1st Gen R53 Cooper S Replaced the engine, now won't start

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by jamez, Sep 13, 2012.

  1. jamez

    jamez New Member

    Aug 10, 2012
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    We've replaced the engine and we're trying to get to the first startup.

    2005 MCS R53 manual transmission. Battery's been disabled for 9 months, key's have been sitting. Key FOB unlocks the doors as normal. Key's do not "ping" when brought close to the ignition.

    As far as we can tell all the wiring is connected and solid. Fuses are fine.

    No codes at this point.

    With the key in the ignition and to on, the dash does it's thing like normal. Fuel pump can be heard.

    Key turned to the ON position and we can hear a relay up in the engine bay, but no cranking on the starter. Persuaded the starter and no effect.

    Tried jumping the car, but no different results. Battery could be a culprit, but jumping should have solved that (wouldn't it?)

    Does anyone have any suggestions?
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    I wonder if the code has rolled on you and the ECU is preventing a start since the code may not be matching up.




    Infra
     
  3. jamez

    jamez New Member

    Aug 10, 2012
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    Nathan: thats "one" of the things that tickled my mind right off the bat... but after speaking with Mini/BMW they seem to be strongly indicating that codes not matching "isn't possible" unless there's been parts with the immobilizer that were replaced - stating that nothing changed, key should be read by system and allowing the start.

    Mini/BMW suggested the standard, go back and check and clean all connections, battery, etc. (which I thought I did pretty intensively when re-installing the engine) I've pulled the starter (again) and physically hooked it up to 12v. It works, no problems with the relay or starter. It works fine in a "manually" hooked up situation. I re-cleaned all the contacts associated with the starter, as well as over by the relay block to ensure that the ground cable by the relay block is making good contact. It definitely is.

    At a bit of a loss as to what to check/look for now... I have a well charged marine battery that I tried boosting with, and have directly hooked that up and still no crank over. I'm getting a new battery - just to eliminate 1 more thing from the possibility of it causing a problem.

    Anyone else with ANY ideas? Any thoughts would help immensely. TIA
     
  4. Jabbles

    Jabbles New Member

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    About the only thing I can suggest is letting the key sit in the ignition in the accessory position for a while. Maybe even have a trickle charger hooked up. I know certain model years the key charges in the ignition.
     
  5. jamez

    jamez New Member

    Aug 10, 2012
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    ok. trying the key in acc position for a bit while I look at anything else. BTW, getting full 12+V at the starter. Just seems like "something" is not allowing the system to "turn on" the relay to allow the engine to crank... things used to be sooo simple with engine rebuilds :p
     
  6. rkw

    rkw Well-Known Member

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    The car should ping. I think it indicates an immobilizer issue.

    The battery in the key is only for the remote door lock (not the ignition), and shouldn't matter in this case.
     
  7. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    #7 k-huevo, Sep 13, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2012
    When the MINI battery dies, it will not accept a jump. It can be push started though.

    Be sure to check the ground strap from the body to upper engine mount.
     
  8. jamez

    jamez New Member

    Aug 10, 2012
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    have new battery coming shortly. Hopefully that will work. I've re-checked and re-done all the ground straps and checked power across all of them to verify. Guess the OE battery is toast.. been on a "smart" charger all afternoon and still giving me a "black eye" so although showing over 12V, I think just no umph left in her cells. Fingers crossed a new battery will do the trick!
     
  9. jamez

    jamez New Member

    Aug 10, 2012
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    New battery was no help.

    Does anyone know how to confirm or restart the key 'ping' sound? Neither key pings. Everything is still original (engine just rebuilt).
     
  10. jamez

    jamez New Member

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    Both keys when brought close to ignition (not inserted, but flat against it) will cause the car to "chime" or "ping" or "ding" multiple times - with the driver door open.

    :confused5:
     
  11. rkw

    rkw Well-Known Member

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  12. jamez

    jamez New Member

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    Got it started. It was my fault.
    1. My battery was bad (fixed that earlier)
    2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.

    1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.

    Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
     
  13. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Been there, done that!

    Congrats on getting it started.
     
  14. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    I like an easy fix & a happy ending. :Thumbsup:
     
  15. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

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  16. rkw

    rkw Well-Known Member

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    #16 rkw, Sep 14, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2012
    There is a copy of the BMW Wiring Diagram System online (not the newest, and probably without BMW's permission).

    Just start here and drill down: http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/
    Occasionally you may hit some broken links. The browser must support SVG graphics for the wiring diagrams. The latest versions of Chrome and Firefox, and IE 10 work well. With earlier versions of IE, you may need to install Adobe's SVG plug-in. Use the mouse scroll wheel to zoom in and out, and you can click on hotlinks. If you use Google Docs, make sure the svg webpages open directly in the browser, not in Google Docs.

    There is also a version of the BMW TIS repair manual (only covers 1st generation MINI): http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/
     
  17. countryboyshane

    countryboyshane New Member

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    JACKPOT! Thanks for the link:drool
     

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