1st Gen R53 Cooper S Transmission failure?

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by fhtagn, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

    Sep 22, 2014
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    Hey. Thanks in advance to anyone reading this and offering advice. I'm kind of at a loss on what to do next.

    The scenario: 2003 MCS. I had just replaced my axles as there was an odd vibration from the front that varied on car speed. The CV boots were cracked bad, and so I assumed that the joints were going out. After having just finished the replacement, I started the car to pull out of my garage. It went into gear, I felt the clutch engage and started to pull forward, when there was an odd sound, and then the car wouldn't go into gear. What I mean by that is though I could move the shifter, and it both sounded and felt as if it was actuating into whatever gear I was shifting it to, when I let out the clutch, there was no clutch engagement. This led me to think that maybe the sound I had heard, either the one when driving or the odd noise when trying to pull from the garage, was the flywheel bearing. So I ordered a full clutch replacement kit, the Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit, as well as a new clutch master and slave cylinder, and one of the shifter cables as I messed up the rubber end when disconnecting it from the tranny. I just finished replacing all of those parts, and fired up the MINI to test it out when I find that the symptoms are still there, and haven't changed at all...other than now I also have some issue with the car thinking it is overheating. Right when I fired it up, the high speed fan came on immediately and the gauge on the inside has the needle pegged on overheated. So I assume that I hooked up a sensor wrong or something. Could I have messed something up when I replaced the axles? Could I have not bled the cylinders correctly? Is the transmission just toasted?

    Anyways, long story made shorter. I am trying to decide the next step. The symptoms: When I let off the clutch, it won't engage. The shifting mechanism feels perfect. The clutch arm on the transmission seems to be moving when you depress the clutch, so I assume that the clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder setup is fine. I mean if the clutch pedal wasn't moving the throwout bearing and freeing up the clutch from the flywheel, wouldn't I not be able to shift it into gear without it jerking?

    Lots of words. Thanks to anyone who read them all and wants to offer some advice.
     
  2. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Check to see if maybe one of the splined axle shafts might have popped out of the side of the transmission axle carrier... It's happened to others...
     
  3. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Welcome to M/A the FUN Mini site. :Thumbsup:

    Question #1:

    What axles did you use? OEM, DSS (Drive Shaft Shop) or some eBay/ Rock Auto axles?

    They are not all the same and the cheaper the part the more of a chance of failure.
     
  4. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

    Sep 22, 2014
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    eBay. =/ I had to remove them when I changed the clutch. They seemed undamaged. You bring up a point that I'm embarrassed to admit. I assumed that the parts were correct because they seemed to be exactly what I pulled off, and they fit into the transmission and lined up with the mounting brackets perfectly...but I never actually set them side by side and compared the splined end that goes into the transmission. They did slide into the trans perfectly, and the same on the hub end. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try and put the old ones on for just a bit to see if they work. Obviously not with the intent of continued use, but to see if the new ones are the source of failure.
     
  5. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

    Sep 22, 2014
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    No. They seem to be seated properly, but thank you for the idea.
     
  6. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #6 Dave.0, Sep 22, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
    Here you go, these have been in my and 2 friends cars a few years and are better built (CV) than OEM. We all have R53 S's and they are far from OEM power. :ihih::devil:

    They fit correctly and will hold up. The next step up are real RACE axles from Jan at RMW. $$ but they are worth it.

    $400.00

    The Driveshaft Shop | Mini 2001-2006 Cooper S Basic Axle Level 0 - Mini - Import Axles

    These are the new Level 0 performance axles. Using a chromoly center bar, a real billet inner cv with a larger oversized tripod and a new heat treat on our 1117 billet outer. The outer cv is custom made with a single arc design; this is a time/wear advantage over the factory dual arc design that tends to wear out prematurely. This is a superior axle for any stock replacement or swap. These axles are designed as an alternative to cheap re-builts or inferior aftermarket axles on the market today. It is a quality axle and better than any reman axle, it's just not what we would consider a real racing axle (sorry no warranty against breakage). If you don't see axles you need just email us, we can make anything. Price listed is for both left and right axles.

