1st Gen R53 Cooper S What else should be replaced with a clutch?

You named pretty much everything. Replace throw out bearing but probably doing that with the clutch R&R.

Lots of discussion on MA but here's a simple video of dual mass issue - https://youtu.be/AZYf6ILVqj8

Its the rubber between the flywheel and integrated springs that separate (crack/break). The OEM DM flywheel is expensive. I went with the Valeo SM set up. Its light and works well. It has a lighter feel so not exactly pump and dump. Depends on driving style but I like it.

 

+++++++ on using the Valeo solid flywheel kit - that's definitely the way to go. I don't think the flywheel has a rubber center, it uses springs between the two halves. The front crank pulley has a rubber center tho....which is another thing to look at "while you're in there". If you dropped the subframe and haven't already done so, now is the time to replace your lower control arm bushings - if they're not already toast they will be and it's Oh so much easier to do them out of the car. Also check the ball joints and CV boots, front wheel bearings.....

 

replace the plastic bushings that the clutch fork rotates on, to move the throwout bearing

 

At the risk of repeating myself, I will just go ahead and repeat myself:


I love, and I mean love, the Valeo clutch that MiniDave and I put in my Cooper S three years ago.

The Valeo clutch is so much better than the OEM dual-mass flywheel monstrosity that MINI originally fitted, and which I put up with for 10 years of ownership. That OEM clutch, to its credit, never slipped but using it became increasingly worse and worse over the years. Clutch pedal feel grew much stiffer and the damn thing's bite point on pedal travel moved steadily closer to the floor each year. Besides making the car crap to drive with that clutch, the idiotic dual-mass flywheel developed the infamous Chewbacca shriek. It would actually startle nearby pedestrians as I pulled away from stop signs. Frankly, as you can tell by my tone, I was very unhappy with the OEM clutch/flywheel and it tainted my ownership and driving experience with my MINI. I remember coming back from vacation where I had become accustomed to driving a rental Peugeot for a couple of weeks and then climbing into my MINI and being disgusted with how bad the MINI’s clutch felt compared to the clutch in the Peugeot.

My attitude toward my MINI changed three years ago. Immediately after driving out of the garage with my new Valeo flywheel and clutch fitted, I was more than delighted. My MINI was transformed. I remember telling MiniDave at the time that my MINI shifted like a Honda (and I consider that a huge compliment). The clutch feel is perfect - light and progressive, with a wonderful bite point. There is no increased NVH as a result of losing the OEM dual-mass flywheel and going with the Valeo's conventional flywheel. The engine idles just as smoothly, there is no judder, no shaking --- nothing negative. This is the single most important change I've made to my MINI and I love it. I highly recommend the Valeo clutch.

Much cheaper than OEM and much better too.

 

Wow. I've never replaced a clutch in my 30 years of manual driving, but I may just put on a valeo due to this ringing endorsement. If its anything like ditching the run craps, I'm in

 

Mini on man. You're now up tight, out of sight, and in the groove. jason

 

The throw out bearing guide tube should be replaced, as well as having a slave cyl on hand. other than that. some cleaners to clean it up all really good, red lock tight, torque wrench, and lots of time.

 

Since you'll be dropping the subframe for the clutch install, probably makes sense to replace the front sway bar bushings....they are cheap, wear out before 100k, and are easy to access with the subframe out.

 

replace the PS lines if they even show remote signs of leaking.
And control arm bushings if never done.
Crank Trigger O ring is another good one.

 

You could go on to rebuild the entire front suspension, belt drive, and all the fluids (which wouldn't be a bad idea) but don't replace anything that doesn't need to be replaced is the best answer you can give.

There are supporting components that should be replaced while doing certain jobs, but don't assume that because the trans will be out that you should replace the axles.

If the boots on the axles haven't been torn for years and are now full of rust and decay then I might say replace the axles, but if they are still sealed and don't have any free play to them I wouldn't recommend spending that money.

As others stated for the clutch:
Throw out bearing guide tube

Input seal (while they don't leak too often, it's cheap and easy to install)

Rear main seal

Have a slave cylinder on hand with quality brake fluid, there's a chance you'll need these.

The shift counter weight on the trans has bushings that will wear and cause sloppy gear changes as well as play in the shifter.

There is also a small black square guide that you can either flip 90* to get a "new" surface or buy a new one, this will also cause sloppy or loose shift feeling.

One of the larger jobs you could do while this is undertaken is to replace the control arm bushings with Powerflex bushings, cut the stock crimp clamps off the PS lines and use worm clamps to stop leaks from the connections at the reservoir and PS pump.

Cleaning the cranks sensor up and sealing it with RTV is a quick and easy job to fix a common oil leak on these cars.

If you're going to do oil cooler seals, I would say to go the extra mile and replace the oil filter housing seal as well as it's only 3 bolts and leaks just as commonly as the cooler seals.

 

Limited slip diff