Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: Öhlins coilovers - for MINI

  1. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    Here is a link to the Carrozzeria site that gives a little more info on the DFV setup.

    It is in Japanese, but for those of us that like pictures, it is still informative.
    Look about half to 2/3rds down the page.

    Please see next post. It will be a write-up that I lifted off of, well, I can't remember now. I apologize to the writer in advance.
     
  2. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    Again, I lifted it from a site - a while ago.

     
  3. Tüls

    Tüls New Member

    Apr 3, 2009
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    Öhlins Rule, period. Had em on my Duc... they were epic! Cant wait to get a set.
     
  4. Rally

    Rally New Member
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    May 5, 2009
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    That's crazy...I just had upper mounts custom machined just like those for my suspension (bearing on top though).:lol:

    Ohlins :Thumbsup:
     
  5. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    depending on overall length and threaded portion overlap, I think it would be possible to convert these to three way by just adding an additional lockring. Here's a pic of mine for the STI for comparison:

    photo3-5.jpg

    My fronts have camber plates with adjusters inside the bottom (inverted). The rear has extensions up top to adjust (I have access to them inside unlike the MINI).

    I had mine dyno'ed on a Roehrig by RoadRaceTech.com - if I can only get them to email me the files, I'll have them. Good news was that the adjustors worked throughout the range of 25 clicks (this isn't necessarily true for all coilovers...even brand name ones, from what RRT told me. The # of clicks is usually a marketing feature, not an actual one :D ).

    Did your's come with any metal washers for relieving spring movement? If not, be sure to check your lockrings regularly. My buddy has a set and his loosened up. We had these custom up perches made that integrate an E46 M3 sealed bearing. I had them powdercoated to match...shown next to Ohlins lockring:

    photo27.jpg
     
  6. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    #7 PGT, Jun 9, 2009
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2009
    I got this doc off Carozzeria's site awhile back, in case anybody is interested (a bit more info than the link above) :cornut:

    edit - didn't work b/c it's too big. let's try another way
     

    Attached Files:

  7. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    thx to Nathan for upping the cap
     
  8. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    Ah, now see, you got camber plates.... and the threaded bodies..... :drool: :lol:
    Just kidding. I thought about having the original plates machined and sourcing a pillow-ball, but found the BC ones instead.

    No washers. I have had them off a few times (mainly when I was changing springs) and they were never loose. The cinch up very tight.

    Nice custom pieces!

     
  9. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    I also see the MINI app doesn't include rear tophats. A shame. The OEM ones cost $220....meaning it's not cost effective to buy a spare set to keep your OEM set intact for simple swap outs.

    You might want to get the MINIMadness urethane inserts for the rear tophats...the stock foam bushings are VERY squishy. No real NVH that I could tell on my MINI (granted, the RMW exhaust I had was LOUD).

    [​IMG]
     
  10. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    That's a :crazy: price for a some stamped steel.

    I'll definitely look to get some of the poly bushings. Didn't even know of those.
    It's ok for now, but will keep them on "the list".

    Right now, i'm dealing with the end links rubbing/touching the trailing arms. The Alta bar that I have was one of the 1st produced after the 2 to 3 hole conversion. Gah, has it been that long? :lol: The side motion retainers allow it to move side to side a little too much. This was not an issue until I had to back off on the 22mm from the result of the increased front neg. camber.
     
  11. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    those bushings are pricey, but the only ones out there that I'm aware of. The stock ones allow QUITE a bit of movement as evidenced by my hours of trying to cut holes to allow the adjustor cables for the Cross coilovers to come up to the boot. The position of the tops unloaded is a good inch different than when the car is on the ground. :mad2:
     
  12. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    I was doing a random search on some new KYB plug-and-play strut/spring combos and came across this:

    SM5444 - MINI rear strut mount - $25.42.

    Tire Rack stocks them - if this is indeed an aftermarket upper mount from KYB, they're 85% cheaper than OEM.
     
  13. Ryephile

    Ryephile New Member

    Apr 9, 2009
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    One month later:

    How are the Ohlins performing? I have a few questions regarding them. Did you put the BC top hats on them? Are they any shorter overall than stock [like KW's]? I can't seem to find any online info regarding adjustment on the DFV setup; do they have compression and rebound adjustment or is that not really applicable anymore?

    Thanks,
    Ryan
     
  14. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    A month? Already? :D

    Yeah, I'm still enjoying them. Still waiting on parts to get in so I haven't been driving it the past couple weeks. After I do my clutch and flywheel (that I am still waiting on) , I am going to re-evaluate the spring values - again. They just seem a little soft.
    In addition to, I found the orig. install sheets. Since they were in all Japanese, I didn't pay any attn. to them. After a closer look a few days ago, the springs are supposed to have some pre-load on them. So, I am going to take that into account when my re-eval. begins. Reset and try again.

    Moving on. I agree there is little data about the DFV setup. The links (and inserted paragraph) at the top of the post are about it. The pics explain more than anything.

