Fellow Motorers, My 2013 R56 (non S) has a problem with glazed brake rotors. Under light brake pedal pressure I notice a pulsation. Sometimes worse than other times. The car was back at the dealer twice. They checked the rotor run-out and noted them within specs. After some research on this beloved forum, the real cause for my brakes' behavior is "glazing" and not warping. The questions are: 1) should I replace the pads with a more aggressive version, and resurface the rotors? 2) if the rotors should be replaced also, I would like to upgrade to a slotted design. 3) would it be noticeable/beneficial if I would upgrade to the "S" size brake rotors at the same time? (I do run 17" Enkei Imola's.) I am not in any position to install a $1200 brake system, nor do I believe my driving style would benefit from it. I do drive mostly highway and interstate. For the occasional high speed brake maneuver, I do need good brakes. Briefly, I installed a pair of inferior rotors, to see if they make a difference. They were toast withing 4000 miles. (Actually warped!) Current mileage on the car is 26000. Any input is greatly appreciated. Que
I'd pull the pads & sand them a bit. Then I'd clean the rotors with brake clean & then by going out & making some very hard stops to clean the pad build up off the rotors.
Hawk blues are used by many to get the pad deposits off, if they'll fit your calipers. Just don't leave them on.... You can also gently sand the rotors and re-bed the pads. Problem is you can't actually see the pad deposits. Whatever you do, just make sure to do a proper bed in procedure, it'll help prevent any further issues. Probably most importantly, why/how did you get pad deposits? I've only had this issue after tracking my car, some pads are definitely more prone to it than others, and choosing the proper pad for the proper application is critical.
Thank you both for your inputs. I did the sanding of the pads once, however never did a "bedding procedure" after that. Not certain, how I get the pad deposits. One thing I noticed, these pads are different than the OEM pads I had on my '08 R55. Those created more dust, that when left on the wheels created though to remove spots, where these 2013 OEM pads hardly create dust, that cleans off very easy even after weeks. I tend to be very easy on my brakes (fear of warping the rotors), and as soon as the car comes to a stop, I release the pedal. There were a few times on longer trips, where I had to jump on the brakes. That almost instantly killed those inferior rotors I had on there for a while. Looked at the pads tonight and the RH inner (against the piston) is cracked. If I get your points correctly, the rotors can be cleaned in different ways; aggressive pads or sanding (D/A sander 40 grit?) Will have to do some more reading about the different pad compounds. Definitely don't want a pad that needs to be heated every use, however would like a more aggressive pad than stock. (Even if it tends to "eat" on the rotors a bit over time.) Will post on the progress. Happy Motoring! Que
OK if you have a cracked pad, new pads now not later. If that pad comes apart in a heavy braking situation it might get ugly. As far as sanding, I'd first clean everything with a can of brake cleaner. Then I'd sand the rotors with something less coarse than 40 grit. I'd use a sanding block. If you want a pad with low dust I'd recommend a ceramic pad. Follow the bed in process to the letter & you should be good.
It think you said it was checked but the pulsation sounds like a warp roter. I would dibble check them all. I use Hawk HPS pads.
Make sure you don't have a wheel bearing going bad and get rid of cracked pads. You are not using EBC pads are you? :frown2:
80 grit is what you want, an orbital sander is best. It's unlikely the rotors are warped, that's VERY uncommon. Usually what people call warped rotors are pad deposits.
Yes it is but it does happen. Not a Mini but my wife's Sequoia has don it twice. I like Dave's observation, it may be a wheel bearing.
My SD (diesel) came with smaller Cooper 280mm discs and I was getting serious brake fade problems, so I switched to 294mm S discs - the same calipers are used, just with a different mounting bracket. The S brakes don't feel any better than the non-S ones, but they don't suffer from fade. So the change is not worth doing unless you have fade problems. The difference in size is not obvious, so it's not worth switching either for just appearance reasons (which seems to be most peoples' reason for brake upgrades).
O.K. Ordered a set of Hawk HPS pads. Will clean/sand the rotors as suggested. Thanks for emphasizing my suspicion about the "S" brake upgrade. EBC pads = problems?? Glad I saw your post Dave O. Was about to order EBC's. Don't need more headaches. Again Thanks for all the thoughts and help. Will post on the progress. Que
Pulsation does not reflect on the steering wheel or brake pedal. It acts as the brakes grab more - less as the rotor moves by the pads. (Switching from more friction to less friction in the same rotor-revolution.)
Ok I misunderstood the description. I have used the Hawks for several years and have realy liked them. Good luck
My apologies for not returning back any sooner. Life gets in the way sometimes. All four pads were cracked upon removal! Cleaned/sanded the rotors and installed the new Hawks. Seated them per Hawks web-site instructions. Better, but not great. Under slight pedal pressure, still a pulsation. So I exercised the brakes a bit more, and the rotors turned blue. I know, this time I abused the brakes more than in a normal driving environment. (Instead of the pads being the weak link, now its the rotors.) They had to be bad also before, and now are toast for sure. I am very happy with the pads, for certain. Will upgrade to "S" rotors, in hopes, they can take a bit more abuse. Anyone know of a vendor here, who carries the caliper brackets? For best performance: slotted rotors, not drilled, correct? As always, input is greatly appreciated. Que
Just buy a nice set of Centric Plain High Carbon 125 Series Rotors off Tire Rack. That's what I run all year long and when I am on the Dragon. I drive hard and use my brakes harder. If you want low dust go with the Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads (Premium) The Centric's hold up great :ihih: they will do the job and they are good rotors. Yes I abuse the heck out of them and they can take it. I used to have slotted for a few years but got tired of the sound. They have a purpose bit its really not needed for street driving unless you want the "bling" factor. Don't waist your money on drilled ones they crack and are really only needed on track cars if they don't use slotted rotors. Slotted rotors are good but for how you drive it sounds like it would be a waist of money. For your 2013 MINI Cooper (non-S) the High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor are $45 each for the front and only $32 each for the rear. Here you go:http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=MINI&autoModel=Hardtop&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=Cooper
Yup...centrics are GREAT!! my last set of Zimmerman rotots on the rear were so soft they were groved after a HALF a set of pads (on the rears)...I swapped them out when I did my fronts (had to replace a rear caliper that was sticky)....the high carbon centric are machined VERY nicely...i'd endorse them 100% if you are not needing a bbk.