1st Gen R53 Cooper S My 2005 R53 Daily Driver build thread

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by fishmonger, Sep 24, 2017.

  1. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

    May 13, 2015
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    Back from Road Atlanta. That bolt is still stuck in the block. Need to find me some top quality extraction tools to continue.

    While I was away, boxes with cooling system hoses and o-rings for leaky sensors and dip stick tubes arrived, as well as new wiper blades and a new "dog bone" lower engine mount, just to get the $49+ free shipping from ECS tuning.

    Oh, and that console plug arrived. And I promptly dropped it through the hole into the console. Now that I have to remove that part to retrieve the little plastic cover, I bet I'll find the old one in there as well.
     
  2. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Finally something's I can relate with, broken bolts that are a bear to extract and dropping pieces in places that require disassembly to retrieve. :D. Good luck
     
  3. Goldsmithy

    Goldsmithy MINI Alliance Ambassador
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    I knew there was someone with my level of mechanical skills out there...thanks for making me feel better.
     
  4. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    Lol! That's exactly how I wound up needing a replacement for a tiny plug on the dash. It popped out while I was installing my GPS mount. I picked it up, it slipped from my fingers and promptly flew down a dash vent. I decided that it was well worth the $12 to replace that plug instead of disassembling the dash. That center console bit comes apart easily... you will have it back in 10 minutes or so!
     
  5. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Finally had time to get back in the garage. While I was out of town, tools and parts arrived.

    Up first was the supercharger pulley - easier to deal with while still off the car. Based on the belt damage it was obvious the pulley was not deep enough on the shaft. Instructions say you need to go as deep as possible and then back it off 0.02" or 0.5mm. Impossible to see where it was installed, I needed to get it off. Being aftermarket. the normal puller I have is useless.

    Removed the screws (nearly no torque on them) but still found the pulley body fused to the hub. After some thinking and puller trials (all too large or too small), I decided to give the big pry bar a try. Three or four pushes around the edge and 'ping' the pulley went flying. Body needed some coercion as well but came off nicely. Cleaned the parts, polished them to reinstall. The machining on the surfaces that mate just is a bit rough, so I polished that a bit to allow these two parts to pull onto each other a little easier

    [​IMG]

    removed cravenspeed 17%


    Next I reseated it as the instructions require, took a torque wrench and went to town on those 4 bolts. Never got it to click at 15 ft lbs, but I used locktite (unlike original installer). The pulley body snugged up nicely and I got from 6mm down to 4mm gap between blower and pulley. Just about what it seemed to be off based on belt damage.

    [​IMG]
    properly installed

    Next, before I was able to install the now fully serviced blower, I needed to tackle that broken tensioner bolt. New bolts and various extraction tools had arrived. I did some research on extraction tools and the consensus was that for such problems, a really good set of left hand drill bits is what I should be using. The method suggested is to start out real small and work your way up one drill size at a time until one of them bites and turns out the bolt. Extractor bits aren't any better at that but they don't drill a hole one could tap later if the extraction fails. Plus, you don't want to break one of those hardened extractors off (happened to me once on my Tundra, so I am not a fan of that method).

    This is what I ordered - http://a.co/0YMCWtq and it was $35 well spent. Combined with a quality center punch, I got the smallest drill bit started in the center, a key requirement for this method to work. I drilled the small bit just a tiny amount to get a good start for the next size. These things are fragile at the small sizes. Second drill bit went in, 2 seconds later the bolt was turning itself out! Sweet.

    [​IMG]
    m6x35 tensioner bolt extracted

    At that point I was able to install the new tensioner and begin the re-assembly of the super charger. On the way, I replaced O-rings for CPS and dip stick tube, with some added gasket maker silicone to seal these guys for a little longer than the normal o-ring life time. New coolant hoses for the main radiator connections went in because there was some wear on one of them. Figured do them now and be done with it. The new water pump was already mentioned before.

    I kept cleaning stuff as I went along. So much dirt on this car, I keep thinking that they must have lived on a dirt road or visited grandma frequently who lives on a dirt road farm somewhere. I spent more time on some of the hose clamps than on extracting the bolt from the engine block... I replaced most of them with proper snake/screw type clamps so I don't get aggravated ever again :)

    Status right now - waiting for new belt (17% pulley needs a Gates 532 not the 535 I have on the shelf for the other cars), plus I am waiting for a fan speed resistor replacement. Strangely, the resistor in this car isn't broken, but we know that this is only a matter of time. Doing it now while the car is apart is easier. HID H7 bulbs for the fog lights are waiting to be installed today (love them on the red car). Fuel filter is to be swapped today and I have foam speaker baffles to put behind the door speakers, so the door cars are coming off again.
     
  6. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    #46 fishmonger, Oct 16, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017
    Sunday was another busy day in the garage. Changed the transmission oil (Royal Purple Synchromax), then mostly assembly and cleaning as I put the supercharger and air intake pieces back on the car.

    The R53-literate will see I added red silicone gasket material to the dip stick tube and CPS sensor areas. Also cleaned up the block which had 12 years of oil leakage build up on it.

