Removing the sub frame, bumper cover, bumper, and placing the radiator support in service mode (or removal) is required to perform clutch replacement and/or LSD & ATB differential installation. Visit Chad Miller's how-to for control arm bushing replacement for sub frame and bumper cover/bumper removal. http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/2nd-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-4/r56-alta-positive-steering-response-system-psrs-15/
On some models like the JCW, the entire exhaust must be removed before the sub frame can be lowered.
See R56 service mode placement http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/2nd-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-4/placing-2nd-gen-minis-into-service-mode-83/#axzz25vATsNT4 for extending the front end.
This is intended as an overview, not a detailed how-to. Mechanical skills, reasoning (problem solving) abilities, and a full compliment of mechanic's tools are needed for these tasks. Some tool identifications, procedures, and torque values are omitted for brevity. E-8, E-12, T-55, T-27, and T-25 Torx sockets are a few of the out-of-the-ordinary tools required.
Disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU connectors, remove the ECU from the bracket and store safely.
Remove the air box, output hose (tube on JCW), and fresh air intake tube; directly below on the shifter mechanism, slide the shift cable end keepers rearward.
Disconnect the shift cable ends.
Unclip the cable retainer by spreading ear tabs apart with a large flat-blade screwdriver while lifting the cable upward.
Disconnect the reverse gear sensor connector on the top of the gear box.
Disconnect the noise maker from the intake manifold.
There are two bolts holding the turbo's cooling pump, the bracket is located beneath the oil filter canister.
Place the front end in service mode or remove the radiator support completely to access the bolts. Disconnect the connectors also.
Remove the drive axles and starter. One of the three starter bolts is located on the front of the bell housing.
To release the driver's side axle, a pry-bar is inserted behind the tripod joint, a piece of wood is placed on the transmission case to act as protector & fulcrum, and abrupt force is applied to the bar to release the axle's circlip lock. Hopefully a huge bar like this one won't be needed to dislodge yours.
Remove the nuts holding the clutch slave and pull the line out of its transmission bracket, position the slave out of the way and secure.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack, lift, or dolly, be sure to secure it well.
Loosen the nut on the right side engine mount.
Unbolt the fuse box and bracket.
With the transmission supported securely, loosen the transmission damper mount bolt, and remove the transmission mount bracket bolts.
Lower the transmission and engine watching for possible snags. When the transmission is at angle sufficient to clear the frame rail, support the engine oil pan.
Remove the mounting bolts detaching the transmission and wiggle free. Pull away far enough the clear the input shaft from the pressure plate, and lower the case.
Move the gear box to a work area large enough for the two case halves.
Unscrew the pressure plate bolts in a cross pattern in stages.
Torx bolts in the R56 flywheel hub are T-55, remove in a cross pattern.
Note the crankshaft dowel that fits in a corresponding hole on the back of the flywheel.
A long pry bar can be used to prevent a new flywheel from turning while applying torque to the crankshaft & pressure plate bolts.
Flywheel to crankshaft bolts on the R56 are single use torque to yield. The first torque stage is 6 ft-lb, second is 22 ft-lb, followed be a torque angle of 90 degrees. In lieu of a torque angle meter or torque wrench with that measuring function, a template can be made from card stock. Cut an appropriate radius for the bolt head's circumference where the card corner touched the bolt's center axis; use card edges to trace angle marks.
Apply a mark on the bolt head aligning with the start point. Tighten the bolt, once the bolt's mark reaches the second line, the torque angle is achieved.
When installing an OS Giken clutch kit, the flywheel bolts may need to be shortened. Measure the distance a flywheel bolt extends from the rear of the OEM flywheel and compare to the amount it extends from the rear of the OS Giken, machine or cut to match OEM bolt extension length.
If installing an OS Giken clutch release bearing with OS clutch kit on an R56, position the snap ring end toward the release arm opening to ensure full range of motion.
If you don't have a conventional clutch disc alignment tool, a deep 9/16ths socket on the end of an extension works just fine.
Before separating the two halves of the gear box for a differential installation, wrap the intake shaft to protect the shaft seal when removing and replacing the bearing race side.
New bearings (LM501349) are needed for a replacement differential. OS Giken's Super Lock LSD is shown in this install. I'm using a half inch drive 36mm socket to press the inner bearing race without contacting the cage.
After removing the original differential and its ring gear, clean the bolt threads to remove old threadlocker, degrease the bolts, ring gear bolt holes, and differential threads.
Attach the ring gear and torque to 30 ft-lb in a cross pattern for the first stage, applying a QC mark on each bolt as you go.
Remove bolts in a cross pattern one at a time, apply red thread locker, and torque to 65 ft-lb. QC mark each bolt a second time upon completion.
Apply assembly lube to bearings before returning new differential to gear case.
Squeeze a thin bead of anaerobic flange sealant (PX #51531) on one gear case flange before joining the two halves of the transmission. I take an extra step spreading it evenly, removing excess before joining, to avoid extra sealant squishing into the inner gear case. Torque the case bolts to 27 ft-lb from middle to end in a circular sequence.
Reinstall in reverse sequence; transmission to engine 28 ft-lb, starter to engine 15 ft-lb.