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Unread 11-13-2017, 11:30 AM #1
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Gen 1 PS Issues

Looking to tap into some of that vast wisdom and knowledge that is floating around out here. The GP pretty much has been up on jack stands since May. Started out as a suspension swap and has turned into multiple side projects along the way. The newest one is the power steering pump.
I had issues with it at the beginning of the year and tore it down and cleaned out what I could. Plumbed it back in the system and worked fine. This latest go around happened after I replaced the coolant overflow tank. Got it on the ground and had intermittent power assist. So back up it went and bleed the system and also noticed my battery light was on. Well, after bleeding the system the PS decided it just didn’t want to play anymore. Frustrated I let it sit a few days while I cooled off and did a little more research. I found another how to article and decided to take it completely down to the circuit board, mainly to see if anything burned up or broke, found nothing. It was a little dirty so I cleaned it all up and put it back together. As I mentioned it was a few days so of course the battery was dead when I went to test it out. Hooked it up for a charge and it was taking way to long, over a full day and was not completely charged. So I purchased a new battery and hoped for the best. Still no PS and that pesky little battery light was still there.
So I have given in and purchased another power steering pump with hope that I will have the GP back on the road again this year. I was wondering if anyone that has had issues in the past with their power steering pump had noticed that little battery light was on at the same time. It being strictly electric I am making an assumption there is an issue somewhere in the circuitry and it is drawing excessively from the battery giving me the light.

Thoughts?
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Unread 11-13-2017, 12:58 PM #2
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Gen 1 PS Issues
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There's a 100Amp fuse in the engine bay UNDERNEATH the fuse box. If its open circuit, it might be the problem. Take the fuse completely out and test for continuity. I spent a month tracking mine down to this --- and had the same problem you describe. I believe it connects to the alternator too thus the battery light. Mini sells the fuse for $7 last I checked. Good luck.


FL4 is the one you're trying to find.
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Unread 11-13-2017, 01:35 PM #3
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I never saw that light when my pump was giving me trouble. Took it out, opened it up, cleaned it out, back in and no more issues. No issues with the pump, that is, later I had bad seals in the rack, etc, but the pump was fine and no battery light.

Assuming things work after you fitted the new pump, that big 100 amp fuse must be fine.

Did you take MINI up on the offer of a free replacement pump? https://www.motoringalliance.com/for...ion-minis.html
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Unread 11-13-2017, 02:50 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canusrufis View Post
There's a 100Amp fuse in the engine bay UNDERNEATH the fuse box. If its open circuit, it might be the problem. Take the fuse completely out and test for continuity. I spent a month tracking mine down to this --- and had the same problem you describe. I believe it connects to the alternator too thus the battery light. Mini sells the fuse for $7 last I checked. Good luck.


FL4 is the one you're trying to find.
After I put the pump back in the second time and nothing happened I was really hoping it was this fuse. I found it after I read Steve's write up on the PSP. What a PITA to get to. I did check it and it was fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Assuming things work after you fitted the new pump, that big 100 amp fuse must be fine.

Did you take MINI up on the offer of a free replacement pump? https://www.motoringalliance.com/for...ion-minis.html
Hoping the new pump comes in today, wont be able to get dirty until Wednesday or Thursday though.
Thanks for the link, I have read through it a few times before and I am hosed because my build date is after 2005. I have not found anything that describes the difference between a PSP on a 2005 S to a PSP on a 2006 S. Part numbers are the same. I guess I could plead my case with MINI, I just want to get it back on the road.
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Unread 11-13-2017, 06:11 PM #5
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Ok I had this happen also with the battery light coming on.

The fix was my alternator dying slowly and the first thing it stops powering is tje PS pump to protect it from over heating.

Seeing as your battery was dead I would bet it was not getting charged and shut down the PS pump to protect it.

I thought mine was the pump and took it in for the recal and found out my second alternator was failing. I replaced the OEM one with a cheaper Denso which did not last that long. Word of advice only instal a new pricy OEM alternator in your GP.

Your GP and my 2005 JCW late year build have the same updated PS pump. It is not the pump.

Good luck with your repair.
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Unread 11-14-2017, 11:13 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave.0 View Post
Ok I had this happen also with the battery light coming on.

The fix was my alternator dying slowly and the first thing it stops powering is tje PS pump to protect it from over heating.

Seeing as your battery was dead I would bet it was not getting charged and shut down the PS pump to protect it.

I thought mine was the pump and took it in for the recal and found out my second alternator was failing. I replaced the OEM one with a cheaper Denso which did not last that long. Word of advice only instal a new pricy OEM alternator in your GP.

Your GP and my 2005 JCW late year build have the same updated PS pump. It is not the pump.

Good luck with your repair.
Thanks for the info Dave. When I read Canusrufis' reply yesterday I remembered reading that the PSP ran off the alternator and it got me wondering about my issue. It all makes sense though, I guess I'll return the PSP, pull the alternator off and have it tested this week. You weren't kidding about the "new pricy OEM" were you? I thought a new PSP was pricy!
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Unread 11-14-2017, 03:37 PM #7
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Yeah the OEM Alternator is not a cheap part but it is better then the cheap Denso. Which only lasted me a little over a year or so.

My original OEM one had a cracked housing and that’s why I replaced it.
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Unread 11-26-2017, 06:21 PM #8
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Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice given, especially Dave O. I pulled the alternator and this is what I found...

https://www.motoringalliance.com/for...1&d=1511734071

I pretty sure this happened when I was sandwiched between a CrapStang and a cop car. Looking at it I am really surprised it lasted this long. Anyway had it tested and it was dead. Replaced it over the holiday and GIR made blacktop.
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Unread 11-26-2017, 07:30 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GokartPilot View Post
Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice given, especially Dave O. I pulled the alternator and this is what I found...

https://www.motoringalliance.com/for...1&d=1511734071

I pretty sure this happened when I was sandwiched between a CrapStang and a cop car. Looking at it I am really surprised it lasted this long. Anyway had it tested and it was dead. Replaced it over the holiday and GIR made blacktop.
Cool you got it fixed. My OEM one broke in the exact same place.
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Unread 11-26-2017, 07:37 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave.0 View Post
Yeah the OEM Alternator is not a cheap part but it is better then the cheap Denso. Which only lasted me a little over a year or so.

My original OEM one had a cracked housing and that’s why I replaced it.
Its funny you mentioned the DENSO. I took the alternator to a rebuild shop for testing and they said a DENSO was highend compared to what they normal use as replacements.
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