    [​IMG]
    Red RTV silicone mark leaky o-ring locations

    I keep reusing those green gaskets on the SC intake, mostly because they do look pretty good to me, and the new part is $15+. Never had leak there, although every time I get through the assembly of that $#@$% part, I tell myself to not take a chance with that gasket. It is the most annoying part to get on the car. I usually end up loosening the intercooler outlet horn that connects to the bypass valve. Without that slack, I can't get the rubber hose under the bypass valve. Still a pain.

    Here a shot of the area before all that went in - lots of open space to clean a decade of crud out of that engine bay

    [​IMG]
    gaping hole next to thermostat

    A few hours later it looked like this - I easily spent an hour cleaning that ribbed intake hose. It was covered with a very tough black carbon crud layer. It took a brush and several rounds of simple green and soap plus hot water to get that off the rubber. No idea how it got there, but I assume it's a result of leaked oil cooking on the engine block below.

    [​IMG]
    air filter and throttle body back in

    Next thing was to use Goo Gone on the radiator foam remnants to clean up the mating surfaces. My garage still smells like Goo Gone today. It took at least 5 passes plus soak time on each side to get the old glue off the radiator. Once I bought OEM foam for over $40, then on the second Mini I got smart and just used closed cell tape from Home Depot. Works like a charm, and is possibly tougher than that flimsy OEM foam. You just need to shape it with a sharp knife to fit the odd shape of the top

    [​IMG]
    new radiator foam, closed cell and cheap

    Last job of the day was to install H7 HID bulbs and ballasts in the fog lights. My son's red car has these and at 6000k color temp they blend quite well with the OEM HID low beams. They are also a little brighter, and being fogs they don't do the usual blinding of oncoming cars like low beam conversions. These are easier to mount while that part is off the car, so I did it before the radiator went in.

    [​IMG]
    innovate 35w H7 HID conversion on fogs

    I am going to run wires for the fan resistor mod before it goes back in, more or less cutting out a still functional OEM resistor. It's going to fail eventually, so I'm wiring it up for the remote resistor that is already on order, but won't get here until next weekend.

    I think I'll get most of this buttoned up by the end of the week. The exhaust needs a new resonator that I need to source. Tubing appears to be 60mm, which is rare around here. Summit has all kinds of resonators for a 2.5" pipe but not much for 2.376 or whatever 60mm amounts to. Need to have a talk with the shop that would cut/weld that segment. Even if we just put a pipe in, 60mm is not likely to be on the shelf anywhere in this town.
     
  7. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    #47 agranger, Oct 16, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017
    Do you have a link for a good how-to / info for the resistor mod? It's been on my "I really need to research that" list for a while, as I know I'll need to do it during my excursion into the engine.

    I'm simultaneously dreading and looking forward to the engine clean-up on Rufus. It's seriously nasty under the bonnet. It's gonna be an ugly job, but one that will be rewarding to me in the end. I had the headlights out of the car and, before I put 'em back in, I cleaned everything carefully and coated the rubber/plastic bits with some Zaino tire protectant, my go-to solution for anything rubber/plastic that needs to look tidy and be protected. I keep a handful of disposable foam paint brushes to make for easy application.
     
  8. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    On Jango, I had a Vibrant 'bottle type' resonator welded in to my Alta Sportone exhaust. It deepened the exhaust note and was a great addition.
     
  9. Canusrufis

    Canusrufis RMW Powered R53
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    Coming along nicely. On post #46, first picture, the grey vacuum line coming off PCV valve and into SC you'll want that further into the SC up to the "nub" on the grey hard pipe. Or it'll leak. At least mine did.
     
  10. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    I forgot where I saw it. There are some over on NAM, with pictures.

    It takes a single 0.33 ohm wire wound 100 watt resistor mounted to a surface that can act as a heat sink. Many use the gear box mount, I use the bumper where the air is cooler and the surface area bigger. My mod requires a watertight connector in the wiring if you want to take off the bumper.

    I'll document my mod in the thread in detail so it's all out there.

    My parts list

    resistor http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Green-100-Watt-0-33-Ohm-5-Aluminum-Shell-Wire-Wound-Resistors-L1V8/132349519656

    Some high temp automotive wiring that can handle some load
    I use 14 AWG http://a.co/fEKY4dZ

    wire tubing/flex guard http://a.co/9jqA8us

    several plastic zip ties

    heat sink compound

    2 small mounting screws for the resistor

    heat shrink tubing and appropriate sized wire splice connectors

    watertight connectors for the wire gauge you are using. Many options. I use this type, which I bought when I was thinking of running fog lights mounted to the bumper

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Kit-2-Pin-Way-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-1-5mm-Terminals-HID-20-14-AWG-/252900593047

    these also look good, plus come with protective rubber boots.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Set-2-Pin-Way-AMP-Superseal-IP67-Waterproof-Connector-w-10x-Boots-20-14-AWG-/263246580779

    I think that's all you need. And the moment you turn on that AC even on a cool engine, it won't take long and the fan will kick in, not just when the motor gets too hot. I read somewhere the power steering fan is also controlled by this resistor. If that is the case, the mod/fix will make sure the PS fan runs at much lower temps than with a broken resistor. Turning on the AC definitely does turn on the power steering fan, although I never checked if that comes with or without the resistor in working order.
     
