2nd Gen JCW Need Help:Turbo Boost error 2885

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by 05r50, May 28, 2013.

  1. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

    Dec 4, 2010
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    Well, it is time to consult the internet gurus for help. I have been experiencing a symptom since returning from MOTD that I have not been able to determine root cause.

    Currently my 09 JCW is displaying the half yellow engine symbol. The error can be cleared, but it comes back almost immediately when you step on the gas.

    To be clear, I had no problems at MOTD. The week of the 5th I got the error once and cleared it. Came back the next week. Drove to the dealer and it cleared itself by the time I got there. Following week it was back and has stayed.

    I can clear it but it comes back upon acceleration. On ramp, passing in traffic, etc.

    It doesn't go into limp mode, but there is enough of a hesitation that you can feel there is something wrong and then the light comes on.

    The 2885 code states - Charge-air pressure control deviation, plausibility.

    Data I found has many potential causes from vacuum lines for the waste gate actuator, the actuator, the temp/air pressure unit on the intake side, valve cover, even the turbo itself.


    I have had the car at the dealer for the last week and they have been following the BMW flowchart to find root cause. Several parts have been replaced under test but none have isolated the cause.

    Next logical step is to test the waste gate which is pretty labor intensive and I am no longer under warranty or maintenance.

    So, this is where you come in:

    Got any ideas what is causing this?

    P.S. Just last month I had the oil line for the turbo replaced, The valve cover gasket replaced, and walnut blasting. After this I had no errors for 2-3 weeks.
     
  2. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :frown2: No help here so I'll bump you. Good Luck.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  3. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

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    I picked up the car this evening and started to plot my plan for for figuring out why the car is throwing the charge-air pressure deviation error.

    Before I put the car in service mode to get the catalytic converter off to inspect the waste gate for proper operating, I thought maybe I could capture some log date that might be of use. I have a bluetooth OBD2 device and Torque running on my tablet so I hooked it up and took a drive.

    Here is some of the interesting log entries. I could use some education on vacuum and boost so feel free to teach me what I should be seeing.

    I noticed that at idle the vacuum was bout -24. Then when accelerating thru the gears it showed boost and the value topped out at about 10. Even then the boost would fall off drastically even though I still was accelerating and I was not yet in top gear.


    Here are a few of the rows of data for comparison.
    Column 1
    Wed May 29 20:12:33 EDT 2013 -10.88
    Wed May 29 20:12:34 EDT 2013 -2.9
    Wed May 29 20:12:35 EDT 2013 0.29
    Wed May 29 20:12:36 EDT 2013 6.96
    Wed May 29 20:12:37 EDT 2013 8.27
    Wed May 29 20:12:38 EDT 2013 9.72
    Wed May 29 20:12:39 EDT 2013 -10.59
    Wed May 29 20:12:40 EDT 2013 7.11
    Wed May 29 20:12:41 EDT 2013 4.35
    Wed May 29 20:12:42 EDT 2013 3.34
    Wed May 29 20:12:43 EDT 2013 3.19


    As you can see the boost topped out at 9.72 then started falling as I went to the next gear. The boost just kept falling from 7.11 to 3.19.

    Does this point to anything in particular?
     
  4. CHKMINI

    CHKMINI Club Coordinator
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    Either the waste gate is not operating (open and close) or the turbo is toast. I would suspect its the turbo but since the waste gate is a $130 part, I would check its operation first.
     
  5. CHKMINI

    CHKMINI Club Coordinator
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    I'm giving this a bump for our good friend Jeff. He needs help with this issue....anyone?
     
  6. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: Me Too !!! This one JUUUUUUUUUST a bit over my head.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  7. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

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    Time for an update.

    The code remains. It clears itself if you drive the car easy, but if I get on the gas it comes right back.

    The next step in the dealer plan was to pull the cat converter to see the wastegate and then operate the gate under manual vac pump to see if it is ok.

    I decided to take the shortcut and use my flexible snake camera and view it from the opening of the top O2 sensor.

    Here is a video of the results.

    Turbo problems on Vimeo

    Take a look at it and tell me if you think this is how it is supposed to look or not. I don't know what it should be. The gate does open and close, but the gate itself is odd looking to me.
     
  8. r34king

    r34king Member

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    That looks pretty worn. Take the intake pipe off of the compressor side and wiggle the shaft. If there is play in the shaft you will need a new turbo. I don't like how much play is in that wastegate flap. Should be pretty tight to the rod. Also look inside the compressor side for scoring marks from the impeller. That will be evidence of a bad turbo as well. Hope this helps
     
  9. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Free bump for Jeff. Good luck buddy.


    FYI the fix is.......





    Wait for it











    Get an R53!
     
