SCCA 2013 DSP - R56 JCW More Experience

I haven't posted much in awhile. Work has just been too intense for the last few months. But, I'm going to do a continuation of the thread I did last year...

http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/autox/12268-scca-2012-dsp-r56-jcw-class-prep-results.html#axzz2Y4q5B6y3

Though the rules for 2013 for DSP have not really changed there are many developments in the rules of other classes that have implications for DSP. I'll label those issues on separate posts so they're searchable as well.

I am also continuing to add to the configuration of the Lenz and making choices that some might find useful plus I've received some good advice via the 2012 thread and hope to get some more.

Along those lines, BThayer23 gave me some advice on wheel studs and spacers that I've implemented and I'm very pleased with the results. I'll post some particulars and pics shortly. Again, I'll try to label each post so it is easy to search.

I've delayed buying a DD but I'm still considering a 2013 2nd gen but waiting to assess the 3rd gen before making up my mind. I'll probably do a separate thread on that subject (and finally expand the STF discussion) if I go the "Justa" route instead of another JCW. Such vacillation.

 

Sneed for Speed Racing STUDS

Since I installed the AST 5100's a couple of years ago and started using Hoosier A6's for autox the inner tire has rubbed on the front struts. I run 225-40-17 A6's at autox and 215-45-17's on the street. A friend gave me a set of 5mm spacers which helped some but I still needed a little more space. The rubbing was worse than I thought.

I decided to go ahead and maximize the spacers without having to change the fenders. While flaring the fenders is allowed in SCCA DSP I don't plan on it. I needed good studs for the job so on recommendation from BThayer23 I bought the SNEED for SPEED set...

MINI Racing Wheel Stud & Lug Nut set for 2002-2006 Hatchback and 2005-2008 Cabrio by Sneed4Speed

and installed 15mm spacers in the front and put the two 5mm spacer in the rear. Here are some pics. I have stiff springs and don't seem to get any rubbing from either tire on the fenders. So I think I have a permanent solution.

I also think I detect a little improvement in handling...but not really sure...but I love the look of a full wheel well.

I had used the TSW stud kit for the past three years and it was over time to change as well.

 

2013 Scores Through June

I ran January and February for two 1st places. My main competitor from last year wasn't there but a couple of the other drivers in DSP are improving their driving and cars...most are MazdaSpeed3's.

Due to work schedule and family I missed March, April and May. I ran in June and got 2nd place out of a field of 10 in DSP. I lost by 0.2 secs. I was a little surprised. When I got home I realized I had forgotten to adjust the AST's. I normally ride at 8 clicks open from closed on the street and 2 or 3 open from closed in autox. I'll remember next time. The guy who beat me is really improving as a driver. Looks like I'll have my work cut out for me this year as well.

I'm only running in the San Antonio club for the annual trophy this year. I don't have time to do the Austin club as well.

 

SCCA New STREET Class (proposed change from STOCK)

"The SCCA Solo Events Board released a proposal that would radically reshape what we now call Stock Class. The proposal includes changes to the allowances for tires, shocks, sway bars and wheels as well as new language to allow for camber adjustment and the disabling of traction and stability control. All totaled, the proposal includes 36 changes to the category, including changing the name from “Stock” to “Street” to be more reflective of the true nature of the class."

"First and foremost, the rules had to allow for dual-purpose cars. This meant that, unlike Street Touring where cars could be dual purpose but generally are not, the category rules had to encourage dual-purpose not just allow the possibility."

So STREET class should accommodate those who want to beef up their mini but compete on street tires...so, "drive your DDer to the site, race, and drive home without changing tires" is much more competitive in the new STREET class than it was in the old STOCK class.

One of the biggest changes is the use of street tires (200+ wear rating) rather than the R-Comp tires traditionally allowed in STOCK.

