1st Gen "How To" HOW TO: R53 Better than JCW / Factory Rear Brakes

29394-39a47abaf8d3b4ac7b7370b7509e0da6.jpg
How to paint your rear brakes. In this case JCW red.
By c0op3r · Jan 30, 2018 ·
  1. c0op3r

    c0op3r Active Member

    Oct 2, 2013
    196
    133
    43
    Mech Eng and IT
    Orlando FL
    Ratings:
    +133 / 0 / -0
    #1 c0op3r, Nov 4, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2013
    HOW TO: R53 Better than JCW / Factory Rear Brakes

    by c0op3r

    [​IMG]

    I recently did the R56 Front Brake Upgrade (aka Poor Mans JCW Brake Upgrade) on my 06’ R53. I was shocked to find out that the JCW kits did nothing to the rear brakes. Now, I understand that 2/3 of the braking force is from the Front Brakes. That, of course, explains why the JCW kit has more sweep on the Rotor. However, this being the case, they did NOTHING to the rear; not even paint them!

    So for those that want to upgrade the look and function of your rear brakes, here is a little How-To.

    Things you will need:

    • Tools (basic hand tools)
    • Brake Fluid (at minimum to replace what you lost during the work)
    • VHT Real Red Caliper Paint

    Optional Upgrades:

    • BMW Brass Guide Bushing - (I got mine from Turnermotorsports)* ~$60
    • Stainless Steel Brake Lines - these can be had for as little as ~$38
    • Cross Drilled and/or Slotted Rotors ~$180 for the pair
    • JCW Stickers – [ SuperGraphix ] - ~$16 at current exchange rate
    • New Rear Brake Pads – (I like ceramic) your choice here
    • VHT Clear Caliper Paint

    You will start by removing the rear brakes. I am not going to go into how to do this as it is well documented in online posts and YouTube videos. Also, depending on what all you are doing, it will be more or less involved.

    You can paint the calipers on the car but that is a crappy way to do the job. The calipers come off easy enough, so once removed take off the caps and tape over (or plug) the holes. If you are changing out the Lines at the same time, I would just leave the old lines attached while cleaning.

    Before cleaning I like to remove the parts I do not want painted; brake pads (obviously), E-Brake Spring, the previously mentioned bleeder caps, the brake wear sensor, guide pins and plastic guide bushings.

    Clean with hot water, Simple Green & Dawn Dish Soap using a Nylon Brush. You do not need to get them back to bright shiny steel. You just need to get all the oil and loose dirt/brake dust off. Just scrub all over with the brakes separated into two parts. Dry the parts with a clean towel and let dry for a bit.

    Next you will want to tape up the piston. A little side note here - if you are changing the pads at this time you will want to push the piston in. You can do this pretty easy once the calipers are off with a pair of needle nose pliers. Tape up the bleed screw and the complete e-brake mechanism (note: do not play with it as it is a ratcheting mechanism and you will have to push the piston back in if you do). I also like to tape over the baring surface of the carrier. This is the part that butts up to the car. It’s easy to figure out what I am talking about, as it is clean.

    Spray the 4 parts with the VHT Real Red, I like to do 3 to 4 light coats, with 10 to 15 minutes in between coats, and ending with 2 coats of clear. CLEAR is Mandatory if you are adding JCW stickers! Other than those instructions I am not going to expand on spray painting. If you don’t know how to do it, then this might be a project that you want to seek assistance on.

    So, now you have the four parts all painted and you let them set for several hours to cure. It is now time to rebuild. I will outline each of the possible add ons here. You can choose the ones you want to add to your kit. If it’s none then skip to the end.

    Adding the BMW Brass Guide Pin Bushings: You will need C-Clip pliers for this. If you followed my instruction above you have already removed the plastic guide pin bushing for painting. The brass bushings replace these. The advantage to the brass units is there is NO FLEX. The guides simply are inserted in the holes that the plastic bushings were installed into, and the C-Clip installed to retain them. The guide pin kit includes (4) Pins, (4) Guides & (4) C-Clips. This is enough to do the rear brakes. You will need another kit if you want to do the fronts, but that would be another write up.

    [​IMG]

    Video on installation: BMW Brass Caliper Guide Pin Bushings Installation - YouTube

    Adding the Stainless Steel Brake Lines: I like to install the lines with the calipers off the car. The reason for this is that the swivel point is where the hard line meets the SS Line, not at the caliper. So assuming that you are changing these out and you left the plastic ones on the brakes for cleaning, just un-screw the old plastic lines and screw in the new SS Lines. Do not use any kind of plumbers tape, it can get in the system and clog things (BAD). Do not try to kill the fitting with force; just good and firm is fine.

    JCW stickers: If you are adding these you may or may not have clear coated the calipers already. Clear coating is your choice. However, if you are adding the stickers this is a MUST. You MUST add the clear coat on top of them. So what I do is line them up, stick them on, press them down good, and then clear coat two coats over them. This seals the stickers and protects them.

    Cross Drilled and/or Slotted Rotors: This does not have to be done, and there is even some debate to weather the drill/slotted adds anything, I am not going to get into that debate, I will say I like the look. Adding these at this point is VERY easy take out the single Torq bolt remove the old rotor, install the new unit, re-install the Torq bolt.

    [​IMG]

    So at this point you have added the optional things that you wanted to do. Now you will just need to re-install the guide pins, springs, caps etc. If you are re-using your old pads, then re-install them and put the retainer in place (basically reverse the removal process). If you are adding new or upgraded pads, then you will have to reset the piston. There is a tool for this. If you do not have it you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn the piston in while pushing them inward.

    I like to bleed the system down till I see fresh clear fluid. I personally use Motul 600. Whatever fluid you choose, you will need to bleed the system to make sure there are no air/bubbles in the system. Once you do this, replace the caps that keep the bleed screws clean if you still have them.

    So in conclusion, I feel this is what the JCW kit should have had from the rip: Brass Guides, Paint, and Logo Stickers. But you can do it now for not much time, money, or effort. When it’s completed it looks very nice and gives you that something different that we all love on our MINI’s.

    *The Brass Bushings do not have to be MINI as the MINI brakes are BMW units, and the brass guides have been the same size since the 60’s, so shop around and you can save a few dollars.

    Final Photos:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Steve

    Steve Administrator
    Staff Member Articles Moderator

    Apr 23, 2009
    12,154
    3,164
    113
    Maryland, USA
    Ratings:
    +3,166 / 0 / -0
  3. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
    19,424
    10,031
    113
    Retired old fart
    Hooterville Ohio USA
    Ratings:
    +11,656 / 2 / -0
    Very nice write up. :Thumbsup:

    If you are going to be tracking your MINI pass on the drilled rotors.
     
  4. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 4, 2009
    25,021
    13,497
    113
    Burbs of Philly, PA
    Ratings:
    +14,644 / 10 / -4
    I did this a while ago and I agree it is a nice set up. Nice work and write up. :Thumbsup:
     
  5. c0op3r

    c0op3r Active Member

    Oct 2, 2013
    196
    133
    43
    Mech Eng and IT
    Orlando FL
    Ratings:
    +133 / 0 / -0
    Thanx

    I am going to do another write up on upgrading your front brakes with a break down of 5 levels of upgrades.
     
  6. CoopCooper

    CoopCooper New Member

    Apr 30, 2014
    3
    0
    0
    I sell beer
    San Marcos Tx
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Ive got an R56 Cooper S and I need to replace the brakes soon. What are some good after market brakes I should look into getting for front and rear? Also, include thoughts on rotors, etc. Thanks
     
  7. Savvy

    Savvy Well-Known Member
    Lifetime Supporter

    Apr 16, 2010
    6,832
    2,011
    113
    Mechanical Engineer/DA Civilian
    DE
    Ratings:
    +2,024 / 0 / -0
    Daily driver or pure "track rat" toy? Or somewhere in the middle?
     