    **Please Note: Does not include bearing carrier bracket for intermediate shaft (must be transferred from your OE axle)**


    Part Number: RA1001L0/RA1002L0
     
  7. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    And BTW #2, you cannot buy that intermediate bearing anywhere in the US except by getting it with a new axle assembly - UNLESS - you go to the OEM source in Poland and import them directly (what I did for a friend's '02 Cooper S. They were only $22 but it took a month to get them)
     
  8. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

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    Thank you for that link. I will definitely use those for my next driveshafts. However regarding the current situation I have, I am inclined to think that the driveshafts I put in are sound. I just tossed the MINI up on jackstands and disconnected the driver's side shaft from the wheel hub. Turning the shaft by hand, I could hear and feel the gears in the transmission turning. So it seems that the shafts, or at least the one I tested, are connecting to the transmission fine. When I had them out to change the clutch, they also looked fine then. So it seems to me that the disconnect is something else. I went ahead and bled the slave cylinder again and it seemed to improve the peddle feel, but until I can get the car jumped to start it (it has sat way too long as I try and fix it), then I won't know if that made any different. I guess I could/should also try shifting the transmission manually at the linkage arm on the trans itself? Though the feel of the shifter and the sounds of it engaging the linkage seem normal. I did replace one of the cables when I was changing the clutch, as I busted the rubber when removing it from the trans side linkage. =/

    So thank you for the link on the driveshafts, and bookmarked the site to get them next time, but wouldn't it seem that they aren't my current issue if I can rotate one of them manually and hear the gears turn in the trans?

    And if i were to have improperly bled the slave cylinder, wouldn't I simply not be able to get it in gear at all, as the clutch wouldn't be freed up from its compression between the flywheel and pressure plate?

    I'm loving working in this car. I grew up helping my dad rebuild a couple of old British cars ('64 Triumph TR4 and '68 Jaguar S Type). I just wish I could fix it. =)
     
  9. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

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    Oh...and thanks for the welcome Dave! This site does seem to have a lot more information, and fun.
     
  10. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Welcome to M/A
     
  11. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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  12. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

    Sep 22, 2014
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    Awesome! Thanks again.

    However, do you think that it would be the drive shafts in this case?

    I disconnected one from the wheel hub, and rotated it by hand, and I can hear the gears turning inside the transmission. They seem to be seated properly. While I understand the value of better quality drive shafts, I have some "lesser quality" but new ones already purchased and installed. If I toasted the trans, then that $400 will be needed in replacing it.
     
  13. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Welcome, thanks for joining Motoring Alliance, the FUN and Friendly MINI Community.
     
  14. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Doesn't sound like drive shafts to me. 2003 is the Midlands 5-speed tranny, yes?
    Those are known to fail... much less robust than the Getrag 6-speed.
     
  15. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

    Sep 22, 2014
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    It is a 6 speed Getrag.
     
  16. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

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    Thanks Nathan!
     
  17. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Welcome to MA. Try putting it on jack stands put it in gear and release the clutch to see if the wheels move. If so go through another gear and check it. See if you hear the sound. Also look at the splines inside the transmission to see if they are ok.

    Make sure the car is stable on the stands and no one is in front of the car. Don't give it gas just check the operation of the moving parts with no weight on them.
     
  18. fhtagn

    fhtagn New Member

    Sep 22, 2014
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    Ok. Just did that...minus the removal of the drive shafts to evaluate the splines in the transmission as that will need to await when I have more time.

    What I found: It seems that clutch and shifter are fine. What leads me to believe that is that, with the car on jack stands and running, when I have someone depress the clutch and shift into gear(s), you can hear something engaging in time with the depression of the clutch. The arm attached to the clutch fork is moved by the slave cylinder and you can hear what seems to be the clutch released and then engaged as the pedal is depressed and released. There are minor sounds in the transmission accompanying the shifts, yet there is no movement to the wheels, and I can spin them freely while the car "thinks" it is in gear.

    I'll let you guys know what I find when I remove the drive shafts.

    Thanks again.
     
  19. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    the wheels don't move with the car in gear? That's not good. Check the splines in the trans. I hope you don't have a striped input shaft. But I think this is unlikely.
     
  20. myles2go

    myles2go Active Member

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    Assuming your clutch is functioning correctly, you need to pull the transmission and split the case open to find out what is broken.
     

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