Ok I have a question for all those that like to hardwire all their gadgets into their MINIs. I am getting to the point where I want to add a few things, I Phone, radar, GPS , SAT radio and possibly even a tablet. I want the flexibility to add and remove things as needed, that and I don't want to go overboard with "Add a Circuit" and create a lot of clutter. I have done a little research and found a MINI owner that has taken the time to diagram an auxiliary fuse block with constant and switched power. The individual starts with running a 30 amp fuse from the battery that then provides power for the constant and switched fuse blocks. This build is also on an R50, battery under the bonnet, I have the positive battery terminal lug. I could run another wire from the battery, fused from the boot and follow the route of the battery cable to the to the engine compartment to the cabin, but do I have to? Can I run my power off the positive battery terminal lug, fuse it and then run it into the cabin? I am looking at the shorter run as well as less exposure to the "outside" elements. Would this be a safe practice or should I just start from the boot?
Jump start + under the bonnet? I think that would work fine, just make sure to fuse it close to that point. I pull the power for my driving lights there.
Thanks for the info. During my research I noticed quite a few pulled power for thier driving lights from there.
I was waiting for the "big audio guys" to chime in Not being one made me do a little research and everything I read instructed the average everyday audio guy to pull power of the battery with a fuse (big amps) as close to the battery as possible, totally agree. I am thinking small stuff, stuff that most would just put in an "Add a Circuit". I was looking at not having all the clutter and give myself a little room for flexibility. So question for the "big audio guys". When you ran your power from the battery how did you route it? Are you powering up anything else off the run?
I have my power (+) coming from the battery in the rear with 4 AWG wire with a fuse 12 inch's from the battery to a Distribution Block. They it is split to (2) 8 Gauge outputs that run under the back seat to my JL HD Amps. For Ground (-) I did the same thing but I used the factory Ground from the chassis next to the battery not the battery itself. 4 AWG wire no fuse to a Distribution Block. They it is split to (2) 8 Gauge outputs that run under the back seat to my JL HD Amps. Sample distribution block below, not the one I used but you will get the idea. For my remote turn on I ran a switched (+) wire from the dash to turn the Amps on and off with the key. Stinger SHD20 HPM Series Power or Ground Distribution Block
Thanks for the info Dave. I might just run it as you suggested, leaving myself the option to run an amp in the future. Just need to come up with routing, no back seat, going to make it a little harder to hide stuff.
LOL I will give you that one, you would think it would be easier. The problem with the GP delete kit is that it is form fitting, no gaps. As I am sure you know, that hard foam supports the whole delete kit. There is no exposed metal in that compartment to attach or ground anything to. Pulling it is not an option and I have my reservations on modifing it. I could follow the interior battery wire route and figure something out from there. Ideas?
Well you will have to pull it out to get to the side panel. That way you can run your power wires down the passenger side of the car. If you wanted to tape power from the battery. Since you are only running low power stuff iPhone, radar, GPS , SAT radio not Power hunger AMPS. You could pull power from the (+) tap under the hood and go through one of the many opening in the fire wall and run it to a block under your dash. This would allow you to add small power block with fuses and feed your low power draw things.
This is looking like a two part project, first get the low power stuff hooked up and then move on to the high power stuff. Thanks for the info though, always learn something here.
I ran the wire to my driving light switch through the rubber grommet just behind the brake booster. Made a small slit & fed the wire through. You could do the same with your power wire if you choose to tap off the jump start connection next to the air-box. Might be easier than running a wire from the battery to the front of your interior. Remember to fuse it.
If I tap off of anything I always fuse it as close as I can to the source. For the battery make sure the fuse is no less than 12 inches from the (+) post.