Well, I was pretty excited the day I got my MINI (and I still am!). But now after 1,500 miles, I feel like MINI should have added a couple of more gauges. But maybe that's part of the minimalism approach? I just ordered some marked down Stewart Warner gauges from 42 Draft Designs Clearance. The silver gauge faces look very similar to the factory MINI speedometer and tach. I also picked up some of their orange led replacement bulbs for the gauges to match the factory orange lighting. I'm wondering how best to connect the gauge lighting to the MINI's instrument dimmer. Is there an easy way to do this? I'm sure someone has done this on a generation 2. Any suggestions before I start removing instrument panels and digging in would be greatly appreciated.:aureola: Thanks in advance!
I saw something where Garmin is coming out with a plug and play that will put all the guages you want right on your GPS screen via blue tooth. It is simular to Scanguage II, but much cleaner and no wiring to be done. I believe it should be availabe after the first of the year. Jim
as for the dimmer. take a look at a guage install PDF like on Altas website... I think you tap into the switch illumination for the Sport button area.. If im not mistaken, those dim w the car.
Thanks, iwashmycar I'm still pondering the gauge mounts / location. I was thinking it would be easy to tap into the supply that dims the lights in the tach, since the gauges will be located close by.
problem there is you dont actually take that apart usually. inside is just like a big motherboard or something anyway. Dont use the Alta pods FYI... too flimsy
Thanks! I assumed that, since they look like they are made from plastic. I sort of like the flex pod (anodized aluminum). I'm wanting to close off the back of the mounts (as seen through the windshield). I see one of the companies had some plastic caps to do this. I'm not sure that's the look I'm after. Since I own a custom fabrication company, I'll probably take a shot at making my own. If it turns out, I'll take some pic's and share with MA for input / suggestions.
yea just make something like those. I guess with SW gauges you may want it capped, but with the Prosports you cannot see anything. Its tough to see down there anyway from the exterior. have seen the VIP one? http://www.vipcustomparts.com/minicooperparts.htm
Well I finally finished making my custom gauge bracket. It's all welded up but not connected to the MINI internals. I intend to leave it like this for about a week to see if I need to make any changes before I send it off to the powder coater. Here are some pic's I took with my I-phone, sorry about the quality. Raw aluminum purchased from a local scrap dealer. Turning gauge cup on my metal lathe. Finished FES shift light and 52mm gauge cup. Installed with 3 screws on back of the tachometer. Test fitting prior to having the assembly powder coated.
After getting my R56 I know what everyone meant by not having gauges. I wanted a gauge that was amber back lit and it needed to look good in the MINI somewhat OEM. After talking with Marshalls Instruments and custom mini shop the new gauges were installed. I started with 2 then went to 3 and finally 4. Lots of pictures are in my gallery and garage.
Do you have a link to all your gauges...And mounts..I would really like to duplicate this...Looks awesome
I got my gauges from Custom Mini Shop, they are the Marshall Mini gauge's and the Craven mounting system. Steve at Custom Mini Shop 559-320-0004 has the gauges and mounting hardware.
It wasn't hard to make. I already had the 2" ABS and the aluminum in my junk pile. It took me four tries, making card board patterns, to get the gages placed, so I could see them through the steering wheel. After that, I just traced the pattern onto the aluminum with a Sharpie and cut it out with a scroll saw. I dressed the edges with a file and a 80 grit sand flap wheel on a drill motor. I bent the bracket a little so that the gages were in the same plane as the tachometer. I also bent the mounting tab in a little so it would be flush with the back of the tachometer. I primed the aluminum with zinc chromate primer and painted it with semi gloss black. The ABS sewer pipe, I polished and waxed to match the semi gloss on the bracket. I cut down a sheet metal screw that had the same pitch and diameter as the stock screw, but 1/2" longer to make up for the thickness of the aluminum and the recess in the back of the tachometer housing. I only used the one mounting screw, but it is very solid. Like Metalman, I like to fabricate things, the commercial gage holders seemed a little pricey to me, this one was very easy to make, and it cost me nothing but my own time. Dave
I haven't hooked the gages up yet, CravenSpeed has some sender adapters for water temperature and oil pressure, but I think they are too expensive for what they are. I've already found a water temperature tap for less than half the cost of the CravenSpeed tap, but am having trouble finding an oil pressure sender adapter. I know I could turn one out easily on a lathe, it is threaded as M16x1.5, but I don't have access to a lathe anymore. I think I could also connect the oil temperature sender to the oil pressure adapter. I really don't want to put the temperature probe in an oil drain plug adapter. I already have a BSH Direct dual boost tap so I can connect my boost gage there. How have others connected their gage senders? Thanks, Dave
OK..... I have the BSH boost tap for my connection to the boost gauge. This was much easier to get to than the common location back by the intake manifold. My FES shift light goes to the OBDII connection. And that's it for me. Sorry.... Chuck
:cornut:I just came in on the thread but, yes, I have. Although it's Scan Gauge II soooo.....I don't have oil pressure as the R56 ECU doesn't monitor oil pressure/temp. GO FIGURE??? Was it dark where that design engineer's head was at? Oil pressure is so trivial, "pas de l'important" the Peugeot French engineer said dismissively as he remembered that he had forgotten that very important detail of engine monitoring but wanted to save face instead of correcting the problem(feel free to correct my pidgin French Lotsy and Goaljnky). So will you be able to make it such that the gauge lights automatically come on with all the other dash lights and are the same color? Just curious, that was one reason why I went with the Scan Gauge II AND yes the PRICE of real gauges/sensors/wire routing/synchronization of lighting.........cost/labor/frustration were through the roof.:mad2:. Jason opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:
Dave, I started off with the Marshall's electric boost/vac gauge and the Alta boost port adapter and ended up changing to the set up you see below. I went to the BSH product to force more air through the Oil Catch Can and took the Alta adapter out. If anyone is interested I can ship them the Alta adapter for $25 plus shipping. I went with the Craven products and yes you might find cheaper out there but I wanted something that would work and get the gauges in quickly. Good fit, look and functionality made for a great mod that keeps me informed while I play. The prices of the adapters and the gauges when compared with blowing an engine is relatively small... Marshall Gauge’s • 7411 - Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (mechanical) • 7421 - Voltmeter, 0-18V (electric) • 7433 - Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (electric) • 7434 - Water temperature, 100-260°F (electric) Craven Speed Works • CR-MC-0001-A A Frame Bracket (2-4 Gauges) • CR-MC-0063 Hot Link (For Water Temp Gauge) • CR-MC-0001-J Dual Pod Adapter • CR-MC-0005 Single 52mm Gauge Cup • CR-MC-0075 Y adapter (for putting 2 single cups/adapters on a side) BSH • Direct Dual Boost Tap (For Vac Boost Gauge) Steve at Custom Mini Shop phone number in my signature has all these items in stock and his shipping price is extremely reasonable.