I am stumped on this one. Issue: at a local auto-x yesterday my throttle was extremly laggy. I (& co-driver) pressed the pedal in numerous fashions but it just felt dead for about 1-2sec. Key points: A) it was hot yesterday, and the issue seemed to get worse as each heat continued. B)fuel was at 3/4 tank C) oil was half a quart over filled D) I can't get it to duplicate the issue off course, regardless of speed or load on engine. The pedal is as responsive as ever, and the car pulls hard still. E) rpms didn't really matter, though the issue was slightly less apparent in the 5k+ range. F) my last run of the day, I rolled easy on the throttle, and seem to improve slightly. G) my CEL is constantly on (cat) but I have yet to pull the codes to see if there is anything new. H) fuel was done 25k miles ago, and the car currently has 112k on the clock. I have yet to get a chance to diagnois the car at home as I went straight to work after getting home. The car acted perfectly fine on my trip to and fro, w/ zero hiccups for the overall 500 miles. Just seeing if this rings any bells w/ you guys here. Sorry for the abrupt and poor grammer/spelled post, as I am doing this all from my phone... Thanks for ANY input or brainstorming you may contribute. -Ken
Just a SWAG, maybe it was so hot it went into some sort of limp or self preservation mode. Those codes may tell the tale.
Yea I would get those code's or code read. May have another one there, well hopefully, at least that would let you know what happened That's why I like my permanent mounted Scangauge and my FA tuning tool. Gives all the info I need :cornut:
Hi, I was the aforementioned co-driver of Ken's mini at this event. My first impression was that it was having a fuel starvation issue, but that was before I realized it was an electronic throttle system. I have to say that my blind diagnosis would probably lean towards excessive heatsoak of the intercooler. Our runs were VERY close together, and I know those intercoolers are bad enough on just stock boost, so I can only imagine how high the IAT's were reaching by the end. My reasoning for that diagnosis is this: Ken iced the intercooler for a little bit prior to our second session, and my first run on the second session seemed to have the least amount of throttle cut off. My last run, however, was absolutely horrific. I think my outburst of profanity at the end of that last run may have been a hint of that lol. Ken, thanks again for letting me co-drive. The car felt great (obviously aside from the throttle issue), and I'm jealous of your comfort and a/c. - Steven
Thanks for chiming in Steven. Yes a scangauge would have been useful, but there wasn't one. Ill likely be going w/ a OBDII bluetooth setup anyways as I have an app on my phone that can take advantage of the info for various reasons. I hope to get the videos of our runs up before long, but I need more consistent cell reception before I can. And NOOO problem, you are welcome to co-drive anytime.
Negative. That is one technique I've only tried a handful of times, and never in competition. That damn foot just isn't sensitive enough yet to modulate the pedal properly. Also, two different drivers w/ two driving styles, exact same issue.
That is interesting. I'm a right foot braker & had no clue our MINIs had a left foot braking nanny in them. Love those nanny's.... :mad2:
Sounds like a collapsing vacuum hose or intake boot. Something is choking the throttle, and I'd guess air rather than fuel. Heat can affect rubber hoses, too. Check the hoses around the bypass valve, too.
All thanks to the knee-jerk reaction after the Audi 5000 claims of un-intended acceleration. Most (if not all now) European cars have a system that cuts off throttle if the brakes are applied hard after a short period of time.
Thanks for the input guys. Ill be pulling the codes some time this evening, so hopefully those will shed a good amount of light on the subject. Last-night though, i repeated the issue. I was passing someone, and when i down-shifted then floored, the rpms were very sluggish to come back up. For what it is worth, i was going up a grade as i passed..
It was also like what...in the mid to upper 90s then too... Heat kills our little cars, mine is so unhappy right now.
One of two ways... 1. There is a small camera in the dash pointing down that is beams a picture back to an engineer in Germany that eats his sandwich with a knife and fork. When he sees the left foot hit the brake pedal a signal is sent out faster than the speed of light squared that tells the car shut down the accelerator. 2. When the ECU sees both pressure on the gas and brake at the same time it cuts the fuel. But does a MINI really do this? Where would we even ask?
When you left foot brake Jim your right foot remains on the gas. No gas & no brake at the same time. I think the Audrey 5000 gave us the shifter interlock nanny. The Ford Exploder & Firestone gave us the the air pressure nanny. Now the Camry & it's allegedly defective floor mats will make sure no one left foot brakes. My car was built before that happened so maybe it is a throwback to the 5000. They can add all the nanny's they please, but you can't fix stupid. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gxKStPXyn8]Ron White - Stupid is forever‏ - YouTube[/ame]
Gotta love those German's..... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh5xu35bAxA]FUNNY! SOS! MAYDAY! SINKING!‏ - YouTube[/ame]
Upper 90's?.........naa.....if that was the case we couldn't drive here for 6 months out of the year :lol: Yes, heatsoak at the I/C will hurt but from what he is describing it would have to be super high?
Well, thats a dead-end. Only code was a p0420 & p0420(pd), both are related to the fact i have no cat. So, now where to turn ? Guess it is time to yank the I/C and check the condition of the few vacuum hoses under it. Intake is a Alta hose, and as much as i dislike Alta products, i just dont see that collapsing from the vacuum of the s/c. The by-pass is a detroit tuned variant and only 20k miles young. The S/C Inlet tube and gasket were replaced at the same time as the by-pass. Coil is a 15k mile unit, and the wires and plugs are brand new (less then 2k miles).