Ok it's been a while but I have a dilemma in which I'm hoping someone else had a similar problem. I had to rebuild my engine, bore it out, replace cams etc in my 2002 R 53. However after everything was put back together the car wouldn't start. One mechanic said the ECU was fried & that it's not sending current to the plugs. However everything else in the car is operating just fine. I thought when your ECU goes everything goes. Now a Mini Cooper technician who didn't check the car told me he thinks the transponder in the key is out and that I need a new key. Now if the ECU is out that's about $1500. If it's the key that's about $200 but then I would have to tow my Cooper S from Lexington KY to Louisville. Either way if any of these guys are wrong I'm out of money but more importantly time. I need to somehow make a decision on this in 2 days. Can someone give me any suggestion?
The ECU and Body Control Module have a password feature called the "Rolling Code" which changes between the modules every time that the car is turned off. So if the ECU is not connected and the power is turned on the BCM will change the code and try to tell the ECU what the new code is. No Response from ECU. No start till rematched. Does NOT take a dealer to do. Only requires a shop that does BMW/MINI work with the proper hardware such as a GT1 or the BMW supplied tools.
So tell me Nathan, am I correct in thinking that if the ECU was bad nothing that runs through it would be working.
Frankly, I don't know enough about all this to make an informed response. If it was me at this point I'd be calling Jan at RMW, Eric at Helix, Chad at Detroit Tuned or Way at Way Motor Works. I've been down that Code Rolling thing twice now due to a bricked ECU, hence my thoughts in that direction. The reasons behind that are for another time and place. Not from what you are doing.
Did the ECU work when started the overhaul? If so I'm not sure how the ECU could have gone bad. Did you mess with it? I believe Nathan is barking up the right tree. It just doesn't make sense that the ECU went bad if you didn't fool with it. I would look els were for the problem.
The ECU worked just fine. All of the problems was mechanical. The battery was undone about a month before we even worked on it & when the ECU was removed we placed it plastic & stored in in a box. I just want to know is it likely other functions that's controlled by the ECU can still be operational if the ECU goes bad. To me that doesn't make sense.
By the way, when I disco'd the battery that was the only time the ECU & BCM had no power. Then when I felt everything was put back together correctly that's when I reconnected the battery.
I would give some of the people Nathan suggested a call, they will be able to help more. I just have to wonder how on earth the ECU went bad sitting on the shelf. Its a computer so I would think part of it could be bad and other parts work, don't know. With my experience with cars I would say you are missing something els. I am sure you have gone over every thing more than once. But I would start fresh and go over every plug and connector and check every wire. The odds are it is some related to what you have touched not something that was sitting on the shelf. But agin Nathan has a good point about the BCM and ECU. Sorry not more help
Update: Still Same Problem But I Have Codes. The mechanic @ Notorsports of Lexington is using a Autologic diagnosis machine. He said the codes came back 2300 = #1 2303 = #2 Ignition Coil Primary / Secondary Circuit Input Low -Short to Ground -No Signal Detected If any of this makes sense with what was said already in this thread please let me know. I'm becoming severely frustrated with this process & thinking of parting my Mini out & looking for something else. I love the car but this is definitely a pain in the ass & probably not worth the headache.
Are you very sure the battery is good? Have a load test done on iit, even if you think it is good. Dubble check all your grounds and connections. Make sure that the positive wire bolt under the hood is tight and clean. I hate to keep giving simple advice but I have been here before. If I had a dime for the times I put a car back together and it wouldn't start just to find it was something simple, I would be rich. I have not seen this on a Mini yet because of there age. Some times the positive battery that goes from the back to the front starts to pull too many amps and causes all sorts of problems. This usually happens on older cars but it mabe something to check.
Oops. Anyway the battery is good, been checked. What I'm going to do is have this place disconnect everything then put it back together. If that doesn't solve it then I'm parting her out & moving on. I love my Mini S but no car should be this complicated to diagnose. I feel of this was a Toyota or a Honda it would've been on the road a long time ago. Anyway thanks fellas & hopefully after this week I'll still be a proud owner of a Mini.
If you haven't I would call one of the guys Nathan said to call. They are all very good. I have only delt with Chad at DetrotTuned he is very helpfull. Let us know how it turns out
Sounds like a pinched wire or something going to the coil. After getting the engine back in shape, seems like a fairly minor problem to force you to part it out, but it is yours to do with as you please.