I'm looking to upgrade my headers on my '03 MCS. I already have magnaflow cat-back. I am thinking of running catless and I am looking for suggestions on brands or just any ideas.
Best design out there, but expensive... Got to pay to play. Why settle for a cheapie because you have the $$$ now, then spend until you do it right fixing the inferior product and wondering where the performance gain is?
If you want to spend the money to get the best performance, then yes you have 2 choices, the RMW shorty or the Mynes V2. Personally I've used both, the performance gains are about the same. Honestly the difference is so close you'll have more of a change in performance from simple weather conditions than you will either header. As far as sound the RMW is slightly louder under normal conditions, where the V2 is louder under WOT, the RMW is slightly throatier where as the V2 sounds a little higher pitched but tighter. The real difference is design type, all headers for our cars need some kind of flexable joint for movement, the RMW utalizes a flexable "basket" similar to the stock manifold, the V2 uses a spring loaded clamp and exhaust donut at the end of the header. **(No matter which one you use, the TSW/WMW solid upper motor mount or something similar is a must for the longevity of either of these joints)** Also as far as differences the RMW uses a weld on CAT, the V2 uses a bolt on design that comes with a straight pipe to run cat-less or you can supply or buy a CAT for it. If you decided on one of the less expensive headers, again they will perform similar to each other and you will basiclly just be choosing which design you like best, which mostly boils down to maintenance & repair, weld on flex basket or replaceable donut. (the baskets last a pretty long time but when they go you have to pull the header & either replace it or weld on a new basket, the donuts usually have to be replaced 1 to 2 times a year. Again, the solid upper motor mount reduces movement and lets either design last longer.) Then weld on or bolt on CAT.
I have also had both and I sold the Mynes header. I did not like the sound at all. "Honda-ish" "Boyracer style" Also you don't need a solid upper mount. You can buy a Vibratechnics Engine mount. It's much better than OEM and not rock rigid like the TSW upper mount. Mini Cooper S R53 04 06 - Vibra-Technics Compliance Technology
Yep. Vibratechnics upper mount is the way to go. It's what should have come on the car to start with...
Never had the RMW, love the design though. I have heard it on several cars and love the sound as well. But I will defend my Mynes V2, no boy racer sound here with a JCW exhaust . Does anyone still use the OBX? I never compared how the ports match up but it is oval and not D correct?
Mynes V2 with JCW here also and defiantly no boy racer sound. The RMW looks like a nice header also, I think at the time I got the Mynes, RMW only had the shorty race header.
Let me first say all headers and sounds are all open to everyones own personal opinions, so my opinion may not be a refection of the masses. (see above) I had both connected to a Milltek and I was not a fan of the Mynes. FYI I had the first version. (V1) the V2 may be completely different now but I am not a fan of replacing exhaust donuts. The RMW headers street and race (race = no CAT) have been real high performance Mini staples for a long time and I decided to go with time tested performance and customer support. Many people say in am a fanboy and I am I biased to Jan and RMW. All these people would be 100% correct. They are darn right I am because Jan has never screwed me over once and is always available for advice and troubleshooting any issues I have had over the years. Colin is also a great asset at RMW and is very knowledgeable resource as well. A few things to remember when buying any performance parts for your Mini. What are you going to do with the car in the end? (track, show, just sound good) What is your goal? ( see above) What is your total budget? (and are you being realistic) Do you know how to drive? Not to be a jackass here just saying go fast parts and HP do not make good drivers. After you answer the four questions above you can start down the next list of questions or start saving money. Who makes it? Where is it made and what material "steel" is used? How long have they been is business? Customer service? How many people have them and like them? Price should not a limit if you want the best made, tested and reliable part for years. Remember the old saying: "you get what you pay for" and "you have to pay to play" Congrats of buying a Mini and deciding to step on the slippery slope of modding it. I see fun times and driving in your future. Let the modding begin.
Headers.. The two are also the most expensive!! Great Header, Fantastic design. Race car design ( sprint type). Great port design (OVAL), flange and tubing is thick for less noise and bolting up ease. Issue?? the huge oval exhaust flange will require the HEAD matched to the Flange for the best result, or in other words, the height is the same as all the rest of the Headers out there.. the side to side is a LOT MORE for better high speed scavenge ( OEM 1.320 " Port / Ported Head 1.600" port / Port ported to the OBXr header is 1.810" Allowing for a great cross section). Collector is nothing special. Bolts up cat-less to the OEM exhaust, or replace the 'cat- tester pipe' with a cat and be bunny rabbit friendly!! As with most headers , TUNE will optimize the power gained thru the add'l scavenge effect. Bolting a $800.00 set of Headers to a crappy exhaust system.. will also , of course diminish the power gains.. Full time track car?? Mostly track car?? High rpm car..?? Or just a nice 240WHP DD car?? You decide... cool?? Just saying................................... Thumper PS: OBXr were on ebay for $185.00??
