1st Gen R53 Cooper S Work to be done

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by yellowbritishrocket, Jan 3, 2010.

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  1. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

    May 16, 2009
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    while im deployed to the middle east my MCS is gonna get some serious work done...with about 140k miles on her id rather bite the bullet now and have some preventative maintenence done rather than pay for it when parts start to go

    here is a run down
    New clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder (going to have all the shaft seals replaced while its apart)
    new crank pulley
    supercharger rebuild(done by engineers anonymous in georgia...nothing major just the snout bearings and seals replaced plus the fluid changed also if they do the work they warranty it as well)
    oil pan gasket(prolly gonna get the RMW oil pick up part too)
    id like to have all the rubber bushings replaced with powerflex ones

    is there anything else that can be done or looked at or replaced that might go since she will be torn apart...the work is gonna be handled by a local shop near where my parents live in indiana...the shop is pretty much all bmw racing and performance plus the head mechanic is a friend of the family and has worked on all of our european cars(VW's/MINIs) for years...

    this is one of the few times that any sort of work can be done considering my mini is also my DD and its a pain to put her down for any extended work
     
  2. istara

    istara New Member

    May 21, 2009
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    I'm in a similar boat with my car, so I'll be curious to see what other suggestions you might get. I have a massive oil leak from the rear main seal (I'm pretty sure) that I was dumb enough not to look at when I had the trans out only a few months ago. Are you going with the stock clutch? I'm trying to decide now if I just may as well change mine out for something lighter. Decisions, decisions..
     
  3. Mike

    Mike New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    At 140K, there are probably oil leaks at several sensors (cam position sensor and crank position sensor come to mind). Replacing those sensors, or at least replacing the o-rings on them, is a good idea. They are not under any pressure, so the leak will never be huge, but it will get to be drippy eventually.
     
  4. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

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    im going the route of a clutchmaster stage 4 with a lightened steel flywheel...not as light as the aluminum one so it should cut down on the chatter...i have plans for the engine to boost the power up some more so im cutting out the necessity of having to install a stronger clutch after the bump up in power....plus from what i heard the stage 2/3 ones have a tendency to crap out and glaze over too easily so im taking jan's advice on this
     
  5. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

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    ill add that to the list of things to check tks drmike...oh yea...are those sensors visible in the engine back or does something have to be removed because if nothing else i can have my dad take a peek under the bonnet to see if anything is leaking or looks like its wet around the seal
     
  6. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Personally I'd add a replacement bypass valve and replacement belt tensioner to the list at that mileage. I've already done both at half that mileage. Neither is expensive while things are already apart.
     
  7. Mike

    Mike New Member

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    Both are visible with the car in one piece, but not accessible.

    Crank angle sensor: on the right side of the block (towards the front of the car) down low, about 4 inches above the top of the oil pan. You can see it from under the car with the splash guard removed. You'll need a flashlight.

    Cam angle sensor: at the front of the head (passenger side of the car). You might see something with a flashlight and/or a mirror, but it's tough to get a good view.

    In both places, look for black goo or an oil slick.
     
  8. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

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    blimey i actually replaced my bypass valve with a DT BPV at about 70k miles
     
  9. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Cool. I wonder what the longevity of the DT valve is, compared to OEM?
     
  10. Detroit Tuned

    Detroit Tuned Well-Known Member
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    May 5, 2009
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    Better as our springs don't break. to date i have never had anyone call me and tell me there's went bad.
     
  11. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    I haven't heard of any DT BPV failures, either. Just wondering if, eventually, the spring is likely to fatigue given the constant use nature of this part... You get to make more money Chad if you recommend a preventative replacement interval. ;-)
     
  12. Detroit Tuned

    Detroit Tuned Well-Known Member
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    haha, yeah but not so honest..lol i don't ever think it will have cause for alarm as the spring wire dia is very large. but the casting could crack still and cause it to stick open or shut, but that is still really rare.
     
  13. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Good answer! I like not replacing the BPV any time soon. :cornut:
     
  14. yellowbritishrocket

    yellowbritishrocket Well-Known Member

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    me either....that sucker was a ***** to replace lol...the whole time im doing it im thinking....dont break the plastic tube....dont break the plastic tube....
     
  15. MightyStripes

    MightyStripes New Member
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    Great info for everyone here! I would have never thought so many things would need to be looked at on a German built car at that milage!
    My Mini has never leaked anything ever and its got 95,000 on it when I sold it. :)
     
  16. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Not built in Germany............................ yet :frown2:
     

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