Brakes Wheels 1st Gen Tires Track pads for rear calipers

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by BThayer23, Dec 18, 2010.

  1. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    #1 BThayer23, Dec 18, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
    I know, another track pad thread... But this question is about rear calipers.

    At the last track event of the year, I wore down my last set of track pads, front and rear. My front rotors are just about due, and my rears could stand to be replaced, too. So I'm starting with a fresh slate, and I figure now is a good time to consider all my options. Since I have the TSW calipers up front, I can put pretty much any pad up there, but I'd like to use the same brand in the rear to maintain similar torque curves. The R53 rear caliper is somewhat hard to find pads for, and it seems like each vendor I talk to only sells one brand of track pads. I'm not about to buy a new rear caliper setup just for the pad shape, though.

    I drive a minimally prepped car on star spec street tires, and I'm looking for a pad that will last 4-6 HPDE weekends throughout the year.

    So here's my question: which track pad compounds are available for the R53 rear caliper? Also, if it doesn't really matter that the front and rear match, please feel free to comment on that, too.

    Here's what I've found so far, and I haven't verified all of these outside of checking price lists and part catalogs:

    Carbotech: XP8, XP10 (P/N CT940)
    Cobalt: XR3, XR4 (P/N D940)
    Hawk: DTC-60, DTC-30, HT-10, Blue (P/N HT 445x.610)
    Pagid: n/a
    Performance Friction: 97, 01 (P/N PFC 0940)
    Porterfield: R4 (P/N AP940)


    Thoughts? Ideas? Comments?
     
  2. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

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    I would recommend the Porterfield R4. If you are combining that with the Raybestos ST-43 in the front, you will have a nice split bias. You could, and I have, go with a more aggressive pad in the rear, like the Hawk DTC-60. They were pretty good as well. A little more rear bias with the DTC-60's means you need to be a little more careful on the heavy trail breaking corners, but it is nothing scary.
     
  3. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    #3 k-huevo, Dec 18, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2010
    We've communicated on this issue in regards to the front pads. For a longer lasting rear pad than stock at the track, Hawk HP+.

    At this time PFC only has the Z-compound for the R53 rear. It doesn't have the same torque or bite as HP+, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.
     
  4. Vader

    Vader New Member

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    Over the years that my 04 MCS has been a dedicated track car, I have used either Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellow on the rear. I generally go through 3 sets of front pads to one set of rears. I use Wilwood PolyB pads on the front.
     
  5. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

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    You also have the larger rear rotors correct? Once I installed the TCE larger rear rotors, I also went down in pad aggressiveness to a Hawk HP+. On the stock rotor, I don't think that is enough pad to balance the system. IMHO
     
  6. Alan

    Alan Active Member

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    I used to use the EBC Yellows until we had the episode of one side wearing out on about 4 sets. Then I switched to the HP+. They work well and wear forever paired with TSW BDM BBK running ST-43.

    Next I'm gonna be running the Poly B compound on the BBK with the BP-10s on the rear. I'm trying this cause I now have Willwood GT rotors in the BBK. And yes, that means I have cracked the Coleman "Race" rotors. That's three strikes - you're out for Coleman.
     
  7. Vader

    Vader New Member

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    Oops, yes I do. I forgot about that.
     
  8. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    #8 BThayer23, Dec 19, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
    I've tried ST-43's and they really put some wear on the rotors. I've tried a few sets of XP-12's and they just didn't last very long, 2 or 3 weekends for me. Great feel, but I couldn't keep them cool enough to be happy. I'm mostly just curious what's out there. I'm not expecting a perfect "Goldilocks" solution but curious if there's something I haven't evaluated yet.
     
  9. Todd TCE

    Todd TCE Member

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    Here's my .02 on this rear pad question: forget about putting 'track pads' in there and get a rear rotor kit.

    The problems associated with the MINI is not that is needs more rear brake so much as it needs a bigger heat sink. Any car that carries the inside wheel in the air into a corner has limited gains in braking....the bigger problem I know of is simply overheating of the rotor and thus the caliper causing a boiling of fluid.