  8. Firebro17

    Firebro17 Dazed, but not Confused
    Lifetime Supporter

    Sep 18, 2010
    7,820
    3,327
    113
    Retired CAL FIRE Battalion Chief
    The Great Irrigated Desert of Central CA
    Ratings:
    +3,328 / 0 / -0
    If you upgrade to a big brake kit, I will buy your complete R56s front brake caliper set. I got burned by the o/p of the brake upgrade article posted above, having purchased what I was led to believe would be a better braking system for my R53. Well, it was not and I'm still in need of R56s components to properly make the change I am desiring.

    Please keep me in mind should you need to sell your parts.
     
  9. Canusrufis

    Canusrufis RMW Powered R53
    Lifetime Supporter

    Nov 27, 2013
    208
    103
    43
    Male
    Winston Salem NC
    Ratings:
    +107 / 0 / -0
    what went wrong?? I'm slowly acquiring parts now...
     
  10. Firebro17

    Firebro17 Dazed, but not Confused
    Lifetime Supporter

    Sep 18, 2010
    7,820
    3,327
    113
    Retired CAL FIRE Battalion Chief
    The Great Irrigated Desert of Central CA
    Ratings:
    +3,328 / 0 / -0
    Pm me and I'll go into detail.
     
  11. Mr. Jim

    Mr. Jim Mudshark
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 22, 2010
    3,390
    1,213
    113
    North Carolina
    Ratings:
    +1,221 / 0 / -0
    That's stuff he posted is only for the rear brakes, not the front.
     
  12. c0op3r

    c0op3r Active Member

    Oct 2, 2013
    196
    133
    43
    Mech Eng and IT
    Orlando FL
    Ratings:
    +133 / 0 / -0
    To be totally honest and with full disclosure, FireBro CLAIMS he got burned, but waited almost a year to bother to say that he was un-happy.

    I would of given him a refund, but to wait MONTHS on end and then say 'oh I am not happy' well that is unreasonable.:crazy:

    I am sure there are many other people that have bought from me that can attest to the fact that they were happy with what they got.
     
  13. Firebro17

    Firebro17 Dazed, but not Confused
    Lifetime Supporter

    Sep 18, 2010
    7,820
    3,327
    113
    Retired CAL FIRE Battalion Chief
    The Great Irrigated Desert of Central CA
    Ratings:
    +3,328 / 0 / -0
    Well Cooper, it's nice to see you surface here after ignoring my attempts to contact you the past couple of months. You're absolutely right, it did take nearly a year after I bought the parts from you to do the work. Parts that are of no benefit for me to install on my R53. You should have known when you sold them, that they were not correct. You and I have had this conversation.

    The truth of the matter is this: I was unable to drive my car, let alone do a brake install, for the greater part of a year, off and on, after sustaining my back injury. You know I've been completely up front with you about this. That being said, my dissatisfaction with you is that you have refused to provide me with the parts I believed I was buying from you, a set of R56s brakes and rotors. You know you sold me Justa brakes, no upgrade at all, yet you refuse to make good on the issue. I should have known better when you couldn't tell me what year or model MINI the brakes I was buying came off of.

    It would be nice if you would just do the ethical thing and accept the incorrect parts in return for the R56s components. I have already offered to pay for all the shipping necessary to make this happen. I would like you to accept this as a resolution to the problem, so that we may both move forward, no harm-no foul... You tell me what it will cost me for you to ship the correct parts to 93611 and I will Paypal you with the amount. I will even return your incorrect parts prior to receiving the correct parts from you. That is my gesture of integrity that I extend go you.

    If you find that this is an acceptable means to resolve our dispute, I certainly appreciate it and will look forward to a swift end to the process. Please send me an email with your address and these parts can be on their way back to you by Wednesday.
     
  14. c0op3r

    c0op3r Active Member

    Oct 2, 2013
    196
    133
    43
    Mech Eng and IT
    Orlando FL
    Ratings:
    +133 / 0 / -0
    #14 c0op3r, Jan 6, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015
    They do work and will work fine, just like I told you before. I am sorry that you could not install the parts until recently but that is not my fault. Again like I told you in emails before I WILL NOT BE TAKING THEM BACK. Now that its been said in a public forum maybe you will understand.

