Engine Drivetrain 2nd Gen S BSH Speed Shop Oil Catch Can (OCC) - Long Term Test / Collection

Discussion in 'Tuning and Performance' started by bluefox280, May 11, 2012.

  1. bluefox280

    bluefox280 New Member

    May 9, 2012
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    Mechanical Engineer
    Westminster, CO
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    +12 / 0 / -0
    "...pulling the oil vapor from your R55 / R56 / R57 valvetrain..."

    Background:
    There's been heavy discussion on the N14's positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system and how it seriously influences the result of carbon build-up on the intake valves of the cylinder head. I wanted to systematically test and see if the amount of oil being pulled from the valve cover was based on engine design, or driver technique.

    - Disclaimer -
    As always, I am NOT responsible for the careless acts of others when using this DIY as a reference.
    Basically all of you are smart enough not to stab yourself, the very important wiring, or the paint on your car.
    Be careful and take any precautionary measures that you deem necessary for completing this task.


    Supplies:
    * BSH Spped Shop - Competition Oil Catch Can (#20201011) assembly kit
    * BSH Speed Shop - Direct Dual Boost Tap (#20201102)
    * locktite or hightemp RTV silicone



    Review (Direct Dual Boost Tap):
    Following the outlined details from BSH's website, I started with assembling the billet boost tap housing and fitted the O-rings and the block-off plug. To ensure the seal of the plug, I lightly smeared a layer of RTV silicone on the threads and then snugged it down. Currently at the time of installation, I wasn't planning to run a boost gauge, so I attempted to fit in both of the 1/8"NPT vacuum port plugs. With the billet housing anodized after being fabricated, I could not get the vacuum plugs to properly thread. So bad, that I had to locate a 1/8" thread tap and re-tap and clean the threads to accept the plugs. After cleaning, again I smeared on some RTV silicone and installed the plugs. Fitment of the housing into the passenger side PCV spout was spot on and double o-ring seal was excellent. However the retaining hardware clip needed a quick sanding after being lasered out of stainless; it had some sharp edges and splinters that needed to be removed for installation and fit + finish.

    Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)

    Installation Time: 7
    * very simple to orient direction; however had to clean up threads on housing
    Learning Experience: 8
    * simple, effective - however, BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
    Performance: 10
    * perfectly blocks off the passenger side PCV spout and with no blow-by
    Bang-for-the-Buck: 6
    * it's seems expensive for a lathed / milled piece of aluminum; but that's because I think some of the quality control checks were lacking. If everything was simple from right out the box, this would have seen a higher rating
    Overall Rating: 8.5
    * properly fits within the engine bay and appreciate the black finish to make it not standout


    IMG_2960s.jpg



    Review (Competition Oil Catch Can):
    The can assembly was similar in terms of assembling the billet tap barbs that attach to the driver side PCV spout and the turbo inlet pipe; fit both with the proper o-rings. Similar to the boost tap, no directions were provided in the box, printed them off to have a "quick cheat sheet" near me if thing went south. After removing the OEM PCV tube from the engine, I inserted the adapter barbs. The driver spout adapter went in without a hitch; however the turbo inlet tube adapter needed some serious grunt to put in. The o-rings on the inlet tube adapter were a little to fat and the plastic inlet tube actually cut into the o-rings slicing a small tangental piece. The seal still held after inserting, but the adapter has a small loose-feeling 'wiggle' to it.

    Now, my 2009 model has the available security system with the hood latch sensor mounted to the same mounting place as the catch can. Instead of mounting underneath the mounting tab or underneath the sensor (which would have improperly raised the sensor above the weather sealing), I made a replacement bracket out of 18 guage 304 stainless. Similar to the catch can and the OEM sensor bracket, I cleaned and painted the L-bracket and the new sensor bracket so that would not stand out in the engine bay.
    IMG_7190s.jpg IMG_2963s.jpg

    Once the can was mounted, the plastic tab of the cowl didn't seem to happy about the excess weight. The can kind of 'flapped' around and made me hesitant to continue, as I thought surely a bump impact from the susension may crack this tab off, dropping the can. But I pressed on and installed the push lock tubing. I measured, aligned and cut the tubing to my desired lengths. After installing, the can flopping sensation went away; great! However, now my eyes were distracted by the white imprinted lettering on the hose. I removed the hoses from their connections and wiped them down with acetone; within seconds the white lettering was removed leaving just a clean tube. Re-installed and was content and the appearance.

    Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)

    Installation Time: 8
    * BSH estimates an hour, I spent just under 45 mins.
    Learning Experience: 7
    * complete kit; great craftsmenship, but again BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
    Performance: 9
    * after just a quick drive, I already saw oil collecting in the can
    Bang-for-the-Buck: 8

    * fit and finish of the can is higher than the boost tap assembly; love the wrinkle finish and the detail work
    Overall Rating: 9
    * the final result would pass by even the most picky of on-lookers; assuming you put in some elbow grease to clean up some loose ends.

    IMG_2970s.jpg IMG_7196s.jpg

    Follow up with how-much oil is pulled will be recorded and posted by the end of summer.

    - Erik
     
  2. bluefox280

    bluefox280 New Member

    May 9, 2012
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    Mechanical Engineer
    Westminster, CO
    Ratings:
    +12 / 0 / -0
    Did my first drain on with the BSH oil catch can:

    IMG_0812s.jpg

    Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
    Current Date: 9/10/2011
    Current Mileage: 9107 miles
    Miles since Last Emptied: 567 miles

    Notes:
    - first time to drain out since installation; only removed ~0.5 ounce of oil
    - found out that oil crankcrase was overfilled appoximately ~0.3 quart for first ~250 miles of driving
    - removed excessive oil and catch can level seemed to not increase; will confirm with future driving with crankcase filled to proper level
    - no water condensation found in mixture

    Observation: being in Colorado where the weather stays significantly dry, there was no water condensation within the can, rubber lines, or the oil mixture. Car is driven on 20+ min trips with no short trip occurding to make sure engine is up to running temp for a good portion of being out. It was noted that the oil level was higher than the max reading on dip stick, and oil had been collecting right away in the OCC. After removing the excess oil in the crankcase, it appeared that the level (through the OCC dipstick) never increased after such. To confirm, I'll follow up with results making sure the crankcase is not overfilled.

    My preliminary thoughts: overfilled crankcases could be part of the reason of intake valve carbon build-up.

    - Erik
     
  3. bluefox280

    bluefox280 New Member

    May 9, 2012
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    Mechanical Engineer
    Westminster, CO
    Ratings:
    +12 / 0 / -0
    Completed the second drain on the BSH oil catch can:

    IMG_0119s.jpg

    Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
    Current Date: 4/1/2012
    Current Mileage: 10557 miles
    Miles since Last Emptied: 1450 miles

    Notes:
    - winter driving produced much more water condensation due to increased humidity and lower dew point
    - the semi-clear fluid is discolored water, the opaque tan fluid is the result of a chemical reaction involving the oil vapor with water condensation (very frothy)
    - engine oil in crankcase was up to level (no overfilled) at all times; no oil consumption to report

    Observation: was a semi wet and cooler Colorado winter. Car is driven on 20+ min trips with no short trips occurring to make sure engine is up to running temp for a good portion of being out.

    Thoughts: increased humidity and lower dew point was the cause of the water condensation when the engine cooled after running.

    - Erik
     
  4. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

    Dec 4, 2010
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    Thanks for the info. Very interesting.

    The one observation I see here is that you need to drive that car more often. It needs miles on it. :biggrin5: :devil:
     
  5. bluefox280

    bluefox280 New Member

    May 9, 2012
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    Mechanical Engineer
    Westminster, CO
    Ratings:
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    Definitely working on it; the Clubman isn't my primary vehicle just yet...

    - Erik
     
  6. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    Oct 23, 2010
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    I have 11,000 miles on my MINI I have six other cars that need love too.

    Dave
     
  7. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: I have the exact same set up on Margi(08 R56 MCS/JCWm N14) and I get similar results except, I get 1-2oz(with plenty of condensed vapor) every ~200mi Spring, Fall, and Winter. I get less in the Summer. In the Summer I get mainly the 'black stuff' with no white vapor condensation. I installed mine at ~ 33kmi and got to see the intake valves at 49kmi when MINI changed a head gasket. The valves/chambers/piston tops were all as clean as a whistle. Still though, I use Seafoam every 3kmi(3oz through the intake and 13oz in the gas tank) as recommended by Matt Richter (Dr Obnxus) of MC2 magazine fame. I whole heartedly recommend the BSH set up as you've described.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  8. Worldlygent

    Worldlygent New Member

    Aug 18, 2010
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    #8 Worldlygent, May 12, 2012
    Last edited: May 12, 2012
    2007 MCS w/ Catch Can

