Brakes Wheels 2nd Gen Tires Most liked posts in thread: 14 to 12mm Stud Conversion HELP

Yes, that's correct. The red loctite does most of the work. 9 ft/lbs is basically hand tight. Red loctite will not come loose without heat.

As such, make sure the hub threads are very clean and dry. When I installed my studs, I removed the calipers and rotors and scrubbed the holes with both a brass and nylon brush, along with a few sprays of brake cleaner. Paper towel to dry, and wait a few minutes for any leftover brake cleaner to evaporate. Then apply a bead all the way around the first couple threads on the stud. Thread it in, out, and back in again to coat all the threads, and tighten to spec. The more time you can give the loctite to cure, the better. It sets in 10 minutes and cures fully in 24 hours.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf

 

I'm gonna go on a limb here and say thread is answered and closed

Ben is in the house!

 

I always ran 88 ft/lbs on my 14mm TSW studs ...

 

I don't know. That's a good question.

The torque you apply to the nut stretches the bolt and creates a tension that clamps the wheel to the hub. Static friction created by this tension holds the car up, so you have to create enough tension in the bolt to create adequate static friction. The torque basically measures how much you're stretching the bolt, but you need more force for bigger bolts. It's 120 N-m for 12mm bolts and 140 N-m for 14mm bolts, but I don't know which one you'd use for 12-14 conversion kits. Call Way at WMW or one of the other guys that sells those kits, they'd know.

 

Been running studs on track since the first track day with the MINI, never an issue. Always check torque before the next session. Torque mine to 83 ft/lbs

 

Trust the red loctite. It's powerful stuff. 8 ft-lbs is nothing - hand tight is usually about 20 ft-lbs - but I've seen that spec several times, so it's not like somebody's making that number up.

I've heard way more stories of bolts coming loose on the track than nuts. And everyone that loosened a bolt switched to studs successfully.

Sounds like you torque the studs according to the 12mm recommendation, which makes sense if the majority of the stud shaft is 12mm in diameter.

 

Just check em when your at the track you'll be fine. Plus you'll get warning before the wheel just comes off. They don't just all of a sudden fly off, you'll get alot of vibration first.

 

A friend was vintage racing an MGA with wire wheels. He was rounding a corner and a wire wheel shot past him, he thought, "Some poor s.o.b. just lost a wheel!" As he came into the straight, his inside rear of the car came crashing down. Turned out he was the "poor s.o.b." lol

He had accidentally put a left side splined hub and knock off on the right rear side of the car, the knock off undid itself and the wheel flew off.

So, it can happen suddenly, but probably not with modern cars.

Dave

 

I have the TSW M14 studs and their instructions was what you did with the lock tight and the nuts go on at 84 ft lbs. Been running them for almost two years.

 

Then some jackass posts this.....

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv4m41viy4I]YouTube - RX7 wheels fall off[/ame]

 

Betcha Redbeard etal won't forget their torque wrenches when they are packing up for the next HPDE/AutoX!

 

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha

 

LOL....... That's funny.
Musta used the blue stuff.

 

I cannot find the instructions but I recall torquing to 15 or 18 ft lb using red loctite. I torque the nuts to 84 ft lbs. No problem after many wheel removal and installs plus a few Auto-Xs.

 

Experience works wonders....

whos guilty?

<-----------------this guy