So, SCCA Classes as of 2014 will be STREET, STREET TOURING, STREET PREPARED, STREET MODIFIED, then PREPARED and MODIFIED. The first class in the new structure authorized to use R-Comps will be STREET PREPARED. So if you want to do the tire change thing to find out the max performance you can get out of your MINI you'll need to compete in the STREET PREPARED class as a minimum. However, the difference between R-Comps and extreme performance tires these days if pretty small.

For MINI drivers there are two popular mods that immediately push you into STREET PREPARED or beyond. For Gen 1's it is the pulley change (moves you to MODIFIED) and for Gen 2 it is the intercooler (moves you to STREET PREPARED).

I think the new class structure makes a lot of sense. Here's an article that explains the whole thing.

Street Category Proposal Explained « SoloMatters

The good news is if you stay away from those two mods you're likely to find a good home in STREET or STREET TOURING where you're now allowed a set of mods that are very commonly desired for everyday modder's for their DDers.

I think this change will likely do two things. The new STREET class will likely grow again. But, it will likely draw folks from the STREET TOURING class. But, also, STREET PREPARED could also grow from those who currently drive in stock class but still want to max traction via R-COMPS.

It looks like Cooper S's and JCW's will compete in D STREET, STX or D STREET PREPARED. Justa's will compete in H STREET, STF or H STREET PREPARED. So, if I get a Justa for a DDer I may end up in H STREET instead of STF depending on how many mods I do.

 

July 2013 Results Update and Tire Techniques

The event Sunday went well for the GreyLenz. We had 148 drivers, 95 Degrees with high humidity and a course with the fastest time at 38 secs. Due to the large number of drivers we ran 4 heats with 4 runs each. I placed 1st in DSP with only three other drivers in the class this time. I placed 35th out of 148 drivers.

At the June event I placed 2nd by 0.2 secs. At this event I took first by a little over 1.0 secs over the same driver I lost to last month. This time I made sure I changed the settings on the AST shocks which I forgot to do last month. I believe that made a big difference. Last month I ran the AST's at 7 open from closed which is my usual street setting. This month I ran 3 open from closed because I remembered to CHANGE THEM this time! The AST's have 10 or 12 clicks available and for the rebound adjustment each step makes a very distinctive difference in the handling.

Just goes to show...checklist and attention to detail!

 

Tire Techniques for Hoosier A6's on Mini

If you want to maximize your performance in DSP you'll need to use A6's or an equivalent r-comp tire. A6's are made specifically for autox and are designed to perform best at a relatively cold temperature as opposed to the R6's which are better suited to higher temperatures on the track.

To keep the temp's cooler for each run in autox many drivers spray water on the tires at the end of each run (on hot days) to bring the temp back down to a fairly cool temp where the A6's are supposed to perform best. If they get too hot they get a bit greasy and lose adhesion. So, like most A6 users I usually have the water sprayer with me and spray between runs. I forgot the bottle this time...again...checklist...checklist...checklist!!!

By the third run the front tires were kinda warm but I don't check temps so I don't know how warm. Usually I would have sprayed. But, a fellow mini driver, who has given me some great coaching before regarding the use of the AST's, said not to worry about spraying down A6's. Their operating temp is actually higher than folks think. Also, because the mini is relatively light...2700 lbs compared to 3200+ lbs for most competitive cars in D classes...he suggested the A6's simply don't heat up enough on a Mini to warrant the attention to temp that other heavier cars need to worry about. I've not heard this before and will attempt to research it a bit. If anyone has input let me know. It sounds reasonable to me. The issue is quite important from a speed perspective since tires are the main ingredient here.

Thoughts?

 

Thanks. You're right. I've thought about getting one for some time and just keep putting it off...I'll go ahead and get one. Getting one with a probe instead of optical sensing is claimed to be a bit more accurate. Given that the A6's don't get that hot the temp diff between outside, mid and inside tread might be too subtle to pick up with the laser version. Thoughts? Of course, either will be very useful for track time.