1st Gen R53 Cooper S P0171, P1237, and now P1688. Help appreciated!

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by nismo4life, Mar 6, 2014.

  1. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

    Jan 31, 2012
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    So in the last few months I've had the following codes pop up. I'm not able to begin the process to try and resolve them but I would really appreciate your assistance as I feel bad bothering Chad and TJ @ Detroit Tuned though they've been more than extraordinarily helpful. I will try and be as detailed as I can, hopefully someone can see what is going on here.

    Purchased the car in Dec. 2012 with 126,513 miles completely bone stock. Have 30 pages worth of service history indicating that the following was changed.

    -Thermostat
    -Passenger motor mount
    -A/C Compressor

    Drove it up until 134,714 miles with a couple of bolt ons to which point the stock original clutch gave out and I did a big overhaul. I changed out at that time;

    -Input Shaft Seal
    -TOB Guide Tube
    -Rear Main Seal
    -Valve Cover Gasket
    -Valve Cover Hardware
    -Plugs
    -Wires
    -Shifter Cables
    -Clutch
    -Ported & rebuilt supercharger
    -15% pulley
    -Boost gauge
    -Powerflex FLCA bushings
    -Quaife
    -Fuel filter

    Over the next 3,000 miles it ran without much of an issue.

    *On 9/15 I ordered a DT BPV as I noticed the throttle response had started to get pretty terrible. I received and installed it before I drove down to H2Oi which was the last weekend of September. That round trip alone was roughly 900 miles. A few days later I did another 1,000 mile round trip helping my girlfriend move from Northern Maine back to Connecticut. I figure within the course of the next few weeks I accumulated an additional 600 miles or so. That being said over 2,500 miles after I installed the BPV I got a check engine light on 10/27 registering P0171 on my way to her house. P0171 has been persistent ever since then.

    *A short time after that I'd have to say around early November P1237 started showing up with it as well. I'd scan and clear the codes, they'd come back a few miles later. I wasn't in a position to resolve the issue at the time so I just dealt with the horrific gas mileage.

    *Around late December/Early Jan I started seeing P1688 and some weird driving quirks.

    3 times now the car has died on me. Throttle response will be maybe 5% at WOT. I have to shut it off and start it back up and the throttle seems like its back to normal. I noticed at some point in October/Nov that the car had a weird hesitation/hiccup when letting off throttle after building some boost. Below is a video showing what I mean.

    [ame=http://youtu.be/DuuJu8_Z9kk]R53 hiccup - YouTube[/ame]

    I then started to notice the boost was fluctuating when applying partial throttle only ever occurring under 3,000 rpms. I suspect this has something to do with the ECU switching over from open/closed loop? Video below of example.

    [ame=http://youtu.be/e5QG6FvqHsc]Boost fluctuation - YouTube[/ame]

    Finally, its hard to tell in the only video I have but when I go WOT the boost seems to dance around. It doesn't vary by much but the needle itself is very shaky, as well as I can feel a very minimal vibration which is only when the car is under heavy load. I suspect both of those things are probably signs that my crank pulley is going to **** the bed soon?

    Now, I replaced the secondary MAP sensor since I assumed it was probably faulty because its old. P0171 did not go away surprise surprise :frown2:. It should also be noted that at idle with the a/c off the gauge registers 18 in/hg of vacuum. From what I've been told by very many people the magic number is 18, dropping down to 16-14 when the a/c is activated which the car does.

    Also, when I did all the work I didn't replace any of the gaskets on the intake tract. I also noticed the tab had broken on the throttle body -> supercharger inlet tube so I ordered a new one, as well as a new profile gasket, throttle body gasket, post intercooler horn to manifold gasket, in hope that my gauge just sucks and I do intact have a boost leak. I also got new Alta boost as upon closer inspection it seems I cut the smaller one on 2 spots when trying to install it before I realized the magic way is to slid the assembly onto the manifold with the boot already on the intercooler. Back to the point they don't seem to leak, but I am changing them anyway.