    You can solve both these issues; a desire for more torque and heat by a larger rotor- more leverage per psi and more mass to absorb the heat. In all the years I've sold full on front kits I've always stated that anyone doing the rear rotor kit will be fine on oe rear pads or mild street pads. And it's been a good call.


    Tell me what Coleman rotors you're using Alan and I'll see if I can help you out. I use them by the hundreds. My suspicions are not that it's a mfg problem but an app/model problem. And fwiw...before you get taken into some other suppliers notion that they can provide you an alternative please know that Coleman is the primary supplier (ie. mfg) for nearly anyone selling "custom rotors" and such.
     
  10. Alan

    Alan Active Member

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    Todd - You already shipped me a set of Wilwood GT rotors. One DE weekend on them, so too early to tell.
     
  11. Todd TCE

    Todd TCE Member

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    Ahhh! Those were the ones I sent out a month or so back. I totally forgot about those. They should be significantly beefier for your needs.
     
  12. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    I am running XP-10s up front with the R53 JCW caliper (same as R56S). They were marginal for me, overheated and left too many streaks of pad material on the OEM rotors until I installed brake ducts. My ducts exit right into the center of the rotor hat. The red caliper paint has also slowed it's progression from red to burned and black/brown.

    For the rear, I am running XP-8s on stock calipers and rotors. As noted they last 3-4X longer than the fronts.

    Some claim that brake ducts have a pad value of one or two levels. All I know is that my ducts made a difference for my car. I run RBF600 and have never boiled the fluid, even when I was melting/smearing the XP-10s on the rotors.
     
  13. minimark

    minimark Well-Known Member

    Jun 24, 2009
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    XP8s on the rear for me, like them!
     
  14. quikmni

    quikmni Moderator

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    As Todd said stock pads seem to work fine on the rear when using a larger than stock rear rotor. I have TCE 13" BBK on the front with 11.75" rotors on the rear. I have used EBC Green and Hawk HPS on the rear for street and track. For the track I only switch the fronts to Wilwood Poly Bs.
     
  15. Dan@GrassrootsGarage

    Sep 30, 2009
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    Ben, I know you have had some seemingly unusual brake problems. I have set up cars in the past with xp-10 up front and xp-8 in the rear with much success. I also have that Tilton brake fluid here, they are in .25 qt bottles. I will look at it on Monday.
     
  16. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I think that's the takeaway here. I think I have other problems to track down before the pads start acting the way they do for everyone else.
     
  17. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    Finally had a track weekend with no problems. Here's the updated spec list:

    Wilwood 12.2x0.81" GT front rotors, Centric blank rear rotors
    Performance Friction PFC 01 pads front and rear
    Tilton TSR-1 fluid, fresh

    The PFC 01's withstood the heat, and were easy to modulate. The PFC's were uniform throughout the each session the entire weekend (4x25 min, two days) and were bedded in after the first session. The fronts started out with 12mm of pad, and I'll measure them next weekend when I pull the pads to see how much I have left.

    The rear PFC 01's must have been pulled off of the back shelf somewhere. An internet retailer advertised them, and the central warehouse had a few in stock, but it became apparent why nobody else carries them or advertises them. The rears have no anti-rattle clips, and they definitely rattle on the street. Once on the track, it wasn't an issue, but as soon as they cooled off rolling into the pits, the rattle started up again. I haven't gotten a good look at the pad edges yet.

    I was a little hesitant to run no pad bias, but they felt very solid throughout the whole weekend. I used to get squirm with an XP-12/XP-8 combo, but that was completely gone with this setup.

    The TSR-1 fluid was expensive and took 2.5 bottles to flush the system, but it was worth it. And I won't have to open a liter bottle just to bleed the brakes, as they come in 1/4 liter bottles.

    I'm not posting this to tell everyone to go out and replicate my setup, just as another point of reference. If you look hard enough and make enough phone calls, you can usually find what you want.
     
  18. minimark

    minimark Well-Known Member

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    Good info Ben and I'm happy you've finally found your set up.... Been a long road for ya..... :)

    PS: Email and fill me in on the track weekend!
     

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