Entertainment Electronics 1st Gen HK mid/tweeter size

Discussion in 'Tuning and Performance' started by narvarr, May 4, 2015.

  1. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    Does anyone happen to know or have measured the actual size of the mid/tweeter combo of the first gen HK system? I have a hunch that I may have a viable replacement for it but I need to know what size it is.
     
  2. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #2 Dave.0, May 4, 2015
    Last edited: May 4, 2015
    Standard 1 inch like every other tweeter, HK's are nothing special and they are made on the same line as other cheap speakers. You are just paying for the name since the real Harman/Kardon was bought by JBL years ago.

    FYI My Focal KR 2 tweeters fit perfectly inside the OEM tweeter housing.

    Focal K2 Power 165 KR2 Here is a link to them and the specs: Focal K2 Power 165 KR2 6-3/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com
     
  3. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    That's our DaveO. Go Gettum...................................................

    Jason
     
  4. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    Actually, it not a standard tweeter. It's a tweeter and a mid mounted coax style. Take a look at the pics. There is an outer surround a large magnet on the back and 2 separate inputs on the back. The capacitor on the back suggestions a crossover frequency of about 18000 hz and there is no way a 5.25" mid is playing that high. So there would have to be a small midrange behind it to cover the frequency up to that point. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This is a pic of the standard tweeter:
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    It's a standard size without all the plastic MINI crap on it. If you buy real separates you will see they fit right in and all you have to do is find a place for the after market crossover.

    Look at the Focal link I posted because they fit and they are 1 inch.
     
  6. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    I saw the link and am very familiar with car audio. I run a three way front stage in my competition vehicle and active processing on all 8 system channels. That being said, my system will be an active system so passive crossovers won't be needed for my install. The system would sound sooo much better with a dedicated mid in the top of the door and the tweets pushed up to the a pillars. Most standard high end tweeters are 28mm and have an overall OD that is closer to 2". If that is the case, then I have a pair of Scanspeak 2" mids that would work perfect for that location.
     
  7. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Cool I did the comp stereo screen back in the 90's with IASCA 251-500 class at 4 ohms and I have over 2,000 watts @ 1 and 1/2 ohm stable Hiphonices Amps 4 total. I also had with 2 (1) Farad caps and Richard Clark noisegate. I ran a active powered crossover and a powered EQ from Hiphonics. My 3 way set up was the Real MB Quarts before they were sold. I also had 2 JL 12's in a custom band pass enclosure and that car just won 1st place at every show I took it too. I actually got to be boring winning any time. :lol:
     
  8. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    Right now I'm just trying to come up with some quick solutions to get things rolling. I have a big show coming up next month and would like to get the MINI half way decent sounding so I can compete with it.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Wow I have been out of that audio seen for so long those posters bring back good memories. :Thumbsup: good luck
     
  10. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    Thanks Dave! Yeah the scene has changed a bit, but as you can see from the poster, most of the major players are still the same. Most of the industry has gotten away from the sound quality portion so anytime I can support it, I do.
     
  11. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Yeah my car was all about the SQ because anyone can make a car boom and be heard 2 blocks away.
     
  12. TheModFather

    TheModFather Well-Known Member

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    Dude you just had an entire week of living the forum in real time... Is the wife pissing you off that much already Mr. Late night poster?
     
  13. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    With the rain finally taking a break, I've been able to work on the audio a bit more. Yesterday I pulled the trim around the door latch and took some measurements.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    The mid appears to be about 2 inches in diameter with a 1 inch tweeter mounted in front. It is angle in towards the listing area to project more sound at the listener rather than at the dash. Aura Sounds makes a 2 inch full range driver that looks to be the perfect replacement.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    It has a titanium cone that both light weight and very rigid and the frequency response is pretty flat all the way down to 200hz. I'll more than likely only use them from ~800hz up to 5000hz and use the tweeters from the JL Audio C5 component set to top off the high end.
    I've got a pair on order from Parts Express since they seem to have them on sale at the moment.
     
  14. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    #14 narvarr, Jun 3, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2015
    Other aspects of the audio system that I've been working on are the midbass in the lower doors. I ordered some of the adapter rings from Amazon but wasn't happy with how flimsy they are so I had a local shop make some for me on the router table. They basically took the ones I bought and made carbon copies, but I had them use a material I bought called UHMW. UHMW is a high density plastic like HDPE (think plastic cutting board) but is ten times denser and at least 20 times denser than standard MDF wood. The other bonus to using it over MDF is that it doesn't adsorbe moisture and swell/degrade like MDF.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  15. narvarr

    narvarr Active Member

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    The midbass baffles will be mounted using M6 cap head bolts with nylock nuts. I countersunk the heads to make sure they don't interfere with the mounting of the speakers. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    The blue stuff on the bottom is foam of the peel and stick variety. It's used to help seal against the metal door but also to help decouple the assembly and decrease vibrations transmitted through the door from the speaker. [​IMG]
    That's all I have right now. Hopefully I'll be able to start on the dynamat portion today, but my deadline to have this done by showtime on Saturday isn't going to happen so I'll be attending as a spectator this year instead of as a competitor.
     

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