1st Gen R53 Cooper S Help! Danged Oil drain plug won't come off

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by t3hwookiee, Jul 16, 2012.

  1. t3hwookiee

    t3hwookiee New Member

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    #1 t3hwookiee, Jul 16, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 16, 2012
    So I've done a ton of searching online, mostly ended up with nam threads, and we've tried everything short of ice cubes and a blow torch at this point. The danged oil drain plug on my '06 MCSc will not come off. Heck there's not a lot left to it at this point.

    Here are some pics of the poor thing.
    IMG_20120704_191503.jpg IMG_20120704_191515.jpg

    Hopefully those show up. Photobucket is blocked at work, so all I can see are red xs.

    It's down to where an 11mm socket is a bit loose on it. The bolt extractor socket we got from Craftsman nearly destroyed the bolt, and didn't budge it at all. Vise grip pliers didn't move it, a breaker bar didn't work, banging my head into the floor of the garage didn't help, nothing is.

    This is our first oil change on May. Carmax changed the oil the day we bought her, and I think King Kong on steroids did the change. Or they used a freaking impact gun to do it. May's OBC just told us last week that she was due for the oil change (had her a year now), and the oil has looked good until then (definitely dirty now though, yech.) This is by far not my first oil change, have been doing them myself for 15 years (Dad was not letting me have a car until I could change a flat and change the oil, thanks Dad! :) .) Not even my truck was this much of a pain. I'm about ready to just drop the whole danged pan and replace it, except for the cost factor.

    We've already bought a Fumitomo valve to replace the plug, so I should not have to deal with this crap again. I'm at 75 miles past and the OBC is being grumpy at me for that. I've been stuck driving the Celica for a week while my husband has been out of town since I cannot get on the ground and deal with this (having bilateral knee surgery this Friday.) I want my car back! I miss the MINI.

    Any help at all would be appreciated, any tips or tricks at all. We're hoping to take care of this once and for all tonight. I really hope to avoid going to the dealership and having to pay for an oil change, because those are so bloody expensive and I do not have the money for that (see above surgery.)
    Thanks!
     
  2. Mr. Jim

    Mr. Jim Mudshark
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    Gotta use the visegrips really tight and bang with a hammer. I know you said you tried but keep at it.
    It really sucks when they put the damn thing on so freakin tight. The stealer only did two oil changes on mine, they were free, the last one they did the cromag-man put the filter housing soooo tight I had to put another ratchet, remove the tire to get the angle to break it loose.

    Good luck.
     
  3. CHKMINI

    CHKMINI Club Coordinator
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    Let's hope that Carmax truly did change the oil when you bought it and didn't encounter the same issue opting to say they changed it when they really didn't. I agree with Jim on this....vise grips and keep at it. Good Luck!
     
  4. t3hwookiee

    t3hwookiee New Member

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    I did look at the oil when I brought her home, and it was definitely clean. :) Been checking it about every 6 weeks or so to make sure it was still good.

    Ok, will double-down on the vise grips and keep trying then! Thanks guys. :)
     
  5. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    How about soaking it in penetrating oil (PB Blaster, for example) for a few hours.

    Available at most auto parts stores (and Amazon, aparently) [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E"]Amazon.com: Blaster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11 oz.: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21Ils5oDhNL.@@AMEPARAM@@21Ils5oDhNL[/ame]

    There is something in the structure of this oil that causes it to be wicked into tiny cracks and crevices, helping the bolt to break free.
     
  6. t3hwookiee

    t3hwookiee New Member

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    Thanks agranger, I'll stop at O'Reilly's and grab some since it's on the way home. :) Spray it down, and leave it until it's cool enough to start working on. It's bloody hot again today!
     
  7. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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  8. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    If push comes to shove.... And you still can't get it off.

    Pick a hex bolt that will slip over the old rounded head. Get your local welder to weld the new nut on. Then use the appropriate socket to remove it. The heat from the welding should help loosen the threads some.
     
  9. t3hwookiee

    t3hwookiee New Member

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    That's the set we have Dave, and all it did was chew up the plug like it was lunch, according to my husband. I can't get down there and try it myself, but he said he couldn't get a good bite with any of them. It'd be a tight fit, but then it would only move the socket, not the bolt itself. I'm thinking spraying the PBlaster stuff, then trying the extractor again might work.

    Thank Metalman, I was wondering if welding something on it and then using *that* to get it off might work. I can get my brother to bring his stuff down and do that for me if the other stuff doesn't work.

    You guys are great, thanks! :)
     
  10. carboman

    carboman New Member

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    This may be the only way. I would certainly try a large vice grip clamped so tight it bites into the bolt. I don't remove drain plugs to change oil, I use an oil vac and suck it out from the dipstick tube. Much easier.
     
  11. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Vice grips aren't going to do it, they'll just chew it up worse. Also, don't bother with the rust penetrant, there's not going to be any rust on an aluminum pan.