  10. cooperjet

    cooperjet Well-Known Member

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    I think Dave is on to something...
     
  11. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Na, I was kind of kidding. :devil::lol:

    Jeff is a great guy and has a very nice JCW. I am sure he will get it sorted and be back ripping up the roads again soon ....even if it is a 2nd Gen. :nonod:
     
  12. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    We are pulling for you Jeff! :fingerscrossed:
     
  13. cooperjet

    cooperjet Well-Known Member

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    I'm definitely pulling for Jeff! Hoping he finds the solution soon.
     
  14. timothdd

    timothdd New Member

    Jun 18, 2015
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    Did you guys ever find a resolution to this issue?

    Last weekend my car just came up with this 2885 code also - I'm just starting down the path of looking into it - any suggestions / best possible path I can start down on this for this issue?
     
  15. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #15 Minidave, Jun 18, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2015
    Mine's been doing this for a while - one of my buddies is a tech at the dealer and he took a quick look-see - my turbo is fine, no play, no score marks, turns freely.

    He said it could be a temp sensor - I have no clue which one but I have observed that temp does make a difference - on really cold days below 20* with the engine warmed up I can romp on the throttle all I want and the car runs normally. As the ambient temps increase (not engine temps) it takes less and less to get it to set the code.

    So I'm following that line of inquiry......

    I assume it's the inlet pressure sensor, but I hate to buy a $100 part without knowing whether it will fix the issue.....and I don't understand why temps affect it unless somehow the intake air temp is part of what it senses.
    Could also be the mass air flow sensor I guess - those are $400+++++

    all I know is that it's frustrating, I hope Jeff finds out what's up with his and it's the same for mine.
     
  16. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    Are there specifications for the voltage or resistance that the sensor should put out over it's temperature range? Maybe you could test it to see if it is bad.
     
  17. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

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    OK, let's see what we can do here. I started off with having the dealer do a diagnosis. Right now, I cannot find the receipt from the dealer but they stepped through all the potentials for the P2885 code that MINI has in the checklist.

    They checked and replaced several elec sensors all of which did nothing. The good thing for me was that I didn't pay for any of these parts. They put my originals back on after each test. Once they eliminated all the elec parts they were down to the turbo. That is where I took over.

    So, I started with easy tests. I bought a hand vacuum pump at the parts store, Attached it to the wastage actuator, ( it is the shiny housing and threaded rod below the turbo with a vacuum house ). Use the hand pump to check to see if the wastegate is holding. (See video above). The wastegate is inside the turbo housing on the exhaust side.

    In order to visually inspect the wastage I purchased a cheap USB flexible scope camera and used my laptop to view inside the turbo. To do this just remove the O2 sensor on the top of the catalytic converter. This will give you a view of the wastegate, the exhaust turbine wheel, the catalytic converter honeycomb.

    In my case the wastegate was clearly broken and not holding vacuum. While it is possible to get just the exhaust housing and not a complete turbo, (Check out JMturbocoopers.com) I found that my turbo had leaking oil seals and was using oil to the intercooler and also the catalytic converter. In the end I replaced the turbo, the IC, and the cat.

    Nathan has been after me for some time to write all this up but I have not gotten around to finishing it. Maybe I will get back on it.


    Ultimately, I let go of that car as it was starting to nickel and dime me with the common N14 problems. As much as I loved that JCW and all that power, I let it go.


    I now have a awesome R53 (Thanks Chuck:beer). Check the link in my sig line.
     
  18. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Thanks for that info, any thoughts on why it seems to have full boost when it's cold out and doesn't set a code (engine fully warmed up)?

    Did you wind up rebuilding your turbo or just replacing it?
     
  19. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

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    At first I was going to replace just the exhaust housing which contained the waste gate . Had the oil seals been ok that would have worked but in the end once it was apart I ordered a full replacement and then returned the exhaust housing.

    Jmturbocoopers was good to work with. Hey will rebuild yours and ship back also.

    I am not schooled in this but will make a guess. Colder air is more dense and therefore will give you more boost because of more air in a confined space. So maybe that is why it feels normal. Part of the reason why the larger aftermarket inter cooler helps. They lower the temp of the air.

    I'm sure if I am wrong someone will be along to set it straight.

    Even when it feels ok, can you force it to go limp by stomping on it and going wide open throttle? I was able to reproduce the cel at will if I jumped on it. I would build boost and then it would drop. I could see it on my scangauge boost.
     
  20. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Yes, when it's cold out it will not set the code even when I'm on it hard - engine warm - ambient cold is what I mean.

    However, above 50* ambient, all it takes is a good push and it sets the code immediately.

    Likewise, if I'm easy on the throttle and let it upshift early, I can go for a long time without setting it.
     

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