Reading the Haynes manual for replacing CV boots seems overcomplicated - so I did it my own way and wanted to let you all know how I did it and if you can think of any reason why my way is incorrect or incomplete. Step 1.) Break passenger wheel lugs loose before getting the car off the ground. Step 2.) Lift and support passenger side of vehicle Step 3.) Remove front passenger wheel Step 4.) Remove brake caliper and rotor Step 5.) Remove Axle Nut Step 6.) Remove hub (mine required a puller to get hub off the axle) Step 7.) Remove strut to steering knuckle bolt and drop knuckle off of strut (a little tricky for stock suspension, but doable) Step 8.) Push axle inward towards transmission to help axle go through steering knuckle to free it from the assembly Step 9.) Undo large clap around inner cv boot Step 10.) pull axle straight out, don't let the bearings fall out Step 11.) place axle in a table vice grip with something soft (we used wood blocks) Step 12.) use your desired method of applying impact to the CV Joint. Hammer+Block works.. we used an air chisel with soft aluminum punch Step 13.) Take all boots off, clean things up, re-install new boots and clamp up the two small clamps while everything is easy to access (inner boot AND outer boot reference) Step 14.) Compress new c-clip and slide CV joint on. Use a nice rubber mallet and knock it back up the axle until it is right back up in place. Install the clamp for the boot and the joint. Step 15.) Slide axle back into place on the vehicle and make your last clamp. Step 16+.) reverse uninstall from steps 1-8 and clean up any lube. *IMPORTANT NOTE* I did not mention the cleaning or reinstalling of lubricant. They are SPECIFIC to inner and outer joints. Make sure to clean them up and reapply new lube that comes with the kits. *SECONDARY NOTE* I used aftermarket CV boots from PelicanParts.com The factory ones ranged from $50-$60 each. The replacements I got were $9.00 and $13.00 and look identical to the factory units. They cam with replacement C-Clips, Clamps, Lube and an Axle nut. I don't recommend the axle nut though - it does not have a large surface face to mate with the hub like the factory unit.
Not sure about your procedure....but a few thoughts... Since it is so hard to get the CV joint 100% clean after a boot has torn, folks often just replace the entire assembly (if it is torn, the dirt is already in the lube, and the damage has already been done.....)...if the boot is just cracked...and you are preemptively changing it out....then no worries. Folks have had iffy luck with cheap CV joints and modded MINI's....Most are recommending to get the OEM, or the "better" aftermarket ones...."race" are not needed, but the cheap ones seem to fall apart, literately, in a few miles...might be OK for a MINI ONE......and they do fit a US cooper or cooper S, but should you...that is a different story...the grade of the metal is just too low.
It was just a small crack that I had originally patched and wanted to fix correctly. It was clean. No CJ joints were replaced - just boots. Thank you for the tips!
I have my sub-frame down to replace the control arm bushings. I found that the right inner CV boot is torn all the way around on the small end. Is it possible to replace the boot without removing the half shaft, or would it be best to pull it so I can make sure to clean it well? I have to get the car on the road by Sunday and still have to finish the bushings and replace the oil pan gasket. Time is a factor but I need to do it right. To make it more fun I crushed the bone in my pinky and had to get stitches in it last night when the pry-bar slipped. Just call me graceful. Thanks
I'd concentrate on the axle and let the oil pan wait for another time, chances are it's just weeping where if the cv joint fails you're parked. They do make boots that you can install without removing the joint, but the right way to do it is to remove the joint so that you can inspect it for wear and clean it properly.
Thanks I got lucky. when I took the half shaft out it was still in good shape So I was able to clean it up and put a OEM boot back on.
Nice quick little write up I had to change my inner boot today because of a tiny 1/4" tear I will say the job was quite a pain. Although I didn't have to remove as much as you did. I simply pulled the strut and unbolted the speed sensor. the knuckle moves around enough on the ball joint to get the axle out I just made sure to prop the knuckle up while working on the boots so the ball joint wouldn't be stressed the whole time. another note, My cheap cv crimp tool broke on the first big clamp on the outer joint. then after it was all assembled I heard air coming from the inner boot turns out the big clamp there wasn't tight enough yet. I didn't particularly like how the inner doesn't have ribs like the outer joint does. keeping my fingers crossed that I got it all back together properly :fingerscrossed: only time will tell I guess.
Another approach to replacing the inner boot on the passenger (right) side, while on your back. Pop the tie rod ball joint, unbolt the outer ball joint bracket & pry down, remove the half-shaft bearing bracket bolts, remove the cover near the output shaft, push the steering knuckle outward with foot or knee while carefully guiding the driveshaft from the differential. Protect the driveshaft splines with a covering to keep clean and avoid dings. Lube remaining in the tripod housing will make a mess when the damaged boot is pulled away, be prepared with a catch pan. Unclip the snap-ring on the shaft end, pull the bearing joint with a ball joint extractor or small bearing puller. Slide the old boot off, new on, tap the bearing joint back on, replace the snap-ring, pour new lube in the tri-pod housing while holding upright, slowly insert the bearing end into the housing while keeping the housing upright, pull the boot over carefully so as not to displace lube, secure the band clamps. Snap ring on the end of the drive shaft. Two jaw puller shown below, a three jaw/arm puller would fit better, but since the joint is not tight-fit pressed over the splines, a little offset won't matter. A ball joint separator works OK when used in three stages, no shim to begin with, a shallow nut to pull further, followed by a socket to finish removal. The tripod boot has two types of clamps, the large diameter clamp will need right angle need nose pliers (if the proper tool is not available), and the small clamp uses a crimping tool.
Also, when unbolting the control arm outer ball joint from the steering knuckle, undo the two bolts attached knuckle and leave the ball joint attached to the control arm. A couple taps from a hammer will pop it out of the knuckle. Slather the ball joint in anti seize when you reassemble. It's not necessary to remove the knuckle from the control arm, but it's much easier. You have to bang the driver's side into the transmission, and the passenger side needs an extra hand to keep the center support bearing bracket lined up. If you try to pop the ball joint out from the control arm, this is what can happen when the puller slips: Lesson learned... the hard way.
To avoid bolt damage when separating a ball joint with an extractor, unscrew the nut enough so the threads are protected on the end of the bolt shaft, and leave the nut in place. The ball joint separator tool shown above is appropriate for the tie rod ball joint, not the outer ball joint.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more I used the tool all the way to the left in the photo.