    Now I'm posting this because its driving me absolutely bat **** insane and I'd really like the car 100% so I can attempt my first track day at Lime Rock in April. Also because I have an underlying feeling in my oh so pessimistic fashion that this will not fix the first 2 codes. I'm pretty sure the 1688 is the crank pulley from what people seem to have mentioned before, as well as the vibration that occurs only under load and the shaky needle. It only makes sense. As for the other 2 codes, is there anything you guys could think of that might be the cause or I should look at to replace???

    I did briefly check all the PVC lines and they seemed fine.

    Sorry for the long post, I figured its better to be thorough rather than leave out potentially critical information :eek:. Greatly appreciate any advice.
     
  2. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: No help here so I'll just Bump.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  3. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

    Jan 31, 2012
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    Haha no worries. Thanks for reading! :Thumbsup:
     
  4. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    First get rid of the ALTA silicone tubes or IC couplers because they all leak and cause boost leaks. The OEM black flexible rubber ones make a much better seal.

    Second fix / replace your crank damper, because if that thing goes on you have a tow truck # available.

    Replace it with an ATI OEM sized Damper or the Fluid Filled Damper that is available. (I forget the name of it)

    After those things are corrected then let us know how everything is. Things should be a lot better but you could have a throttle body seeing the end of its life but I would not replace it now since you have two bigger issues above that need to be addressed first that could resolve all the problems.
     
  5. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    Thanks Dave. Waiting on some MK2 stuff to sell from the car I parted out so I can order a crank pulley. I'll probably go with the ATI since its less than $100 more than an oem one and I've seen that its pretty much bulletproof. Hopefully I don't need a throttle body :(. I'm heading over to the shop now, I'll let you know what happens tonight.
     
  6. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    #6 nismo4life, Mar 7, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2014
    Ok so small update. I installed everything onto the car, it now idles like garbage. Not sure what it could be so at some point this weekend or early next week I'm going to attempt to fabricate a smoke tester. If I can't I'll have to get it towed to my friends garage and smoke test it for free after they close.

    What its currently doing now. The increase in revs is from me. Throttle response seems fine so I don't think its the TB, at least yet. Sigh….I hate cars.

    [ame= surge - YouTube[/ame]

    EDIT:

    Bought a cigar and used my lungs to smoke test the car blowing through a PCV hose. Well it worked lol! New inlet tube is defected. Was never sealed properly at the s/c end.
    4A580FA6-82AA-4260-9BA0-BED712936B20_zps45zei54a.jpg
     
  7. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

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    you have to be really careful when installed the DT BPV...if you arent you can crack that inlet tube...also check your vac hoses coming from and to the Intake manifold, inlet pipe and supercharger...if you get a cracked one it can cause a inconsistent boost pressure and could cause a shutdown..i chased a P1776 code which tuned out to be a cracked rubber vac boot...replaced the boot and all was well again...instead of the ATI damper look at the Fluidyne(thats the name of it Dave) damper that Rmw sells...less expensive than the ATI and its SFI approved...i had one in my car for over 100k miles with nary an issue...
     
  8. Joker

    Joker New Member

    Feb 14, 2014
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    You definitely have a positive and a vacuum leak possibly on the charge pipes and possibly a vacuum leak at the intake. Id suggest you smoke the both intake and exhaust.
     
  9. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    I'll take a peak and see what I can find about them, glad to know theres someone with serious mileage on one, and I'm always ok with saving money! Thanks for the heads up.

    I'm hoping the car runs, at least how it did before I changed all this, once the inlet tube comes in so I don't have to drive the drift car anymore and can focus on fabricating a smoke tester this weekend so I can properly do it with some pressure in the system rather than blowing into a hose with a cigar hahaha.

    As for positive are you referring to a boost leak?
     
  10. Joker

    Joker New Member

    Feb 14, 2014
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    Yes , im currently finishing up an r55 that we bought from the auction,had to do a complete rebuild. Although it was turbo and not super charged the symptoms and dtc are almost identical. At first it just idled rough and a constant barage of fuel trim codes. Gradually became worst more turbo lag and decrease in boost pres. Then smoke. I smoked the turbo and intake system , found the oil feed li e for the turbo leak even while engine off , thinking that it was the oil dripping on the impeller that caused the start up smoke but it was not. Finally and very reluctantly , having only 52k miles on it i checked the piston rings by smoking from the bottom through the oil dipstick and surprised to see smoke coming out of # 4 , took the engine appart expecting bent or melted rings but found a cracked piston. Im trying to figure out how to attach pictures so i can show you what happened to the piston and engine before and after rebuild.
     
