Hello everyone! I have had my MINI since 2013 but I am new to the site so bear with me. I have a 2010 Cooper S Hardtop in Horizon Blue and I am looking for some help. I am normally into doing the work to my cars by myself, but I am having a hell of a time figuring out what is wrong. :mad2: Unfortunately, My car has been out of commission for about 6 months now. At first- I had a pretty bad fuel problem (fuel smell for days). I had my HPFP replaced at the dealership because after taking it there for a diag. I figured that would be the easiest thing to do (which was a horrible mistake because the problem was not completely fixed and the fuel smell and stall out problem never fully went away). I replaced the fuel filter, rings and gaskets (gaskets on low-pressure fuel pump too) which fixed the fuel smell issue, the fuel pressure code and on the test drive seemed to fix the stall out issue as well. After the test drive, it seemed that my coolant was leaking but not consistently (it would drop lower and stay at that same level). I was getting a MAF code and my car was stalling while driving (after it stalled, it wouldnt start back up unless you let it sit for like 20 mins) I replaced the MAF boot because it was cracked, test drove it and it stalled out maybe about 1/4 mile down the road. This time, it wouldn't start up at all (it continuously turns over) and was still throwing a MAF code. After unplugging the MAF sensor, the car started and drove for a good 10 minutes with no issues. I replaced the MAF sensor with yet again, NO LUCK. (and now the car will not stay running with the MAF unplugged) I let the car sit for 1-2 weeks and started it yesterday (i don't know what i was hoping for), the car ran for maybe 3-5 minutes and stalled out. I restarted it right after and it started but died as soon as it did. Then the car would no longer start (it just turns over). It is throwing a P0100 code (MAF or Volume "A" circut) and a P113B (MAF 1 correction signal plausibility too long) code. Need help or advice! Please and Thank you! :biggrin5:
Have you checked to see if it has carbon build up? It may be time for a good walnut blasting. haw many miles are on it? And Welcome to MA!
Zapski- Battery is brand new, and car stays on when it stalls out the engine just stops. MCS02- I had a good walnut blasting about 10,000 miles ago. (I don't know if it would build up that quickly) I just hit 91000 miles which I know is when things start to go wrong and need to be updated. I wouldn't be as frustrated if I could diagnose it and fix what's wrong.
Minidave- This has been diagnosed by the dealer 3 times with no fix. Also diagnosed by 2 different local euro shops who no longer want anything to do with the car because they cannot find a fix. Everyone has been quick to take my money but no one has fixed my problem. Figured I'd post on here to see if anyone has had a similar problem with similar codes thrown.
Interesting......and frustrating too! Sorry, I'm no help, but have you done the basic - run a compression test? No I don't think that's it either, but it's always where I start.
Minidave- I have to double check what was done when it was last at the shop. I am not sure if that was done or not. If not I will see what comes of that Wmwny- Thanks!
You have an N18 engine and they do not have the carbon problem the N14 engines have. But I would still check the intake and make sure. I don't know if I missed it in your first post but how many miles does it have on it? I don't think it's the battery but it wouldn't hurt to do a load test on it especially if the battery is more than a few years old.
MCS02- Yeah, battery was changed like 2 months ago. So I don't think that's the issue. And I will def check the intake. I've had a couple of walnut blastings throughout the time I've had the car so I know carbon is a big issue. And I just hit about 91000 miles which is of course it's at a big milestone.
I'd look at the primary O2 sensor first. Unplugging the MAF sensor forces the ECU to operate in VE mode. Airflow is calculated based on RPM and MAP.