Upon requests for more info on these..... First the opening shots: Fully assembled and ready to install The fronts come with a solid top-plate. Non adjustable on the camber, but there is good news. BC Racing camber plates fit perfectly. :: Please don't start on using middle of the road plates on these COs. They use the same type spherical bearing and are really a pretty decent setup. :: I'll post addt'l pics if you want. Now, on to the springs. Fronts use a 7" 6kg/mm Eibach linear-rate spring. These are only load adjustable. As PGT has stated in the other thread, some may look at this as a <fail>, but it's really not. If i'm going out to drive hard, or track it, etc. I don't want it on the ground. On to the rears. 8" 5kg/mm. You do have to use the stock rear top-hats and bushings, but that's ok. I have not had any problems. As you can see, both front and rear have the damper adjusters on the bottom of the assemblies. A life saver on the rear. No drilling, yay! Also, the rubber bottom shock cover thingy covers the adjustment knob. Both f and r are easy to find when you reach under there to do the adjusting. Now about the avail and pricing. I got mine from DDMWorks. This set was/or is the first in the states, that we know of. This according to Öhlins NA. I paid about, well, i'm not really sure. It was according to the exchange rate back then. The Öhlins site, actually Carrozzeria's (they build them for Öhlins) site lists them as Â¥299,250. If you exchange rate them at Â¥110, that works out to be ≈$2720 I don't think that was how much I paid, because the rate a was a little better (last summer). I think I got to most of what was asked, but I'm sure that there will be lots o' questions. I'll try and answer them to the best of my ability. Some addt'l pics that I ran across: Proof that they are on a MINI
Here is a link to the Carrozzeria site that gives a little more info on the DFV setup. It is in Japanese, but for those of us that like pictures, it is still informative. Look about half to 2/3rds down the page. Please see next post. It will be a write-up that I lifted off of, well, I can't remember now. I apologize to the writer in advance.
That's crazy...I just had upper mounts custom machined just like those for my suspension (bearing on top though).:lol: Ohlins
depending on overall length and threaded portion overlap, I think it would be possible to convert these to three way by just adding an additional lockring. Here's a pic of mine for the STI for comparison: My fronts have camber plates with adjusters inside the bottom (inverted). The rear has extensions up top to adjust (I have access to them inside unlike the MINI). I had mine dyno'ed on a Roehrig by RoadRaceTech.com - if I can only get them to email me the files, I'll have them. Good news was that the adjustors worked throughout the range of 25 clicks (this isn't necessarily true for all coilovers...even brand name ones, from what RRT told me. The # of clicks is usually a marketing feature, not an actual one ). Did your's come with any metal washers for relieving spring movement? If not, be sure to check your lockrings regularly. My buddy has a set and his loosened up. We had these custom up perches made that integrate an E46 M3 sealed bearing. I had them powdercoated to match...shown next to Ohlins lockring:
I got this doc off Carozzeria's site awhile back, in case anybody is interested (a bit more info than the link above) :cornut: edit - didn't work b/c it's too big. let's try another way
Ah, now see, you got camber plates.... and the threaded bodies..... :drool: :lol: Just kidding. I thought about having the original plates machined and sourcing a pillow-ball, but found the BC ones instead. No washers. I have had them off a few times (mainly when I was changing springs) and they were never loose. The cinch up very tight. Nice custom pieces!
I also see the MINI app doesn't include rear tophats. A shame. The OEM ones cost $220....meaning it's not cost effective to buy a spare set to keep your OEM set intact for simple swap outs. You might want to get the MINIMadness urethane inserts for the rear tophats...the stock foam bushings are VERY squishy. No real NVH that I could tell on my MINI (granted, the RMW exhaust I had was LOUD).
That's a :crazy: price for a some stamped steel. I'll definitely look to get some of the poly bushings. Didn't even know of those. It's ok for now, but will keep them on "the list". Right now, i'm dealing with the end links rubbing/touching the trailing arms. The Alta bar that I have was one of the 1st produced after the 2 to 3 hole conversion. Gah, has it been that long? :lol: The side motion retainers allow it to move side to side a little too much. This was not an issue until I had to back off on the 22mm from the result of the increased front neg. camber.
those bushings are pricey, but the only ones out there that I'm aware of. The stock ones allow QUITE a bit of movement as evidenced by my hours of trying to cut holes to allow the adjustor cables for the Cross coilovers to come up to the boot. The position of the tops unloaded is a good inch different than when the car is on the ground. :mad2:
I was doing a random search on some new KYB plug-and-play strut/spring combos and came across this: SM5444 - MINI rear strut mount - $25.42. Tire Rack stocks them - if this is indeed an aftermarket upper mount from KYB, they're 85% cheaper than OEM.