  11. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

    Jan 31, 2012
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    Oh wow. Well I have a compression tester so I could do that. Actually I might just for ha ha's.

    What year is the R55? I thought those cars had a known issue with oil consumption via bad rings, so if everything looked fine that might be the only explanation?

    And for photos I can't help you other than suggest you use a 3rd party site like imgur, photobucket, or imageshack. That's what I do for all my uploads.
     
  12. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

    May 16, 2009
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    actually they are different joker...smoking a 2nd gen exhaust you may need to do because a turbo is spooled by exhaust gasses so if you are getting a leak and back pressure it can leech power from the turbo... where as the 1st gen uses a supercharger and all of the boost is in the intake side...like i said i had a leak in my R53's exhaust for awhile and all it did was smell funny...didnt cause any issues beyond that and i had a RMW street header with a magnaflow exhaust...bout as high flow as it gets but a R53 needs backpressure but a 2nd gen is hurt by that same back pressure
     
  13. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

    May 16, 2009
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    in nismo's case if he is getting inconsistent boost pressures/vac he needs to smoke the intake side only...its pretty easy to see if you have a leak in your exhaust system...because there is already high pressure gasses just feel for a leak and give a sniff... also i wouldnt go so far as to do a compression test...there are codes that will throw for cylinder misfires and low compression...pull your spark plugs and look at the color and see if there is any damage to them
     
  14. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

    Jan 31, 2012
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    Yeah true, but for 145k I'm curious now to see how my little motor's holding up. I can tell you that I could see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls when I did an oil pan gasket and absolutely 0 flakes in the pan.

    I found this over the weekend, and its just too cool of a little project not to do as well as the endless uses.

    DIY smoke machine tester!!

    But for what its worth I put everything back together fired the car up to see how it idled. Throttle response is significantly sharper than when I parked it. I am going to button everything up and head over to Advanced Auto and clear the codes and see what comes back. I'm still going to smoke test it though either way and I will upload a video of my crank pulley tomorrow when I replace the broken washer reservoir pump. It definitely doesn't spin true..
     
  15. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    So updating this for anyone who has might have this issue in the future. I changed the driver side horn to intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, and inlet tube which had the charger side tab missing and the profile gasket on the blower and it fixed it. I do think the latter was the fix, but glad its fixed. I still have some kinks to work out though but thankfully so far it seems it fixed it. The fluctuation @ WOT is gone too!

    [ame=http://youtu.be/k2WZdhQUw_M]P0171 fixed - YouTube[/ame]
     
  16. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Glad you got everything worked out and are running at WOT again with boost. :Thumbsup:
     
  17. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    Thanks Dave, me too! God I missed 34mpg on the highway :D
     
  18. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    So false alarm, CEL came back on today just for the P0171, though I'm sure the other two will show up too :mad:. Smoke testing the car on Sunday at my buddys old shop. We'll see what the outcome is.
     
  19. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    Smoke tested the car yesterday, found 1 leak and it was from the diaphragm on the bpv which TJ @ DT told me is normal at very small quantities which is what it appeared to be. So no pcv/vac leaks, what next. Anyone have any ideas?!
     
  20. nismo4life

    nismo4life New Member

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    Anyone??!?!?!!?!?!?!

    I scanned it again today and its soley P0171 now.

    Freeze frame data:
    Trouble Code P0171
    Absolute TPS 16.9%
    Engine Speed 3022
    Calculated Load 30.2%
    Map (inch/hg) 10.6
    Coolant 189*
    IAT 48*
    Ignition Advance 49.5*
    ST Fuel Trim 14.1%
    LT Fuel Trim 6.3%
    Fuel System 1 Closed


    Any ideas?
     

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