1st Gen R53 Cooper S Wheel Speed Sensors (aka Pulse Generators)

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by mini_racer, Sep 10, 2012.

  1. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    So, I am looking for opinions on whether to replace with OEM for the big bucks( ~$120), or maybe aftermarket (~$50).

    Is this one of those items to best with with OEM?
     
  2. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: I don't know but some one will soon be along with that info:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  3. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Sure yours is really bad? Because mine have "failed" a few times...took them out, cleaned them, unplugged, cleaned contacts, reconnected and all was well...
     
  4. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    #4 mini_racer, Sep 10, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012
    Fair question.
    The code says it is bad, but when I took it out to inspect it was barely dirty. It came out really easy too, after a quick clean with a dry paper towel it looked pretty much like new, but still threw a code.
    Dirty
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347328518.530225.jpg

    And then cleaned
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347328576.355804.jpg

    Not really much difference.

    Is there a way to electrically test these things? What are they supposed to do when the wheel is spinning?
     
  5. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Oh and BTW, when I take the blue connector apart on mine it looks like it is brand new in there. It is definitely hermetically sealed, how could yours have possibly been dirty???
     
  6. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Looked like the contacts had just gotten a little chalky or something. I cleaned them up with electronic contact cleaner and plugged it back in, using a bit of dielectric grease on the seals. And VOILA... worked. Have done this 2-3 times with various sensors over the last 6 years, worked every time.
     
  7. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    By the way, if you DO decide you need a new one, I personally would buy OEM, knowing how finicky the MINI is with these sensors. It should be a nice safe stupid part where you could buy aftermarket... but I wouldn't.

    IMBM parts has them for about $98
     
  8. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the lead Paul, I will keep that in mind. BTW, when remedied, these codes will clear themselves after a few ignition cycles right? I am hoping they are not any of those hard codes.
     
  9. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    I expect they would, but not 100 sure. I always use a code reader to clear my codes.
     
  10. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    #10 mini_racer, Sep 11, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
    You know, I might be 'chasing a ghost' here.
    This all started with the ABS module spazzing out on the track in late June in a heat related failure. I have confirmed I am getting the 5DF5 (ABS Control Internal Failure) code, and have been since late June.

    When not on the track at max temp, typically all is well, no dash lights and fully functioning everything.

    Very recently I started to get this wheel speed sensor code, and so now I am going after that first as it is an easy fix.

    Thinking about this a little more....It is certainly possible that my bad ABS module is continuing to degrade and the root of the Wheel Speed Sensor code.

    I think I will focus on that damn ABS module first and get that remedied, and then see what I get on the wheel sensors.
     
  11. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Ok ABS module swapped out and that took care of the 5DF5 internal fault code.

    I still did get weird intermittent LF wheel speed sensor issues. It seemed to like throwing a code on a hard left turn, swapped that out as well with a VDO unit and all is finally well, or at least there are no codes at the moment.

    Next weekend's track adventure will be the real test.
     
  12. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Besides the codes that were being thrown has there been any other effect from this. Like is braking being applied by the system in mid corner to compensate?
     
  13. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    All ABS faults/codes that are actively showing the dash lights result in a dead ABS system. You will still have normal braking function, just no ABS at all.

    With good tires on dry pavement and normal street driving this is not an issue and you have some time to remedy.

    For my specific case the wheel speed sensor issue was intermittent so when the dash lights were on I knew ABS was off. I was getting what is referred to as the trifecta dash lights, this seems to be the classic tell of a wheel speed sensor problem and actual codes provide the additional detail of which wheel.

    To answer your question directly.... No, additional braking was not being applied and I do not think that is possible. ABS faults result in no ABS, not more ABS being activated randomly or over aggressively.
     
  14. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #14 Metalman, Sep 23, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2012
    This kind of reminds me of similar ABS problems I had with a Volvo 740 I had years ago...
    From time to time I would need to pull the front Hall sensor and wipe off rust particles that would accumulate on the head of the sensor. The other part of the system was a "toothed" wheel inside the front wheel knuckle that was the source of the random rust particles. Had to do this on a yearly basis after the cadmium coating corroded off the trigger wheel. Of course my model year Volvo didn't have the sophisticated codes that are present today. After a cleanup.... All was fine for another year....
     
  15. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Most if not all vehicles do it the same way with a Hall effect transducer as the sensor picking up a magnetism change from a toothed reluctor wheel mounted on the shaft/axle/etc.
    This wheel will have one spot with a missing tooth or a larger gap between teeth thus allowing the transducer to 'see' a change.

    These days a reluctor wheel failure is very rare.

    And yeah, as Paul mentioned earlier 99% of the time on our cars a simple removal and clean is all that is required to fix.
     
  16. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Glad to hear you got this sorted. The trifecta can be maddening.... Lived through it for a long time before I learned to clean the sensors periodically.
     

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