great bit of info about the idler pulley being the last. That's the way I took it off. It was a struggle to get the pin in the second hole but I ended up getting it. The belt showed "delivered" but it was nowhere to be found yesterday. Hoping it shows up today.
     
  15. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    Quick update.
    -Oil changed with full synthetic
    -Transmission fluid change as well (it looked original, and I hope it wasn't)
    -Coolant flushed (car barely had any antifreeze in it, looked clear)
    -Added a resistor for the low speed fan
    I have to say that Torro drives better than ever since I've had him. New tensioner and shorter belt have made a difference. Cleaning things as I went I found that I have a torn outer CV boot. I've clamped down over the torn part and will be replacing it this weekend. Not sure I want to replace the whole axle since there is no noise that I am hearing and I'd rather keep the OEM axles as long as I can. I also started "peeling" or scraping rather the original clear protection. It came off easily from the hood but the bumper is another story. I let it bake in the sun and used plastic blade scraper and googone sticker remover. I consider myself to be a patient person but this made me want to take an angle grinder to the bumper. :)

    here is the pic of the front bumper
    A0DB29C4-A41A-4D84-9ADC-5C4EB9660959.jpg

    Dirty finger nails since I ran out of latex gloves and it was 95 degrees out
    15B85083-70C4-423E-AC0E-5EF053A412EE.jpg
    Hood portion off, and as far as I got with the bumper before I became too anxious to wait for a test drive
    D9F68CDE-52E9-430B-9815-EA4A7054648F.jpg
     
  16. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    I still haven't removed all of the "goo" and didn't do any polishing or cleaning. I am letting it bake in the sun and working on it slowly. After it is all removed, I will do some paint correction and touch up where needed. I still need to install a lower JCW grille since currently I have a cover installed. Good news is that the dark circles in the clear bra were not on the paint. I'll be trying a steamer over the weekend and hoping to sort out the front bumper with the new grill.
     
  17. z_wrecker

    z_wrecker Member

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    Another little side project were my wheels. They are 17" MSW in black. Unless on a track I was never a fan of the blacked out look. Some cars can pull it off, but with this blue and silver combo it just seemed little too much. I've never used plastidip before so I thought I would give it a shot. I purchased a few cans of black for a base and then silver metalizer and their glossifier. I fixed a couple of places that the wheels were curbed by PO and proceeded to add 6 coats of black, followed by two coats of silver and a coat of clear. This is the end result and I am really happy especially since the tires are like new. Eventually I will get some new wheels, but my garage already has 4 extra sets of wheels for my Audi so I couldn't justify buying another set before I free up some room. Overall I think it changes the look of the car completely and I like it so much more!
    Before
    26942336-246D-4B01-B7D3-E3F24852184C.jpg
    During
    11869D27-A55D-404D-B4D1-CEC030989BFD.jpg
    After
    2C3FA596-D176-4A37-982E-CFE4A7405C06.jpg

    I'll be taking some better pictures after I properly clean the car and get other things sorted. Thanks for all your help so far everyone!!!
     
  18. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Good work !! Your car is coming along nicely.
     
  19. Harleysforfun

    Harleysforfun New Member

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    Nice improvement! How do you get the horn cover off? Dick Bradford Brooklyn Park Minnesota. Thanks and nice to meet you!
     
  20. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    WOW :Thumbsup:

    What a difference! I hate black wheels as they are a fad and looks stupid on anything other than a track car.

    GREAT JOB !

    As for your front bumper, buy a new JCW / Aero bumper and have it painted by a local body shop you trust. The labor cost to strip, fix and repaint the bumper you have now will caost more then a new one. Also you can save the old bumper for crappy winter driving since it is so easy to take off. :idea:

     

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