  11. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    well, it came out that way (and locks in place the way it sits there). The inside of the pipe that is inside the SC is dark and oily/dirty so I definitely installed it where it was before. Will double check, though (and compare to the other cars if I can my small USB camera in there without radiator removal :D)
     
  12. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Forgot to post a photo from the fuel filter job. Since I had one Mini die on long mountain grades a few years back because of fuel pressure issues, I replace these things at least every 30k miles from here on. The 30k mile Mini I bought for my son had a scummy black filter, the car that starved of fuel in the mountains had an even blacker fuel filter (and a weak pump, which I also changed out).

    So this car allegedly had been serviced by mechanic ex-husband. The same guy that allegedly changed the super charger oil (of which I found NONE in one chamber). But we know by now that that ex-husband either was no mechanic, or he's the mechanic you don't want to work on your Mini.

    The car showed no sign of anyone ever removing the fuel filter cover. And once I got out that old filter, I think one could argue that this one goes back to the day the car left the factory:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    The end caps on that black filter look rather flimsy... like a cheap, generic replacement. I'd bet it was replaced, but done on the cheap w/ generic parts (and we all know some story of a crappy generic oil filter bombing an engine).
     
  14. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I think the black filter is pretty! I would use it.:D
     
  15. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    I think the black filter works on Rufus, with it's black headlights and all that black trim, you gotta go all the way...

    Been busy again last night. Revisited that PCV vacuum line to the supercharger first. And clearly, it is supposed to sit in there much deeper. But I am positive that is where it was when I pulled it out. It possibly explains all that carbon crud on the engine and rubber air intake to the right of it. My guess is that it was in that position since factory. Photo below shows what it looks like pulled out

    [​IMG]
    crud marks the depth

    I tried hard to get it in deeper, but at first with no success. It was hitting on some ridge inside. Next I sanded the edges of the tube with 1200 grit and used some silicone spray. No progress. Put my thinking hat on and looked at the tool box - normal pliers could possibly break the tube, so that was out of the question, but there are those nifty small hose pliers I got from Harbor Freight a while back. The smallest one still too big, so I added some gaffer tape around the tube. That got me a good grip and it popped right in.

    [​IMG]

    and now the PCV gods are happy again

    [​IMG]
    but now no more carbon blowby from here
     
  16. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Up next was the SC belt. The recommended length for the 17% pulley arrived yesterday. Here it is

    [​IMG]

    I tried real hard to get this one onto the pulleys but even if I had had a helper on the tensioner tool, I don't think you can push it back far enough for this belt to fit unless you are running a slightly smaller crank damper. Went back on the shelf and the old 535 standby I have bought in bulk went on. Perfect fit, lots of tensioner left. 12mm longer but it was a pretty tight fit to get that one on

    [​IMG]

    I have yet to figure out what kind of pulley damper is on the car - it's not the OEM, and it's not anything fancy. Rusty bugger, too. Need to get me a different puller for this when I do swap it out for a good one, but that's not happening now, not knowing what other surprises the car will throw at me. Clearly, this damper has replaced the OEM, or they swapped the part in mid 2005 for a different style.

    [​IMG]
    all it needs now is a nice new damper

    I also came up with a solution to a long standing tensioner tool problem: I can barely use mine with both hands and not have it slip off the fulcrum bolt. No way to pull and lean over to get the pin out by myself. So I wedged a piece of wood against that bolt and bingo - it stays in place and one handed tensioner action is now possible.

    [​IMG]

    And the re-seating of the SC pulley was a full success - the belt runs well-seated on all pulleys within the same plane.

    [​IMG]
    belt now properly aligned
     
  17. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Last I went under the car and tidied up the mount area. Brand new dog bone and next to it the new PS fan (installed this summer under PS recall). Most oil washed off the bottom of the motor.

    [​IMG]

    Other than that, I just cleaned and lubed the hood latches. Looks like the fan resistor is arriving today, so that's up next. After that the radiator can get back on the car. Maybe I'll install the stud conversion and spacers I have laying around as well. These stock wheels look like they can handle the 12mm spacers.
     
  18. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    That's what she said! (sorry... had to do it)
     
  19. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    ^^^^^^:lol::lol::lol:
     
  20. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    A 532 belt is the correct size for a 17% pulley but it is a two man job for most people.

    The key / trick is to put the belt on every pulley except the idler pulley because it does not have a lip. When you are at that point you need a second person to compress the tensioner with everything they have and the belt side on the idler tightly. You or I should say most people including me, cannot put the belt on by themselves. This is very common with a 17% even with a stock size or ATI crank damper (stock size) like I have. You have to compress the damper past the second hole where the holding pin goes. To get the belt on pin it at the second hole and then run the belt like I described above and then get that second person for that extra little push to get the belt over the idler.
     

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