1st Gen R53 Cooper S Major cooling system issues R53

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by Tummi_Gummi, Oct 11, 2014.

  1. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

    Nov 19, 2012
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    I have been having issue with my cooling system for some time now. I'll start off and list the mods and mileage, it's an 02 r53 with 280k miles along with hps silicone hoses as well as some of the stock hoses behind the motor that route to the heater core inlet at the firewall and heat exchanger, I have a csf aluminum radiator and an eBay aluminum expansion tank, a new oem water pump as well. Been having issues with the expansion tank running dry and various clamps leaking at the lower of the expansion tank and radiator so I got them snug and replaced the expansion tank cap. Now for a while I've noticed occasionally coolant smoke coming from bonnet and not always been blow out from the expansion tank. Also seen a lot of coolant puddles under the radiator passenger side tank, then today discovered a leak at the core to the passenger side tank weld. Explains the puddle, it was hissing out with bubbles. The cooling system seems to have to much pressure but I can't figure out why it's got to be the expansion tank not allowing the cap to properly function. I properly bled the coolant when I did a all the work but still find it bone dry every day or two after constantly topping it off. I ordered the oem expansion tank to replace the aluminum one. I don't think I have a blown hg, the cylinders seemed to have low compressions at about 130 to 138 psi each but they held it. There is no coolant being burnt or at least no coolant smoke from my exhaust. Is there a cheap good choice for radiator replacement? I hate to buy a sketchy eBay one but shelled out 400 for csf and look where I'm at now. What should I do? I'm going to have to keep driving it because I work 20miles away and to my only car.
     
  2. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

    Jan 25, 2010
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    The radiator can be fixed...
    Radiator repair shops will weld/braze them for about $40-50...
    They work on mostly classic cars and commercial trucks that still have all metal radiators that can still be fixed and re-cored.
    As for silicone hoses....
    Many brands are junk....more eye candy than useful...
    Modern edpm rubber hoses (stock) easily last 10+ years, and sometimes 200,000 miles...syenthic fibers in them don't rot, and the newer edpm hoses conduct electricity... Lengthing their life...older rubbers failed due to the cords rotting or the rubber degrating due to tiny electial voltages in the cooling system due to corrosion dammsging the rubber...
     
  3. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

    Nov 19, 2012
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    Installed the spectra industries radiator. Fit perfectly and had no issues with it. Car seems to be running good now. No leaks yet coolant temps are good. The csf radiator began gushing coolant out of what looks like about a 2 mm crack now. Glad I got that off. Also got the oem expansion tank on there and changed my oil. Oil looked great had all 5 qts still after 2 months.
     
  4. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

    Nov 19, 2012
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    If coolant no longer leaks out I'll give my car 1 more shot with high temperatures. If it runs uncontrollably high 230+ keeps going up at idle in traffic then I'll verify there's no air in my system and if that's true then assume my head gasket is blown or heads warped. I did tell you guys that the cars coolant got to 260F for about 20 seconds once when a plastic T fitting snapped right? May explain my blown radiator and oscillating boost
     
  5. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Jul 31, 2009
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    If your coolent and oil looks good then I don't think it's your head gasket. It may be a intermittent fan failure. My sons BMW had this happen it drove me up a wall. I would check it and it would work then a few weeks later it would over heat agine. I was told it was a new fan by the previous owner. Finally I check the fan motor and it was notchy.
     
  6. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    I didn't have any fluid cross contamination. I have had to do the low speed bypass mod because the exposed resistor rusted through and stopped working. (Imagine that). I'll check the fuses and make sure it's not blown again.
     
  7. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Spin the fan if it is notchie replace it. I have seen bad motors that don't blow the fuse. If it stops at a bad spot it won't start turning. It sounds to me like a bad fan motor. Its cheep insurance, you have already bypassed the low speed resister. In my opinion that is just a way getting a little more use out of the fan.
     

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