2nd Gen R56 Cooper S A few dumb clutch replacement ?s

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by thinkinmini, Mar 19, 2012.

  1. thinkinmini

    thinkinmini New Member

    Feb 24, 2012
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    So I'm in the process of replacing my clutch, gotten pretty far I suppose for one day. Subframes out, exhaust is out, etc etc.....but I've got a few questions....Did you place your radiator into service mode, or remove it and the support completely when replacing the clutch? Or was there some way around this? If there was, what was it? Also if you removed the radiator/support, what are the steps involved with that? And what fluids needed to be drained, if any? I know it's a dumb question, but did you drain the clutch and the trans of fluid before pulling out the units? And what did you use to seal the units of the trans/clutch back together, was it anaerobic flange sealant as specified in the writeup by lonestar mini club?
     
  2. thinkinmini

    thinkinmini New Member

    Feb 24, 2012
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    Forgot to say thanks for all the advice everyone, in advance.
     
  3. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

    May 6, 2009
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    The clutch can be removed without putting the radiator support in service mode utilizing the OEM tools. Unscrew the chassis extensions top stud nuts to the end, remove the other fasteners. It doesn't allow much room, but enough to do the job.

    Using my imagination I can see how the radiator support could be suspended from above in a low roofed garage, or supported from below without relying on a chassis extension connection.

    For the first timer without modular extension tools, or alternate support resources, I think it best to remove the radiator support completely. Follow the directions above, drain the radiator, unclasp the upper radiator hose, disconnect the fan connector & horns (fog lights also if applicable), move the AC condenser carefully downward and to the right taking care not to bend the refrigerant lines, secure the condenser out of the way, remove the radiator support.

    If you go this far, might as well change the supercharger fluid if it is an S model.

    Drain transmission fluid before removing transmission from the engine.

    No sealant is needed for clutch replacement. Anaerobic sealant is used when joining the two halves of the gear box.
     
  4. thinkinmini

    thinkinmini New Member

    Feb 24, 2012
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    Is removing the passenger side drive axle from the transmission the same process as removing the driver side (pry bar, fulcrum, abrupt force)? I got the driver side off but there's this kind of plastic boot at the base of the passenger side drive axle where it meets the transmission and it confused me. I assume I just use a screwdriver to peel it back and do the same process as the driver side? Also, when you drop the transmission, did you need to disconnect the connectors on the turbo water pump below the oil filter canister, and remove the bolts on it as well? I only ask because this is why the lonestar mini club how-to guide said I needed to extend the radiator support and all, which I've done but I've yet to drain the coolant and all that, to disconnect the lines and extend it farther. On a side note, I think I will be purchasing the bentley repair manual. Dropped the subframe, placed car into service mode, removed exhaust etc etc but it would be nice to know a few other things like torque specs.
     
  5. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

    May 6, 2009
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    BTW, there is a copy of the R56 how-to in the MA library http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/2nd-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-4/r56-clutch--lsd-installation-overview-84/#axzz1pgx3vAiV

    For the passenger side axle, remove the two bolts holding the mid-shaft bearing bracket to the case, push outward on the passenger side steering knuckle with a foot (if on your back), while pulling the drive shaft from the differential, take care to pull straight out without dragging the axle splines across the output seal. No need to pry with a tool.

    I remove the 8mm bolts holding the auxiliary water pump, no need to disconnect connectors. A tip for easier indexing later, leave one bolt in its bracket hole, unscrewed completely from the case, with the bracket moved away.

    If you don't plan on removing the radiator support with the lights etc., no need to drain the radiator. You may have the dexterity required to perform this task without moving the radiator support out further. I mistakingly gave advice related to the R53 previously; since the supercharger output duct doesn't need to be removed, the fasteners are low torque and easier to access, less room is needed to remove the transmission. Those auxiliary pump bracket bolts are hard to get to though.
     

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