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The wheel well wasn't removed either. Just the radiator hose over the alternator remove belt and bolts. It was easy to me. Again took me longer to...
I've got an r53 but helped another r50 owner R&R their alternator. I don't recall having to remove the intake manifold. I had to drain the fluid...
not mention the "volume control" is on the floor, far right.
Wow... need to digest this one... Speechless. 2nd the others. Glad you're ok Paul. Lot of gen1 verts available around Winston needing a...
like listening to fingers across a chalk board... for 10min. Awesome. :frown5:
for a gen 1, R53 Engine oil drain plug to oil pan: 25Nm (18ft-lbs) Cover to oil filter housing: 25Nm (18ft-lbs) I use 98 ft-lbs +/-2 on OEM lug...
I'm going to need to drive down your way and check this out -- I missed the dragon.
It covers r50,53,52:wink:
and ditch the Chilton... and get one of these - MINI Repair Manual - MINI Cooper, MINI Cooper S: 2002-2006 Â -Â Bentley Publishers - Repair...
check 5A fuse F39 too - drivers side fuse box....
Probably low fluid condition. Or coincidental. I can't image replacing a leaking T-connector would keep the engine from heating to operating temp....
Yea thats plenty of time for engine temp to reach operating. I'd check thermostat as a failed sensor is less likely (I could be wrong). Or the...
when was the thermostat last replaced? could be stuck open not allowing the coolant to warm up. How long did you let it run? -- mile or so may not...
FWIW my Way Motor Works 15% pulley is ~55.56mm in diameter. Never seen a pulley like that before. The stocker I took off mine was hollow w/ a...
Oil test/comparision - interesting read B/c I just love feeding the bears when the sign says not too. Again no Meth -- sorry Dave...
I had to replace one those small diameter hoses in that rat nest. Like you it was tough. Had to pull out the airbox to get any leverage to...
The trouble with MINI is its full of Gen1s The problem with Scotland - Braveheart - YouTube This must be a ploy to rid the world of Gen1s. The...
Not certain this would be useful but here's the W10/W11 rear circuit diagram_WIRING. Look bottom right corner for the back-up circuit.
Were you able to test the alternator? And with the pump removed (circuit wise) does the problem still exist?
I'd leave the pump out of the circuit and start eliminating things. Might be worth testing the alternator at a local auto place - auto zone, etc....