    They are single adjustable (one knob). All on the bottom, thank goodness. No hole drilling.

    I wish that I had taken some measurements before installing, but yes, I think that they are a little shorter than stock. The travel is very similar to stock, but I'm not sure exactly how close. Again, I should have taken some numbers.

    The fronts come with a machined plate with spherical bearing in it. Not camber adjustable. I took some measurements from them and found an old Megan racing camber plate from way back and they matched. How cool, right? Right. I didn't want the red Megan plates, so I contacted BC's re-seller in FL, Import Image, and they sold me some plates. They are a little off on the color match, but.... they work.

    The rears re-use the stock hardware, but I have had no issues. Like PGT said, the poly bushings should firm it up quite nicely.
     
  15. Ryephile

    Ryephile New Member

    Apr 9, 2009
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    Thanks for the tidbits. It sounds like I'll have to give Ohlins a call and see if they're willing to offer any specs.

    Regarding your spring rates; I agree they are soft [assuming stock weight MINI]. Going up to 7kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear would be more appropriate for fast street, or go with 8kg/mm front and 7kg/mm rear for more track oriented [assuming a 22mm rear sway bar].

    Cheers,
    Ryan
     
  16. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    That's what I was thinkin too.
    I've got the 7kg for the fronts already, but need to get a pair of 6kg for the rear.
    I do have a 22mm rear bar so that should work nicely.

    :: beer mugs ::
     
  17. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    More info for Ryan... & all

    Take a look at the scanned sheets. As you can see, they are almost all in Japanese. As I do not read, nor speak it, these were disregarded/neglected very quickly. (Who needs the instructions, right?)

    After a suggestion from someone that there should be some measurements on there, I dug them up and looked again.

    There are measurements on page 5 and 6 that give length. It may not exactly what you looking for but, better than nothing.

    Also, there were specs for spring pre-load. As the sheets were neglected, so were the pre-loads. When installed, they were set at, "keep the spring from moving/rattling" - maybe a couple mm's. After changing this on Sat., I took a spin to run-in the cam. Wow, cool. Definitely not as soft. More firm and solid.

    I am going to re-evaluate the rates after taking some of the roads that I noticed everything being a little weird on.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

    May 13, 2009
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    Update on the pre-load situation. Still better. A lot more "composed", or "behaved".

    I think the rates are ok where they are. Unless I get into some rough, hole laden asphalt, things are good.

    Now, I have some questions for people that are smarter than me.

    As you can put together in this thread and others, you know the gist of my susp. setup.

    Alta 22mm rsb, 3 hole - in the softest. Stock front bar. Front camber plates. Rear LCAs. 6kg/mm, front and 5kg/mm, rear springs.
    Now, while the car is lowered, it is not dropped. As stated in the literature attached, the avg lowering is 20mm front and 25mm rear. That is very close to what it is now - within a few mm.

    Moving on. Here is what I am picking your brains about. After doing an alignment on the car, it feels a tad tail happy.
    Here are the specs:
    Front: -1.5 camber (both sides) and 0, to a breath of toe-in.
    Rear: -1.1 camber and 16th of toe-in.

    My thought is this, if I have this combo of spring rates and camber mixed together, do I really need a 22mm rear bar? Would it be better to step down to the Whiteline 20mm? Or even a 19mm? Should I just get used to the new feel and adjust my driving around it?

    This MINI is on the street mainly, with a trip to the twisties fairly regular, wo we'll see where this goes. Thanks everyone.
     
  19. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

    Jun 12, 2009
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    Does it feel "tail happy" during turn in or mid-corner? It looks like you could add some rear negative camber and balance the car that way. I'm surprised you're not running something like -2.0 front and -1.4 rear. The MINI seems to handle better with aggressive front camber to compensate for camber gain during cornering. Also, how does the car feel on slalom-type curves where you're going back to back?
     
  20. theCapn

    theCapn New Member

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    #21 theCapn, Aug 14, 2009
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2009
    I have not gotten on any slalom type area (actual cones, etc), but I have done the "tire cleaning move" at about 30-35mph (on flat road), and it feels ok there. Fairly neutral, but quick to react.

    But, to answer your question, yes it's more mid-turn. After entering the turn, and committing to a line, it feels as if the front is stuck and the rear is saying ok, i'm not able to hold the line. I know rotation is good, but not when you've got a cement curb at the edge of the road that is eye-ing your rear wheel. :D

    This has happened after increasing the neg camber in the front, from -1-ish to -1.5. I re-aligned after doing the pre-load mentioned above. Rear dropped from -1.3 to -1.1. After gathering lots and lots and lots of different setup info from various people and their driving scenarios, this what I settled on. However, there was not a lot of mention of what rsb was mixed in with the various setups.

    I'm guessing that the I may be putting too much effort into the front and am having to back off a little now, because of the extra front bite.?.?