    I've removed many of these, and there are only a couple of ways to get it out.

    One way is to do what Metalman said, when they get so rounded off like this, welding a big ol nut onto the stub and using the appropriate socket and breaker bar will do it - I've done a few this way.

    Another way is to take a zip gun and catch the edge of the round, flat washer part of the nut and drive it from there. The vibrations will usually move it, then you can use whatever you have to turn it out.

    There's a third possibility although I haven't done this yet, that's to take a big ol pipe wrench to it, just make sure you're square on the stub.

    One last thing, it's easy for folks to get confused when working upside down or on their backs, and they wind up trying to turn the bolt the wrong way, so remember....righty tighty, lefty loosey.

    The Fumoto valve will ensure you don't have this problem again, but really, I've never had this problem on any of my cars, and I can only conclude that those who do are using the wrong tool/sized socket/wrench, turing it the wrong way or overtightening it. I think the torque spec on this is 22 ft lbs, that's not very much!
     
  12. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Lots of good info here. Vice grips come in different sizes. Put a big pair on there & tighten it so much that it hurts to put on the drain plug. Then give them a firm whack with a dead blow hammer.

    Good luck...
     
  13. carboman

    carboman New Member

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  14. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    The below from Metalman will absolutly do the trick. Or you could have them weld on a crap socket.

    If push comes to shove.... And you still can't get it off.

    Pick a hex bolt that will slip over the old rounded head. Get your local welder to weld the new nut on. Then use the appropriate socket to remove it. The heat from the welding should help loosen the threads some.
     
  15. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    I too was thinking a combination of a small to mid sized pipe wrench (good one) with a pipe or something extra on the handle for leverage & some heat, propane torch would be fine.

    Plus, everyone don't forget, 6pt socket only, on the drain plug, just to be safe. I actually use a 1/2 inch drive, 6pt & my torque wrench for removal also.
     
  16. t3hwookiee

    t3hwookiee New Member

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    So far, no good. That sucker just won't budge. We don't have a propane torch or anything similar, my brother got all the good tools (probably because he *is* a tool) out of my dad's garage.

    The vise grips are just eating off more metal, no matter how tight you get them. The bolt extractor won't do anything, and we could not get the pipe wrench to stay on there, it kept slipping off.

    I'm thinking screw it, I'll just go by the MINI dealership and have them deal with it after all. NM, just called to see how much an oil change was. HOLY scheisse! $110 and it's just the oil change and a measley 13 point inspection!?! Not even a tire rotation? That's highway robbery man. Not happening.

    Next on the list, call around and find someone to weld up on a hex bolt. Gonna be cheaper than $110 for sure.

    Thanks for all the hints and help guys, y'all are awesome! :)
     
  17. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    I said it before, don't use vice grips - why doesn't anyone listen to me?

    If you have a hammer and a small chisel (not a sharp one tho) make a small cut in the edge of the round part of the plug - looks kinda like a flat washer- then use a drift (aka - a punch) and tap on that notch you made in the direction of rotation (counter clockwise - remember the righty-tighty rule?) and see if that will get it out. If you have a zip gun (air hammer), that would work even better.

    If you don't have the tools, take it to your dealer and have them get it out for you.

    BTW, do not use your torque wrench to remove tight bolts like wheel bolts and drain plugs, that's NOT what it's for, and by overstressing it you completely screw up the calibration. Use the correct tool for the job - use a breaker bar to remove tight bolts, use a hammer to hit things not pliers or crescent wrenches, use a wrench to loosen and tighten bolts and nuts, not pliers and so on.

    The drain plug does not need to be that tight - 22 ft lbs is about a good twist with a short 3/8" ratchet. Likewise the filter cannister does not need to be that tight either, the seal is made by the o-ring, not by how tight it is. The goal with the filter cannister is simply tight enough to not have it work loose again under vibration or whatever.
     
  18. t3hwookiee

    t3hwookiee New Member

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    Because my husband is a very stubborn man, that's why, heh. I told him it wouldn't likely work, but he was determined to try again. At least he was definitely trying the correct direction.

    I think that the chisel we have is a pointy one. We don't have an air hammer. Chisels are cheap enough and useful in other ways that I'll just grab one on the way home and try this out. Can't hurt! Don't have a torque wrench, so no worries about using that.

    Thankfully the cannister isn't nearly as tight. I tested that last night, and I can get it off.
     
  19. turboguy327

    turboguy327 New Member

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    I think you need a high quality pipe wrench with good teeth on it and get it tight before you put pressure on it. Ive gotten wheel lugs off that way so I know it will work on a drain plug.
     
  20. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    Listen to Minidave, the chiseled notch and a punch or drift will get it out.

    Get the car up high enough that you can swing a hammer at the drift.

    A pipe wrench will just round off the plug, just like a Vicegrip.

    Dave
     

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