1st Gen R53 Cooper S No Power

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by ddc_anb, Jun 18, 2013.

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  1. ddc_anb

    ddc_anb New Member

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    #1 ddc_anb, Jun 18, 2013
    For starts hello everyone im sorry that i didnt introduce myself. I have a huge issue. Yesterday when I got in my Mini I started it and was going for a ride. After about 5 minutes all of my gauges and my tach just stopped working. It also showed that I wasn't moving and every time I pressed the accelerator my battery indicator light would come on. I had the battery tested and it showed that it was fine. The alternator tested that it was at high voltage. With no load it was at 15.40 volts and at 74.3 amps. When loaded it was at 13.53 volts and 39.5 amps. When I tried to start the car back it would not start but if I boosted it off it would run fine but if I pressed the accelerator it would show the battery indication light. What could be wrong with my Mini. Btw it's a 2004 s model with 50,150 miles on it.
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #2 Nathan, Jun 18, 2013
    Welcome, thanks for joining Motoring Alliance, the FUN and Friendly MINI Community.

    Check the fuse box under the bonnet. Sometimes the relays in there can work loose. Make sure they are all firmly in plugged in.
     
  3. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #3 Metalman, Jun 18, 2013
    Check that "Batt" post connection and ground connection..... They have been known to be culprits resulting in weird electrical issues...
     
  4. ddc_anb

    ddc_anb New Member

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    #4 ddc_anb, Jun 18, 2013
    I did a continuity test today.
    When I test from the negative post to ground it says that something is pulling 12+- volts. I had nothing running in the car and the doors were shut.
     
  5. quikmni

    quikmni Moderator

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    #5 quikmni, Jun 18, 2013
    Was the key on of off when you saw the 12V short?

    Start looking around for any power cables that could be rubbing on ground (metal) somewhere. I would check wires leaving the battery compartment and then look around the engine compartment. Have any electrical accessories been added to the car that could be shorting out somewhere because their wiring is not in one of the OEM harnesses?

    Also I have seen the O2 sensor wires wear through the wire insulation where clipped on the bottom of the car but that short should not been seen with the key off.
     
  6. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    #6 DneprDave, Jun 18, 2013
    You can start pulling fuses and check the voltage draw after each fuse you pull. Then replace the fuse and pull the next one. When you pull a fuse and the voltage draw goes away, you've found the circuit with the problem.

    Dave
     
  7. ddc_anb

    ddc_anb New Member

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    #7 ddc_anb, Jun 18, 2013
    How I did it was I had the key off and the doors shut so the I terror lights wouldn't come on. When I would test from negative to ground it would show a 12v drain.
     
  8. CHKMINI

    CHKMINI Club Coordinator
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    #8 CHKMINI, Jun 18, 2013
    Check the jump stud post and connection in the small black box next to the ECU. These have been known to come loose and/or corrode.
     
  9. papa-j

    papa-j Active Member
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    #9 papa-j, Jun 18, 2013
    Hi - To rule out something that happened to my 2004 R53, When you are in the battery well look to be sure there was no water standing down in there. Last year I found there had been a lot of water standing in mine and it caused plenty trouble.
    It had corroded a bus bar in that orange distribution block next to the battery. The degree of corrosion on the bars wasn't visible until popping open the cover (per image).
     

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  10. ddc_anb

    ddc_anb New Member

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    #10 ddc_anb, Jun 19, 2013
    I had standing water in there but I didn't see any corrosion. I will check again just to be sure. Thanks for all the great advise!
     

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