Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Cooling Fan Low Speed Always On

How long did it take you to replace the fan? I'm looking at the DT low fan resistor that Chad sells and trying to make the decision whether to do it myself or have it done.

 

Car needs to go into service mode.

 

I did this prior to DT selling a kit. Pretty easy once I was able to find the parts. No service mode on mine. Was still working fine when I sold the car to purchase Silverback

 

Jeff you are going to have to hold a workshop for us. I want to know how to do this an easier way. :yesnod:

 

The easier way is an external bypass resistor. The easiest of all is run a tap directly between the high and low speed lines (the low speed fan will run at high speed).

 

What year car was this done too? Early.........did it have the recalled PS fan/rad fan harness?

 

This is what you need to do once and it's fixed forever. The real easy way.

I did this mod years ago before M\A was even on-line and I have not had anymore fan issues.

The fan will run low and switch to high when needed.

You do not need to remove your fan and everything to do this mod it's just cut and use a soldering iron to make the connections.

Here is the part from Mouser in NJ. $15.14 + shipping.
http://ph.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Arcol/HS100-0R33-5/&qs=/ha2pyFadujijxGS6LgfEkg1IowNcoCvsl658sK7qJwszHYUMk2NYg==


Here are the instructions. From the NAM
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/3776413-post932.html

 

NAM link is broke.......

 

Damn NAM :mad2: I fixed the link.

 

Boy that figures.... :lol:

 

Thanks Dave

 

Sweet! I need to do this on Blake's R53. Ordering parts today.

 

I just did mine a month ago. Here's my contribution to that thread -- post #1125 (!). Obviously a lot of people have had the problem.

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/3964714-post1125.html

As I mentioned earlier, the dead simple quick fix (takes only a few minutes) is install two taps and simply run a wire between them. When low speed is supposed to run, it will actually spin at high speed (noisier, but cooler is better, right?). Add the resistor to run like factory setup.

 

I did not use T-taps because they all fail over time and are not waterproof.
They should not be used for connection outside in vehicles that will see all weather conditions. ( cold, rain, snow, ice) A little bit of water will freeze in T-tap and pop it open and cause it to fail. You won't notice it when it's 20 degrees out but you sure will overheat when Spring comes around.

Cut, soldier and seal with M3 scotch 33+ electrical tape.

 

Every scotch-lock tap I have ever used has failed eventually. Don't use them anymore.

 

Put some silicone paste in there before you close it. Then wrap it with self vulcanizing tape. Mostly though I just solder my connections.

 

I always solder all my connections. It has become a habit from when I installed car alarms and remote starters. I would not have comeback failures because some cheap connector failed.

All soldered connections equal the piece of mind that every splice has been made correctly and will not fail from any weather condition or vibration.

I do it once and do it right because I hate troubleshooting electrical problems.