    Greetings All,

    I have the exact same catch can. I've had it for 3 months and only have gotten a few teaspoons of water gunk and haven't really noticed any change in the water level water since the first day or so. In retrospect, I have no reason to believe my valves were affected but it doesn't seem to hurt. Although initially very worried about pitch black oil with enormous consumption (1/3-1/2 qt every tank fill (2 weeks) I have accepted the lose tolerance on engine rings and the turbo are most likely the culprit. Its odd though I don't have any leaks or smoke or smells and it doesn't appear to be cooking off on the engine anywhere either. I'd hoped the catch can would help with the black oil but it hasn't. Similarly, I hear problems about the turbo oil line on the N14 model but don't have any symptoms of coking or lack of oil. The timing chain and tensioner were changed about a year ago and had no affect on the black or high consumption oil. (A rant for another time) Additionally, I've had the coolant tank and tubes changed and there apparently is a very slow leak on the water pump seal. I used to put about 1/2 cup in a month or so but now it seems to have resolved itself. So, although my personality wants it to be perfect, these "flaws" appear to be minor and the solutions will be either very costly or worse than the original problem. Overall, I like my Mini but for god's sake, I hope they upgrade from the cheap ass plastic knobs and parts!!! BTW, the dealers (I've been to 3) have been good overall but I was surprised they either didn't know or want to reveal the black oil "problem". And don't get me started on brakes!
     
  9. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: Do you also have the BSH tap/block off ? If you only have the OCC and not the tap then you only catch half of the blow by and the other half goes into the combustion chamber.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  10. Worldlygent

    Worldlygent New Member

    Aug 18, 2010
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    UPDATE: To answer Jason's question, I now use the block off. In the last two months I get about a half cup of oil / water / foam in the OCC every gas tank fill up (~440 miles) and use about 1/2 quart of oil. I'm wondering if there is a very slow leak of coolant into the engine but the dealer apparently doesn't know how to do a dye test because they were perplexed by my situation. Although the dealer has been good to me, I don't have confidence since the mechanic didn't really know what the block was for. My Mini doesn't seem to have any coking of the turbo oil line (just had them install the heat shield). As for carbon build up on the values, I'm not sure but my oil is always black. Heavier weight oil did not help it from being consumed (I don't smoke or smell burning oil or see any drips). I do have a very slow coolant leak that the dealer thought was at the water pump. However, I wonder if it's internal. The dealer now thinks my high oil consumption is due to the clogged valve cover. I'm unclear of exactly the relationship between high oil consumption and valve cover. Any ideas?
     
  11. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: Just looking through the threads/posts, the are a lot of MINIs whose valve cover gaskets have sprung leaks and required replacement.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  12. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    Oct 23, 2010
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    The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is integral with the valve cover on our MINIs, if there were something wrong with the PCV valve, it could cause high oil consumption.

    Dave
     
  13. Worldlygent

    Worldlygent New Member

    Aug 18, 2010
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    Update 2: OCC, Oil Consumption & Coolant

    Had Scandinavian Imports of Rockville replace the valve cover and fix another "crack" in the Thermostat which is apparently plastic, and now a few thousand miles later, is leaking.

    In the mean time I removed the OCC block and oil consumption dropped from 1.5+qt to 2/3 or 3/4qt every oil change. Also, my hose going to the turbo doesn't work itself off every week or so after removing the OCC block. But, I still have high oil consumption although less. Any good answers for this?

    The coolant has goop or what appears to be a cream colored lotion in the reservoir after adding some old Havoline coolant as it's leaking.

    Mini of Alexandria did a compression test but they said it's ok. After visual inspection of coolant they want to replace the oil cooler housing for ~$700. If the Havoline coolant caused the frothy coolant, then I'm at a loss for the high oil consumption. Any ideas??
     
  14. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
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    From your description of what is in your coolant tank it sure sounds like oil in the coolant. The oil cooler housing is a likely candidate.
     
  15. bluefox280

    bluefox280 New Member

    May 9, 2012
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    Mechanical Engineer
    Westminster, CO
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    Fourth (4rd) drain on my BSH oil catch can:

    IMG_0500s_zpsaqrrxuod.jpg

    Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
    Current Date: 1/17/2016
    Current Mileage: 24460 miles
    Miles since Last Emptied: 10547 miles

    Notes:
    - last emptying was over 4+ years ago (November 2012)
    - multiple snow seasons produced very heavy water condensation
    - semi-clear fluid is discolored (oxidized rust) water is on the bottom layer
    - the milky tan layer is the result of a chemical reaction involving the oil vapor with condensation
    - dark brown top layer is oil.
    - engine oil in crankcase was up to level at all time, and four (4x) oil changes were in the period since last drain.

    Observation: car was in periods of storage / unused during this session.
    When in use car was driven on longer trips along with 20+ min daily grind to the office including weekend road tips (1-2 hour drive time).

    Thoughts: nothing new to report; steadily watching collection of fluids.

    - Erik
     

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