Yes, I did a search. Nothing Can anyone tell me proper torque wrench setting for spark plugs? I bought a cooler set and need to install them. Any tips for someone who's never changed plugs before? Is it any more complicated than old plug out/new plug in?
Tip #1.... Do it with a cold engine! Tip #2.... Pull the plug wires by the boot not the wire. Tip #3.... If they are hard coming out, crank them back in a 1/4 turn & then back out. Keep doing that until they are out. Tip #4.... I always use a very tiny bit of anti-seize on the plugs. Some folks choose not to. Tip #5.... I use 21 FT/LB of torque. These tips are for an R50-R53 MINI.
Naturally I am always curious why the cooler spark plugs??? Tip #4 very important...... use anti seize always. Confirm with the **manufacture of the spark plug if there is any specific torque value for their spark plug other wise use BMW/MINI specifications for your year and model.. Factory for 2002-2005 Cooper and S... **Spark Plug to Cylinder Head 27 Nm (20ft-lb)
Yet another tip... When screwing in the new plug, I use a firm straw attached to the top of the plug. It makes it easier to feel the plug screwing in properly without striping it. (Of course, torque it properly with the wrench after finger-tightening it with the straw.)
Very good tip! I use a rubber tube thingymabob that the MAC tool guy gave me years ago. It makes it so much easier to start the plugs back in.
As mentioned in the other thread at the other place, 1st Gen cars spec 20ft-lbs (27NM) of torque for the plugs. I have seen several lively debates on the use of anti-seize mainly centered around side effects such as heat transfer and torque settings. MINI does not spec to use it but many do anyway. I personally use just a tiny bit, unless I think there is still enough on the threads in the head from last time. Wire removal and corrosion tip: - Use a back and forth twisting motion when you grasp the boot to remove the plug wire. Just push straight on for reassembly. - On many cars the terminal at the coil for the #3 wire corrodes. You might want to take the wires off one at a time, and wire brush the terminals. - I reassemble with a dollop (maybe the size of a small pea) of dielectric(Silicone) grease on the coil terminals as well as the spark plug terminal. - Also, I make sure to tighten the Aluminum terminal on the spark plugs, they always seem loose on a new plug.
NGK specifies 30Nm on the box, BMW TIS specifies 27Nm so that gives a range of 20-22 Ft.lbs. I use 22 personally and only a small amount of anti-seize. part of the job of the spark plug is to remove heat from the cylinder. The heat range refers to the amount of heat that the plug can remove, so a colder plug removes more heat, a hotter plug removes less. When we increase the amount of boost (via smaller s/c pulleys) we also increase the amount of heat created, so it needs to be removed to maintain an optimal cylinder temp.
Dan@grassrootsGarage.. about time you started Posting!! Good to know!! Now back to the thread.. Just me...................... Thumper
Depends on the plug......if the plug has a crush washer (most do) then it is about 1/4 turn past finger tight. If it has no crush washer it is about 1/2 turn past finger tight.
Dan@grassrootsGarage does not know me.....yet:lol:! Use advance search my user name topic spark plugs. i.e. among many here and other forums: http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/cooper-s-clubman-s-engine-drivetrain/3825-basic-guide-spark-plugs.html post #4 Been trying to upgrade basic spark plug information for years to MINI performance owners...
So has anyone used these yet? They do look interesting. Not sure why the pics are so big? They came off my iPhone.
I've used them, was not really enamored with them at the cost. Pulled a 10K miles and the looked like crap, went back to a less expensive NGK and happy.
Hmmm....... I've had really good luck with mine. Like them better than the NGK's. Jim Oh! And to stay on topic, 20-22 Ft-Lbs for me, too.