One month later: How are the Ohlins performing? I have a few questions regarding them. Did you put the BC top hats on them? Are they any shorter overall than stock [like KW's]? I can't seem to find any online info regarding adjustment on the DFV setup; do they have compression and rebound adjustment or is that not really applicable anymore? Thanks, Ryan
A month? Already? Yeah, I'm still enjoying them. Still waiting on parts to get in so I haven't been driving it the past couple weeks. After I do my clutch and flywheel (that I am still waiting on) , I am going to re-evaluate the spring values - again. They just seem a little soft. In addition to, I found the orig. install sheets. Since they were in all Japanese, I didn't pay any attn. to them. After a closer look a few days ago, the springs are supposed to have some pre-load on them. So, I am going to take that into account when my re-eval. begins. Reset and try again. Moving on. I agree there is little data about the DFV setup. The links (and inserted paragraph) at the top of the post are about it. The pics explain more than anything. They are single adjustable (one knob). All on the bottom, thank goodness. No hole drilling. I wish that I had taken some measurements before installing, but yes, I think that they are a little shorter than stock. The travel is very similar to stock, but I'm not sure exactly how close. Again, I should have taken some numbers. The fronts come with a machined plate with spherical bearing in it. Not camber adjustable. I took some measurements from them and found an old Megan racing camber plate from way back and they matched. How cool, right? Right. I didn't want the red Megan plates, so I contacted BC's re-seller in FL, Import Image, and they sold me some plates. They are a little off on the color match, but.... they work. The rears re-use the stock hardware, but I have had no issues. Like PGT said, the poly bushings should firm it up quite nicely.
Thanks for the tidbits. It sounds like I'll have to give Ohlins a call and see if they're willing to offer any specs. Regarding your spring rates; I agree they are soft [assuming stock weight MINI]. Going up to 7kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear would be more appropriate for fast street, or go with 8kg/mm front and 7kg/mm rear for more track oriented [assuming a 22mm rear sway bar]. Cheers, Ryan
That's what I was thinkin too. I've got the 7kg for the fronts already, but need to get a pair of 6kg for the rear. I do have a 22mm rear bar so that should work nicely. :: beer mugs ::
More info for Ryan... & all Take a look at the scanned sheets. As you can see, they are almost all in Japanese. As I do not read, nor speak it, these were disregarded/neglected very quickly. (Who needs the instructions, right?) After a suggestion from someone that there should be some measurements on there, I dug them up and looked again. There are measurements on page 5 and 6 that give length. It may not exactly what you looking for but, better than nothing. Also, there were specs for spring pre-load. As the sheets were neglected, so were the pre-loads. When installed, they were set at, "keep the spring from moving/rattling" - maybe a couple mm's. After changing this on Sat., I took a spin to run-in the cam. Wow, cool. Definitely not as soft. More firm and solid. I am going to re-evaluate the rates after taking some of the roads that I noticed everything being a little weird on.
Update on the pre-load situation. Still better. A lot more "composed", or "behaved". I think the rates are ok where they are. Unless I get into some rough, hole laden asphalt, things are good. Now, I have some questions for people that are smarter than me. As you can put together in this thread and others, you know the gist of my susp. setup. Alta 22mm rsb, 3 hole - in the softest. Stock front bar. Front camber plates. Rear LCAs. 6kg/mm, front and 5kg/mm, rear springs. Now, while the car is lowered, it is not dropped. As stated in the literature attached, the avg lowering is 20mm front and 25mm rear. That is very close to what it is now - within a few mm. Moving on. Here is what I am picking your brains about. After doing an alignment on the car, it feels a tad tail happy. Here are the specs: Front: -1.5 camber (both sides) and 0, to a breath of toe-in. Rear: -1.1 camber and 16th of toe-in. My thought is this, if I have this combo of spring rates and camber mixed together, do I really need a 22mm rear bar? Would it be better to step down to the Whiteline 20mm? Or even a 19mm? Should I just get used to the new feel and adjust my driving around it? This MINI is on the street mainly, with a trip to the twisties fairly regular, wo we'll see where this goes. Thanks everyone.
Does it feel "tail happy" during turn in or mid-corner? It looks like you could add some rear negative camber and balance the car that way. I'm surprised you're not running something like -2.0 front and -1.4 rear. The MINI seems to handle better with aggressive front camber to compensate for camber gain during cornering. Also, how does the car feel on slalom-type curves where you're going back to back?