    I am sorry waiting a year to complain about something and wanting a refund is not acceptable, under any circumstance. You got exactly what you paid for, you got something at a value that is proportional to the cost paid. You waited a year to figure out its not exactly what you wanted or expected is on you for whatever reason that may be, eBay, PayPal, Target, Walmart Sears, AutoZone or C0op3r will not be offering you a refund or exchange after nearly a year.

    I was not hiding to surface from, I stopped wasting time communicating with you as there is nothing more to say. You decide to post on my threads and leave negative feedback about me in the hopes that I will refund you, I WILL NOT.

    Two weeks to a month might have been reasonable to let me know that you were unhappy and make an arrangement, but a year is NOT. If you would like to air this in the open forum then I will go dig up all the info from the original purchase, what you received, the correspondence we exchanged and I am pretty sure that just about everyone here will understand that your request is unreasonable.


    To the other members of MA I am sorry that FireBro felt the need to post this in a public forum and waste the reader(s) of this board/thread, to the moderators, if you wish to remove this from the thread or move it to a thread/section that is more appropriate (if such a place exist) then you have my blessing.
     
  15. mrntd

    mrntd Well-Known Member
    Supporting Member

    Sep 30, 2011
    5,083
    1,762
    113
    Male
    Sales and Marketing manager
    Hilliard, Ohio
    Ratings:
    +1,763 / 0 / -0
    FireBro if the calipers are 2nd gen they are the same between the justa and the S. The difference is the mounting bracket. The justa version will mount to an R53 with a stock size rotor. You will only need the brackets to use the R56 S rotors. You should be able to find them here: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market or RockAuto Parts Catalog.

    They are a silly price compared to the calipers. I bolted on the 2nd gen justa calipers and got slotted stock size rotors. With new pads and lines of course.

    Not defending anyone just trying to help out with the brakes.
     
  16. Firebro17

    Firebro17 Dazed, but not Confused
    Lifetime Supporter

    Sep 18, 2010
    7,820
    3,327
    113
    Retired CAL FIRE Battalion Chief
    The Great Irrigated Desert of Central CA
    Ratings:
    +3,328 / 0 / -0
    I had a few rebuttal paragraphs for you Cooper, some of which was actually positive. But, it's really not worth my time. Glad you were able to air your frustrations with me.

    Motor On.
     
  17. TheModFather

    TheModFather Well-Known Member

    May 15, 2012
    6,023
    5,310
    113
    11 years in the ARMY, 2 years of being a multitale
    North Denver CO.
    Ratings:
    +5,322 / 0 / -0
    So the R56 justa calipers are used with stock R53 rotors?

    If so, hold on to those Firebro... You might have a buyer this summer... The new wheels for the Rat only fit with stock 53 brakes, even then the bridge of the caliper needs shaved a little... If I can use the 56 justa calipers on the stock rotors it could work for me. :)
     
  18. mrntd

    mrntd Well-Known Member
    Supporting Member

    Sep 30, 2011
    5,083
    1,762
    113
    Male
    Sales and Marketing manager
    Hilliard, Ohio
    Ratings:
    +1,763 / 0 / -0
    Yup. The R56 caliper part is the same between the justa and the S. Just the mounting brackets are different. The justa mounting bracket blots right up. You get a bigger piston, a stronger mount, and a bigger surface area.
     
  19. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
    Supporting Member

    May 4, 2009
    8,767
    2,547
    113
    Bend, OR USA
    Ratings:
    +2,678 / 1 / -0
    We are still talking just about the rear calipers......right?
     
  20. c0op3r

    c0op3r Active Member

    Oct 2, 2013
    196
    133
    43
    Mech Eng and IT
    Orlando FL
    Ratings:
    +133 / 0 / -0
    No the fronts, the Rear on the R56 and 53 are not the same.

    Yes, that is all entirely true but according to FireBro the brakes he got are absolutely no upgrade from the factory R53 brakes! Even though I explained what you said exactly to him.
     

Share This Page