As a note to the replacing donuts. I have not seen any issues on the cars with aftermarket engine mounts, but on cars without they chew them up like crazy. BUt thats just my observation. The V2 is much different from the V1. I have had a Miltec, Super Sprint, and Mini Mania v1. I like my Mynes V2 over all those. But again, never had the RMW header but will say its a quality looking item with lots of good testimonials.
I've had the Stahl and RMW Race... Stahl was to big, even with a big valve head. Made more power when I went to the RMW Race. It's a great looking header too, to bad it is hidden under the car. Loud, well yeah. Probably could be quieted some with mufflers instead the resonators I use. But then again, I'm 12 years old and laugh like hell every time I crack the throttle.
Mines the same setup too, I don't think it sounds "ricer" either, honestly the biggest benefit for me is maintenance, anything other than replacing the header itself can be done with it still installed.
To add to the subject: Flex pipes, They will eventually burn out. However that could be YEARS down the road. That is why OEM manufacturers no longer use the doughnut seals, when a car has a 100,000 mile waranty (Typical of manufacturers theese days) they dont want you to come in to the service department once or twice a year to have the exhaust doughnuts replaced. The flex pipes are harder to replace when needed, but chances are slim to even need to change it out for a long while. The exhaust doughnut... Well Ford Model T comes to mind when I think of the technology that was current when they where thought up. Do they seal the exhaust? YES... Do they deal well with any movement from the exhaust? NO. Any car with FWD has lots of front to back movement in the engine, and this tries to kink the exhaust. Whoever thought up using a seal that does not do well with movement on something that is constantly moving simply was not in the right frame of mind when they made the design. They might be "EASY" to replace but if the design was well thought out you shuld have no reason to replace them. As for the "I have to replace my doughnuts ONCE OR TWICE A YEAR" I see this as UNACCEPTABLE. Things to add to prolong the life of your exhaust flex fitting nomatter what style you choose: As stated stiffer engine mounts. Theese are not for everyone though. Dont care who makes them, what style they are, what kind of material is used in making them... If their design is truly "Stiffer than stock" they WILL add more vibration than stock. Typicaly the lower engine mount has the biggest effect at stabilising the rocking motion of the engine, so that would be the one that would save your exhaust the most. You can also upgrade the hardware... Exhaust bolts rust fast, and it might be worth going to stainless hardware. (Especially if you need to take your joint apart 1-2 times a year to replace your doughnut seals.) If possible find a header (YES NOT HEADERS!!! for cryin out loud MINI's only have ONE!) and exhaust system that uses V-band connections. They offer a better seal and are easyer to service than the typical bolt and flange setups. As for the sound of the exhaust system + header debate: Well that is all personal prefferance... Listen to multiple setups for the one you like.
All of this is very helpful. I will continue to look into all the advice given. It will probably be near the end of the hear that I do my header. First things first are ignition system and SC pulley which should be happening this next week. Oh and just so we all are on the same page. My mini is a DD but with the weekend back road runner. Plenty of hills and twistys here in the northwest. Oh another thing to remember is that every two years I will have to go to DEQ to pass emissions. I'm not too worried about doing the extra work crawl back under to make her pass. I'll be sure to bring up more questions as they arise.
I hope you are not changing the coil pack unless it's to a new STOCK unit. All of the aftermarket units have prooven troublesome. MSD has become known to be the magic red miisfire box, the Screamin Deamon also causes misfires and dosent even live up to its higher output rating. Its best to keep the STOCK coil (It even performs flawlessly on near 500 HP MINI's). Do feel free to swap out the wires to a good low resistance wire, and change the plugs. For plugs I suggest the NGK Irridium IX in the 7 heat range, keep the gap close to the stock .30.:wink: Your list of mods sounds pretty typical, and has been prooven to perform over the years. If you where planing on a coil pack, and decide to can that idea... Get a new pre-cat O2 sensor. Again only go with the FACTORY parts (The AutoZone specials dont last). It's just semi cheap insurance that everything is running up to spec before you decide to get a tune.:cornut: