1st Gen R53 Cooper S URGENT HELP with crank pulley install

Did you read my how-to article? Did you heat the new pulley?

http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/1st-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-3/replacing-the-crank-pulley-101/#axzz1qF2nwRNg

I used the ATI-provided bolt for the install and then, when that hit bottom, I backed it out and used a new MINI crank pulley bolt (with factory loc-tite pre-applied), tightened to 85 ft-lb.

Here's how I stopped my wheel from spinning during the re-install, which will stop the crank from turning with the transmission engaged as you are currently doing. I've got wheel studs, but you can probably reproduce the effect with your lug bolts.

You know... if you only jacked up one wheel (Only the front right - I'd bet you have both front wheels jacked up and on jack stands right now), you would stop the tires/hub from spinning with the front left tire and the pulley wont spin... I'm not 100% sure of it, but it might be worth a shot.

 

Duh! I'm not so bright... I just re-read my own article for the solution!

Have someone get in the driver's seat and step on the brake. That will stop the hub from spinning and, with the transmission engaged as you have it, you won't have this problem (foot off the clutch, transmission in gear)!

Do NOT use the impact wrench for the install. You will need to torque the bolt to the correct spec and if you over tighten and break the bolt (or monkey up the threads) you are gonna have BIG problems.

 

An easier way is to stick a thick screwdriver or drift into the rotor just above the caliper, that will hold it too.

But even better is to make and/or use the right tool to hold the pulley.

If all else fails, read the instructions, right? :biggrin5:

But now that he's got it stuck 1/5 of the way on, can he get it back off without damaging it?

 

I think that's the real question right now... pull it / warm it / try again or just stop the hub from spinning by one of the mechanisms above and then tighten the bolt to spec.

I think that I'd be tempted to see if it will pull back out easily and try it again with heat and a friend on the brakes. I just don't know what pulling a pulley like the ATI does to the internal structure.

 

Jonathan, are you saying the clutch is not holding sufficient clamping force with the rotors locked? If this is the case, then remove the damper and check for gouging from burs, remove with fine sand paper if found. If the clutch is not slipping, then start the wind-up sooner so you'll have greater leverage at the point of break-away.

 

With one front corner on jack stands the other front tire will probably be off the ground or only slightly touching the ground without much weight on it and the tire will most likely spin when you tigthen the bolt.

During the install did you just have the car in gear and nothing holding the brake rotor (screwdriver or brake pads)? If so, try applying the brakes to hold the rotor.

If it is really hard to get on, I would look for something being wrong. Maybe not going on straight, burr on pulley, burr on crankshaft.

You might need to remove the pulley, heat it up, and start the process again.

 

You don't need to heat it. I've never heated one to install, and I did two last week alone.
Have someone hold the brakes and use the bolt to pull it on, then install a new crank bolt and torque it.
I use the factory installer, but you can use the bolt in a pinch.

 

My number one suggestion is to use an appropriate installer tool, OEM preferable, but I'm sure there are rentals that will suffice. Number two if you must use an impact, I suggest a torque stick rated at 65 lb-ft to prevent over-tightening. If you're only turning 1/20th with a ratchet, you're not giving yourself enough room. I suggest 15 inches of 1/2 square drive extension to reach from outside the wheel well for greater turn radius, and at least a 15 inch ratchet or breaker bar for leverage.

 

Thanks for the update. Glad you resolved the issue and got the pulley installed.

 

Does anyone know where to rent or otherwise borrow the tool that stops the crank from turning? Thanks.

 

You could try calling Way at WMW or Chad at Detroit Tuned.:idea:

 

Insert a screwdriver in a brake rotor vein on each side, place in gear.

 

Also can try putting the car in gear and having someone apply the brakes (hard on the brakes). I was able to get the bolt torques with this technique.