2nd Gen R56 Cooper S School me on tie rods

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by Apok, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. Apok

    Apok New Member

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    #1 Apok, Mar 27, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
    So I just got back from my local tire discounters trying to get an alignment. So I sit there for about an hour and a half and notice a few times that I don't see anyone working on my car. Guy finally comes out and tells me they can get anything to adjust because the tie rods are seized up. They sprayed it with lb blaster,tried heat and had no luck. And of course they want nearly $700 to do the job. UGH!

    So I figure me and my buddy can do the work. But I'm wondering how much of a pain in the asus will this be? I found the inner and outters for a pretty good deal vs OEM parts.

    So oh great gurus, what am I in for?

    Almost forgot. 2010 Cooper S.
     
  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I have not done them on a Mini yet but have on other cars. It is not a hard job. Make sure and measure the length of the on ones the car before you take them off so you can adjust the new ones close enough to drive it to have it aligned without harming your tires.
     
  3. mrntd

    mrntd Well-Known Member
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    It's not a hard job to do. As MCS02 said just measure or mark the ones that are on there to get the starting distance close.

    It sounds like the most difficult thing you'll have is getting the old ones off. So have the standard solutions ready to try. Penetrating oil, Coke, heat... Make sure the oil if cleaned off before hitting it with a torch or you'll have a different problem.
     
  4. Apok

    Apok New Member

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    Oh yeah, just what I need, set the ***** on fire, lol.

    I know they hosed them down with PB Blaster, and they asked I bring it back in so they can try again. Hopefully that will work. If I don't NEED new ones, then all the better. But I figured it couldn't hurt to ask if its a difficult repair. I need access to a damn lift is what I need.
     
  5. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #5 Dave.0, Mar 28, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2017
    Yes I had that same problem once before. They rust together and world not move. Most time they break when you try to move them even with PD blaster or torch.

    I ordered a new OEM set, inner and outer, and had them both replaced.

    FYI use this on them once a year and you will not have anymore problems. Our snow plow guys treat everything with it to protect from salt and snow. They spray it under the entire truck with spray guns and they buy it in 5 gallon buckets.

    Fluid Film As11 Fluid Film 11.75oz Spray Cans

    https://www.amazon.com/As11-Fluid-Film-11-75oz-Spray/dp/B00PWZ0XNM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1490714888&sr=8-12&keywords=rust+inhibitor

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Apok

    Apok New Member

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    I love that stuff. It really is the best.


    But that make me nervous to take it back and let them try again. Cause if they break one or both, Im pretty much stuck letting them do it. And Id much rather just do the work. Guess I better call my buddy and tell him we have a job to do.
     
  7. CarlB

    CarlB Active Member

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    Tie rod ends fit in a tapper and all the penetrating oil in the world will not make any difference to removing them. Remove the nut and hit the side of the steering arm with the ball end of a hammer, or go to Harbor Freight and get a tie rod tool. MINIs only have outer tie rods. The inner pivot is a ball and socket and part of the steering rack. Is the rubber boot on the steering rack broken? If not the inner pivot is probably OK. Tie rod ends do not normally lock up. They ware out and get loose. Put a jack under the lower control arm and get the tire off the ground. if the tie rod end is bad you will be able to move the wheel back and forth. you can check the inner pivot at the same time. If the wheel steers without the steering wheel moving check the inner and outer pivot. If the wheel and steering wheel move with no play there isn't a problem. get something you can use as a lever and put it under the wheel. If you can move the tire without moving the suspension you need ball joints.
     
  8. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    My R53 has inner an outer tie rods. You can buy them at the dealership like I did.
     
  9. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    You have almost fallen victim to the Tire Discounter scam. Free alignment with tire purchase, free for $700 in this case. I won't use them. Discount Tire is who I buy tires from.

    If you want an alignment use North End Wrench, good people. They are not cheap, but they do know what they are doing & will do a custom alignment if you want. If you need a new tie rod they can do it & I'll bet it won't be $700. Give them a call.
     
  10. Zapski

    Zapski Well-Known Member

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    I just used a BFW (big freaking wrench) to remove mine and was able to manage.

    Got the replacement parts at Rock Auto.
     
  11. Torq

    Torq New Member

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    First find out if the ends are bad. If not get a propane torch, jack the car up and heat the locking nut until very hot and use a monkey wrench not a pipe wrench with teeth that mess up the flats on the nut. Be sure to shield the end of the ball joint from the heat where the boot is or you'll melt it. Were that to happen you can buy replacement ball joint polyurethane boots on Amazon for about $11 for the pair. On the other hand, if they are bad order the inner and outer as a set from Rock Auto for about $62 a side or just the outers for about $25 a side and replace them. Use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle only if you know that you're replacing the part as it usually tears the boot. If replacing just the outers count the number of turns it takes to remove the old part and then install the new part the same number of turns. I usually coat the threaded rod and nut threads with anti-seize to make future adjustments easier. As usual, please use stands, be safe and anytime you remove a nut on a suspension part that is not mechanically retained by a locking device replace it with a new one.
    Purchase your parts where ever you like as this was not a plug. Hope you have success.
     
  12. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Just buy new ones they are not that expensive and do the job your self. All this crap about saving them is not worth the time and effort.

    The key part is protecting them from rusting in the first place.

    Fluid Film As11 Fluid Film 11.75oz Spray Cans

    https://www.amazon.com/As11-Fluid-Fi...rust+inhibitor
     
  13. Zapski

    Zapski Well-Known Member

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    Truth. Each assembly, inner and outer, is about $60 ~ $70 Not counting the one needed tool and the boots.

    I just did mine last year and it really wasn't that bad. Same reason as you too - alignment couldn't be done for the same problem.

    I also put in new end links at the same time to replace the skinny OEM ones for something that doesn't flex. Those ran about $20 each if I recall correctly.
     
  14. Apok

    Apok New Member

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    I'd have to check my tablet, but I wanna say I found them at a somewhat local place for $70 for inner and outer. So maybe Ill just do that.


    I had got my new tires at Discount Tire here at Easton, managed to get the manager to hook me up since I'm part of our lovely group, and paid nearly $300 less that tire discounters and their "free" alignment. I just went to them to get the alignment because they arent far from my house.
     
  15. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Stay away from them, your life will be easier. Can I ask why you need an alignment? Are your tires wearing badly?
     
  16. Apok

    Apok New Member

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    Got a bit of a wobble going on the front end. Started before the new tires, but seems to have persisted.
     
  17. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    A wobble sounds like a worn out part not necessarily an alignment. Have you checked the wheel bearings?
     
  18. Apok

    Apok New Member

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    Bearing on that side was just changed, maybe two years ago. So I would seriously hope it isn't that again already.
     

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