Over the past week or two, I've noticed my 6spd r53 begin to not want to go into gear and through some basic diagnostic determined that the clutch and or flywheel and possibly throw out bearing were on their way out. I tore the mini down to better examine the clutch and flywheel and found that the clutch side of the factory flywheel can rotate a bit before the engine side of the flywheel will move. Presuming that it is bad and I need a new clutch/flywheel assembly, would you guys/gals recommend the valeo single mass conversion kit or a Luk dual mass kit. How much more NVH does the valeo kit have? Thanks in advance for any input and advice.
I recommend the conversion if your flywheel is failing. If you hear a chirping sound when you start from a dead stop in 1st gear, then the flywheel is jammed and you'll need to address it. If your flywheel is still good (after visual inspection), I recommend a stock replacement (Luk or Valeo) clutch kit. Also replace the guide tube, and budget for trans fluid. We charge $950 for the labor and the parts are a little over $300. While you're at it, If you haven't done polyurethane control arm bushings, do them at the same time. There's labor efficiency there. Eric
How much addition NVH does the valeo kit add? Do you see many replace a failed dmf with a new dmf, or is that like asking to tear your MINI down again?
I had the control arm bushings replaced with factory units 2 years ago. Is it still worth going to poly bushings now or would you wait for these to wear out?
I didn't notice any added NVH with the valeo kit but the engagement was noticeably different. The valeo wasn't as dampened as the dual mass. Not bad just some getting used too.
Noticeably different in what way? Simply lighter or different in another way? Not as dampened in regard to pedal feel or vibration?
I've done several of the Valeo solid flywheel clutches for club members and every one I've done is extremely happy with it....they say they can't tell any difference in NVH, and the clutch is lighter and engages smoother - so no complaints of any kind.
similar to minidave comment. smooth for me equals quick to engage. I'm happy with it and would do the entire thing again. Actually I think I'd rather change out the clutch than repeat R&R door regulator and motor -- man thats a real PITA. :mad2:
The best/worst comment I got was that it feels like a Honda clutch, light, easy to modulate and smooth engagement.
Thanks guys! Went ahead and ordered it and hope to put it in this weekend. Any things to watch for or is it pretty straight forward? Also, is they a good way to check the clutch hydraulic system for weakness or air so as not to have a potentially weak part harm my new clutch...... (I've been told the slave cylinder is common failure item but not yet had to replace one,knock on wood .)
I think you'll be happy with the Valeo kit as it's a great kit for the R53. For the clutch hydraulics. DON'T disconnect it when you do the job. Just unbolt it from the trans hang it out the way and MAKE SURE your buddy doesn't push the pedal. It will save you a ton of time not having to bleed it.
Thanks! The install was pretty straight forward and very reasonable. I made sure not to touch the clutch peddle nor to disconnect the slave cylinder. So far I'm really liking it. I'm still breaking it in of course, but it's very smooth, predictable, no irritating noises, little to no added vibrarion, ect.... The peddle is very light compared to a worn oem, but it is very nice. Thanks for the great advise! Now to decide on struts....!